refugium lighting

salt life

Active Member
Quick question-
right now for my fuge I have a shop light reflector and I found these 60W power compact flurescent spiral energy saving light bulbs. It's 800 lumens & 5000K & it is blue instead of the white/yellow.
is this enough and will it make the chaeto grow quickly? I'm trying to fill my whole fuge with the chaeto so I can get my trates down. they still hover around 40ppm.
 

meowzer

Moderator
You mean fill.....LOL
I use the spiral energy saving bulbs on my fuge...but they aren't blue
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3057909
You mean fill.....LOL
I use the spiral energy saving bulbs on my fuge...but they aren't blue
haha yeah, I edited it.
the ones I used before I got these were the yellower ones but the light shined out of the tank like crazy. these new compact ones give off alot of light but it doesn't shine all over my room. they are a blue/white
do you know the lumens it puts off or like what k it is?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
IMO Cheato is not a great exporter of nitrates. 40ppm is high your denitrification is not keeping up with your nitrification as I am sure you know. How much are you feeding and what is your live stock list
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3057913
IMO Cheato is not a great exporter of nitrates. 40ppm is high your denitrification is not keeping up with your nitrification as I am sure you know. How much are you feeding and what is your live stock list
livestock is
fimbraited moray
chainlink moray
spotted moray
3 dozen sgt majors
I cut back to feeding the eels once a week, and the sgt majors every other day or two.
my uncle came over during last week and told me if I was gonna keep my bioballs I need to get more, I only had one box on 180g of water system so I bought 2 more boxes and filled up the bioball section. he said the bioballs weren't breaking down the amm/trites fast enough for the chaeto to absorb the trates fast enough, which I think is what you mean about the denitrification not keeping up with my nitrification?
what do you think about aquaripure denitrators?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
I do not want to disagree with your uncle BUT you have high nitrates because your nitrification is doing its job. You denitrification is not up to the task of keeping up. Adding bio-balls is not the answer they do nothing for di-nitrification. There are two basic ways in which we achieve di-nitrification. Dissimilatory, which is through anaerobic bacteria and assimilatory where higher forms of algae which directly take nitrogenous waste into their tissue mass or vodka dosing with also uses bacteria to uptake nitrogenous waste both of these methods need harvesting to remove the nitrates from our tanks. You nitrogen cycle is predicated on the amount of waste you put into your tank. More waste more nitrifying bacteria. which grow very fast once established and colonize on most surfaces in the water column. The denitrification however is a slow process in developing and processing nitrates, as the water has to pass through anaerobic zones slowly through advection. What needs to be looked at in cases of chronic high nitrates are ways for dinitrification to keep up with the nitrate production. As mentioned above I prefer caulerpa in a refug. or vodka dosing as in my opinion they are the two most powerful methods I know. Many people use Cheato, personally I have not found it especially in larger tanks to be that effective
I am sure you are aware of all this but sometimes I like to ramble
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3058656
I do not want to disagree with your uncle BUT you have high nitrates because your nitrification is doing its job. You denitrification is not up to the task of keeping up. Adding bio-balls is not the answer they do nothing for di-nitrification. There are two basic ways in which we achieve di-nitrification. Dissimilatory, which is through anaerobic bacteria and assimilatory where higher forms of algae which directly take nitrogenous waste into their tissue mass or vodka dosing with also uses bacteria to uptake nitrogenous waste both of these methods need harvesting to remove the nitrates from our tanks. You nitrogen cycle is predicated on the amount of waste you put into your tank. More waste more nitrifying bacteria. which grow very fast once established and colonize on most surfaces in the water column. The denitrification however is a slow process in developing and processing nitrates, as the water has to pass through anaerobic zones slowly through advection. What needs to be looked at in cases of chronic high nitrates are ways for dinitrification to keep up with the nitrate production. As mentioned above I prefer caulerpa in a refug. or vodka dosing as in my opinion they are the two most powerful methods I know. Many people use Cheato, personally I have not found it especially in larger tanks to be that effective
I am sure you are aware of all this but sometimes I like to ramble

thank you for responding joe, What type of caulerpa would be the safest but the most effective? do all species of caulerpa go asexual or? I keep my fuge light on 24/7 with the chaeto, that is the only thing I really need to do with the caulerpa?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
First we must understand that caulerpa goes sexual not asexual and it does this as a way of propagation if you do not harvest and the caulerpa has no room to grow or if there are not enough nutrients in the water it will go sexual to find new places to grow and flourish. I personally use caulerpa taxifolia, but you can research other species like, Caulerpa microphysa that are not banned in California.
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3059026
First we must understand that caulerpa goes sexual not asexual and it does this as a way of propagation if you do not harvest and the caulerpa has no room to grow or if there are not enough nutrients in the water it will go sexual to find new places to grow and flourish. I personally use caulerpa taxifolia, but you can research other species like, Caulerpa microphysa that are not banned in California.
understood, can you help me out with lighting now? I'm just gonna stick with the chaetomorpha. What do you think about halogen lights for fuges? bang guy suggested 150W halogen bulb to someone else in another thread a while back.
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3059037
That’s fine is your Cheato tumbling
no theres too much for it to tumble but there is flow going through it and the light penatrates through it... which one would be fine? the 150W halogen bulb? does it give off alot of heat or will it be fine? 150W isn't too much and the kelvins/lumens (whatever is important) is good?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Use moderate to high lighting so go with the brightest you can afforded it does like tumbling so I would turn it every other day and harvest regularly
 

i<3reefs

Member
Lowes sells a 6500k 90w squiggly bulb that uses 26w and works great for chaeto. It puts off reasonable heat, but nothing like a regular halogen bulb. 6500k is closer to the light spectrum you'll want for chaeto.
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by I<3Reefs
http:///forum/post/3059057
Lowes sells a 6500k 90w squiggly bulb that uses 26w and works great for chaeto. It puts off reasonable heat, but nothing like a regular halogen bulb. 6500k is closer to the light spectrum you'll want for chaeto.
so should I not use the halogen bulbs or? Idk what K the halogens are

and I would rather not have the yellow tinted lighting, unless that is what it needs?
 

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3059597
What type of lamp is it in....for example...I have a $7 clip on lamp from Walmart...
ofcourse CK replies after I had to wait 10 years for a reply. won't 550W be too much over a smaller refugium and get too hot?
 
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