refuge connect to wet/dry

sly

sly

Active Member
Originally Posted by Hurt
Not unless you just want a WET filter...without the DRY. If you put the bulkhead above the bioballs, they will be completely submerged and of course you will just have a WET filter.
I think you missed what I said. I worded it very carefully... I said put the hole at the top of the water level. Meaning, the level the water rises to in the sump is the height he should make his hole. That way the water starts to spill into the bulkhead as the water level rises. I never said for him to put it at the top of the wet/dry...
 
hurt

hurt

Active Member

Originally Posted by Sly
I think you missed what I said. I worded it very carefully... I said put the hole at the top of the water level. Meaning, the level the water rises to in the sump is the height he should make his hole. That way the water starts to spill into the bulkhead as the water level rises. I never said for him to put it at the top of the wet/dry...
My bad if I did misunderstand you, but you specifically stated not to put the hole where Cooqie had it, and I really don't understand at all why you feel that way. Why do you feel this way? Anywhere you choose to put a bulkhead, the water will spill into and drain at the exact rate the overflow feeds it. The bulkhead MUST be below the bioballs, and that was my point. Apparently I am still missing something...
 
cooqie

cooqie

Member
What type of lighting should i put inside the stand for the refuge, florecent or jus normal lighting?
 
hurt

hurt

Active Member
You can use NO(normal output) flourescent lighting, but remember the more light you have on it the faster your macro's will grow, and as such the lower your nitrate and phosphate should be. I use a 65w coralife PC(power compact) fixture with 6700k(plant bulb) bulb.
 
hurt

hurt

Active Member
The macros' will grow with light, nitrate, and phosphate. The first is a must and there must be at least a little of the last two for them to grow. You don't feed them directly if that's what your getting at.
Also if you go with Chaetomorpha as your macro, run your fuge on a RDP(reverse daylight photosynthesis). Meaning when your DT lights turn off, your fuge light turns on and vice versa. Basically your fuge light is only on at night. I'd advise against the use of Caulerpa's for your Macro's.
 
hurt

hurt

Active Member
Yes, but make no mistake, you don't "want" the last two. An algae scrubber/refugium is designed to help lower PO4 and NH3. As the macros grow they use PO4 and NH3. When you harvest(take out) your macro's you are physically removing the nitrate and phosphate from your tank.
 
cooqie

cooqie

Member
o ok im getting my 20 gallon tank tommorow about how much space between baffles do i need or it doesnt mater?
 
hurt

hurt

Active Member
My fault, I should have been more specific, what are the dimensions of your tank? Specifically the L and W.
 
wattsupdoc

wattsupdoc

Active Member
I didnt read all of this post, but Coogie. that wet/dry has a bulit in counter current skimmer. You need to make sure you leave the correct water level in it for it to work. You want to take advantage of the skimmer dont you? If you drill the bulkhead out at the bottom of the wet/dry and the wet/dry is not elevated to the right hieght then the skimmer that is built in wont be effective.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/268567/help-i-dont-kno-how-to-build-the-wet-dry-pics
Actually, I just noticed that there is a baffle for the water level in the skimmer compartment.
You can drill the bulkhead wherever you like height wise, You want the sponge to remain completelty submerged. Myself I would place the bulkhead up slightly higher in the wet/dry. Just at the top of the sponge portion.
 
wattsupdoc

wattsupdoc

Active Member
I edited the last post sorry. Continue as you were, but refresh and read my other post.
You are missing the pump and associasted hoses that operate the skimmer. The tube in the first compartment with the blue cap on it is the skimmer. Do you have the pump?
 
wattsupdoc

wattsupdoc

Active Member
You can see the manufacturer about gettting a replacement. Or at least get the specs on it from them(GPH, needle wheel or venturi etc.). If you get the pump from them get whatever tubing it takes to connect it. Or you can get your own pump and set it up that way. Alternativly you could get an airpump and some hard airline tubing and airstones, plug off the inlet where the pump should go and just do a counter current skimmer with it.
Also the manufacturers directions on that wet/dry state that the minumum water level height should be at the base of the bio balls(top of the sponge), for proper operation. It doesnt hurt a thing if some of the balls are permanently submurged(sp). If you put the bulkhead down low in the wet/dry you will not be accomplishing this. Myself I would drill the bulkhead with the center of it dead on at the sponge hieght and do an 1 1/2 pipe out, so no flow is restricted. An 1 1/2 bulkhead doesnt get drilled out exactly 1 1/2. Depending on the bulkhead, the hole size will vary. Suggest to get your bulkhead and then drill your hole. You cant connect the 2 until you have it anyways so why not wait.
 
cooqie

cooqie

Member
ok but i dont need the skimmer for now right? because i will jus order it frm this website they have it its the pro clear 75 skimmer and i will jus tell them to send it to miami and then i will get it here because i bought the wet dry frm a friend so does it matter if i dont have the skimmer for now? and where should i drill the whole on the wet dry, should i drill it over where the water levle stops or should i drill it right under where the water levle stops?
 
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