RO/DI for FOWLR???? (San Francisco)

jayjay5531

Member
So I live in San Francisco (Yay Area represent!) and all the tap water here comes from Hetch Hetchy, which has an average TDS of 50 ppm or so (be jealous...lol). Right now I have a 36 gallon FOWLR with a couple of Oscellaris clowns, 1 Banggai cardinal, a cleaner shrimp, lotsss of nassarius snails, a brittle star, some green crabs (what are they called again?) and a sally lightfoot crab. So yeah, only three fish...Probably going to add a few more later.

I'm not exactly clear why RO/DI water is helpful for FOWLRs in the first place... is it just to prevent algae growth?
Regardless, is it a worthy investment to get a RO/DI or RO filtration unit with my set-up? The fish I have now are hardy, but will more sensitive fish or inverts benefit from purer water?

I'll probably convert it to a reef tank one day and in that case, of course I'll get a RO/DI filter.

Thanks!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjay5531 http:///t/396386/ro-di-for-fowlr-san-francisco#post_3531711
So I live in San Francisco (Yay Area represent!) and all the tap water here comes from Hetch Hetchy, which has an average TDS of 50 ppm or so (be jealous...lol). Right now I have a 36 gallon FOWLR with a couple of Oscellaris clowns, 1 Banggai cardinal, a cleaner shrimp, lotsss of nassarius snails, a brittle star, some green crabs (what are they called again?) and a sally lightfoot crab. So yeah, only three fish...Probably going to add a few more later.

I'm not exactly clear why RO/DI water is helpful for FOWLRs in the first place... is it just to prevent algae growth?
Regardless, is it a worthy investment to get a RO/DI or RO filtration unit with my set-up? The fish I have now are hardy, but will more sensitive fish or inverts benefit from purer water?

I'll probably convert it to a reef tank one day and in that case, of course I'll get a RO/DI filter.

Thanks!

I'm not exactly sure what is in your water. You can get a water report from your local water department, and that will let you know more details about what they put in your water and what it contains. 50ppm TDS is actually pretty high, considering what we are aiming for is zero. Some municipal water systems add chloramines (about 1 in 5 households) to their water supply because it disinfects better and lasts longer distances. Chloramines are harmful to corals, even though fish can tolerate them below certain levels. 50ppm TDS also means that there could be heavy metals, nitrates, phosphates and ammonia coming through your tap water - that could contribute to algae growth and poor health of corals and or death.

50ppm TDS also means that your in pretty good shape to have an RO/DI unit as well that works efficiently. First, I would go with a trusted RO/DI supplier who knows what they are talking about and are willing to help design a system around your needs. Each municipal water supply, as I mentioned earlier, has their own additives, and having an RO/DI supplier that knows how to remove those compounds is essential.

For example, in my area I have soft water - with 500TDS and chloramines and heavy metals coming out of the tap. This means that I need a good sediment filter changed out monthly, two catalytic carbon block filters to remove chloramines changed out every two to three months , and a 75gpd membrane with a 98% rejection rate so that my DI resin is not exhausted so quickly. A good DI resin can remove about 6800ppm TDS until it's exhausted, so in my area that's right around every 109 gallons of water that I make.

Fortunately for you, at 50ppm TDS, you're dealing with only 10% of what I have to.

I will say now that it will be cheaper in the long run to go ahead and buy the refillable carbon cartridges and the refillable DI resin so that it won't cost so much to maintain. An automatic flush valve will also extend the life of your RO membrane.

Do I think it's necessary for the health of the fish, corals and inverts? Absolutely. After topping off for so long and doing water changes with tap water, your tank builds up levels of toxins, heavy metals and so on that could have easily been prevented by using the appropriate equipment in the first place.
 

bang guy

Moderator
One concern I have about the water department reports is that they are usually once a year at the same time every year. The amount and makeup of tap water contaminants can vary wildly from season to season. Around here the tap water changes so much that even the aroma and taste changes a lot from winter to spring.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
See? There's a lot of variability from area to area. That's why it is important to get to know what is in your tap water and then designing a system around it.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Our city puts out monthly reports and water analysis on their website. That's not to say what you actually end up with coming from the tap. The amount of treatment or chemicals used varies with what is in the water at the time it's being treated.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
wow, 21ppm straight out of the tap is pretty dang good. That's about 500ppm TDS less than my average here in Louisiana.

You could definitely get away with a 5 micron sediment filter, two catalytic carbon block filters, a 90% rejection rate on a 100gpd membrane (I would still suggest the 75gpd unit at 98% rejection) and a 10" refillable DI cartridge. They are selling DI resin at a bulk supply store online right now for pretty cheap. It should give you some pretty clean water for a long time.

Heck, even a decent Kati/Ani filter would be fine if it was 21ppm - then you could practice good water conservation.
 
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