toddpolish
Member
I'm coming up on the 6 month mark for my light bulbs. was gonna replace the whites, but can't remember if I need to replace the blue actinics as well...
do I ?
do I ?
replacing actinics when???
- Thread starter toddpolish
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toddpolish
Member
yeah, the VHOs.
the place I'm buying bulbs from says it recommends these for the system you have...
Reef Mixed - 2 Actinic White & 2 Super Actinic
SPS Coral Reef - 3 AquaSun & 1 Super Actinic
right now I only have fish, but plan to move towards corals relatively soon...without knowing exactly what corals I'll be getting, which one would be better for me? ie...the most flexible...
the place I'm buying bulbs from says it recommends these for the system you have...
Reef Mixed - 2 Actinic White & 2 Super Actinic
SPS Coral Reef - 3 AquaSun & 1 Super Actinic
right now I only have fish, but plan to move towards corals relatively soon...without knowing exactly what corals I'll be getting, which one would be better for me? ie...the most flexible...
bang guy
Moderator
I disagree with the 6 month mark for VHO unless you have a magnetic ballast (get an electronic ASAP). On an electronic ballast your bulbs should be good for at least a year unless you have a hot MH bulb too close to them.
To answer your last question, whatever looks best to you will be fine with your corals. A true SPS tank isn't really an option with your lighting system though. There are a few SPS that will do well but not very many. If you're unsure of what might look good I would suggest two AquaSuns and two SuperActinic URI VHOs. Alternate the bulbs with an actinic in front.
If you only have fish right now you can defer the new bulb purchase until you have some corals that need the light.
To answer your last question, whatever looks best to you will be fine with your corals. A true SPS tank isn't really an option with your lighting system though. There are a few SPS that will do well but not very many. If you're unsure of what might look good I would suggest two AquaSuns and two SuperActinic URI VHOs. Alternate the bulbs with an actinic in front.
If you only have fish right now you can defer the new bulb purchase until you have some corals that need the light.
spsfreak100
Active Member
I apologize for going off topic, but, I completely agree with Bang Guy on the SPS issue. With VHO's, you'll be extremely limited in the genus Acroporidae, which contains hundreds of species of Acropora, Montipora, etc. Most species of Acropora will not thrive under that amount of lighting, neither will numorous species of other closely related species of scleractinian. If you would want a full blown small polyped Scleractinian (SPS) tank, you would most likely need halides. Halides give SPS their best growth and coloration. Under flourecents most will turn a dull brown within a month or two and will show very little growth (even if alkalinity and calcium levels are where they should be) To be completely honest, I've never seen a successfull SPS tank, over 70 gallons, without halides. I'm not saying it cannot be done, I'm simply stating that it would be in your best interest to invest some money in a halide setup.
Halides are generally the same amount of money has a URI VHO setup would cost (including an Icecap 660 ballast, wiring, refleactors, bulbs, endcaps, etc.). Halides also cost the same amount of money with your electric bill, watt per watt. Halides also do not emit more heat than flourecent lighting does. Halides have a center point of all the light, meaning that all the light is released through a small surface area rather than through the length of the bulb. Same goes with evaporation; you would get the same amount of evaporation, lets say running 800wts of VHO's, as you would with 800wts of halides. I would highly recommend you to invest some money in halides if you wanted a full blown SPS tank. Tridacna clams should also thrive under that halide lighting
Take Care,
Graham
Halides are generally the same amount of money has a URI VHO setup would cost (including an Icecap 660 ballast, wiring, refleactors, bulbs, endcaps, etc.). Halides also cost the same amount of money with your electric bill, watt per watt. Halides also do not emit more heat than flourecent lighting does. Halides have a center point of all the light, meaning that all the light is released through a small surface area rather than through the length of the bulb. Same goes with evaporation; you would get the same amount of evaporation, lets say running 800wts of VHO's, as you would with 800wts of halides. I would highly recommend you to invest some money in halides if you wanted a full blown SPS tank. Tridacna clams should also thrive under that halide lighting
Take Care,
Graham
franks reef
New Member
I personally like a mix of Actinic white and super actinic. Although, as tested by Bang Guy, you get more life out of Aqua suns than you do from white actinics. Especially with an Ice Cap ballast. Apparently, actinic phosphurs don't last more than 11-12 months.