Rustic Blue Pine/Log 120g Stand Build

scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Ok, finally got a good start on the 120 stand build. Wanted to post pictures and get input before moving on to wrapping the frame.
Started with raw lumber ~ and boy was it raw! Spent four hours planing, sanding, dimensioning, and straightning to get something I could work with.

Basic stand was built using 2x6s

Added addition 2x6 supports on the ends, groved to fit 3/4" plywood for additional support

Inset 3/4" plywood ends

Framed the bottom plate with cut down 2x4, to create a "tub" area as described by and discussed with SCSInet (thanks)

Bottom plate of 3/4" plywood

Added additional 2x4 support to ends of front and back ~ basic frame now complete.

Anything I missed or any suggestions before I move on to the wrap? Any thoughts or input appreciated
.
 
spiderwoman

spiderwoman

Active Member
I like your boots

Oh this was about the stand, looks good

What are the dimensions of the tank, going for a deep one?
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by Veni Vidi Vici
http:///forum/post/2608946
Well done Scopus...Looking good so far.
Thank You
Originally Posted by SpiderWoman
http:///forum/post/2608949
I like your boots

Oh this was about the stand, looks good

What are the dimensions of the tank, going for a deep one?
Yah, kind of got my feet in that one didn't I? Oh well, it was late. 120 is 48" x 24" x 24" ~ this is for the LFS owner, not me; little trading for some local corals going on!
 
reefforbrains

reefforbrains

Active Member
Build really is looking good.
Kudos on kicking your own butt and deburring and preppin your raw stock.
Really shows with the nice joints and clean surfaces. Very well done sir.
As for feedback, I would just say to continue right along. Might give a bit extra for dry time to make sure all twist and flex is gone and THEN do your sheeting but thats just me.
Nice
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by Veni Vidi Vici
http:///forum/post/2611359
Update?


Originally Posted by ReefForBrains
http:///forum/post/2611388
Build really is looking good.
Kudos on kicking your own butt and deburring and preppin your raw stock.
Really shows with the nice joints and clean surfaces. Very well done sir.
As for feedback, I would just say to continue right along. Might give a bit extra for dry time to make sure all twist and flex is gone and THEN do your sheeting but thats just me.
Nice
Thanks guys, appreciate the comments ~ wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Update is that its sitting waiting to get the "tub" properly coated with four coats of poly, and waiting for me to finish firefighter training this weekend. So it should get plenty of extra dry time before I get back to it (actually already got some, as I planed and sanded all the boards about a week prior to actually starting the build). Once I do, I've got to sand down all the blue pine tongue and groove that I'll be using for wrap. Hoping to hit it again towards the middle of next week. I"ll post pictures as I go ~ stick around for me ~ always good to have others looking over your shoulder, pointing out things you may overlook.
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Ok, so I know its been awhile since I started this thread, but I got busy over the summer and didn't have much time to post pics, so I never finished it. Figured I would resurrect it (Thanks to Bang Guy for changing the title for me) and finish it up.
After the case skeleton was constructed, we coated the ******** with 4 coats of polyurathane and caulked the seams to make it waterproof.

This had the effect of creating a "tub" in the bottom in the event of an overflow or spill (this was based on a suggestion from Quint (SCSInet) - if you haven't checked out his build thread be sure and do so, its pretty awesome!)
.

Finish work was all done by my buddy Dennis210 (Thanks Dennis!)
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Once the ******** finish was complete, I added to small shelves to hold chemicals on the side opposite which the sump would eventually sit.


I then wrapped ("skinned") the exterior of the stand using 4" tongue and grove blue pine boards. The boards were all presanded before being installed and were attached using a brad nailer.


 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
After the wrap was on, it was time for trim. I took lodgepole pine logs and peeled them down for the log trim, and used blue pine 2x4s for the top ledge. The angle daddo was cut into the logs using a table saw, and then they were cut to fit using a miter saw. All the logs were preselected based on the character.


 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Then it was off to the spray booth for several coats of lacquer (doesn't yellow the pine like poly does). Again Dennis210 did the finish work for me.




 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Once the stand itself was completed, I went to work on the canopy. Same basic design as the stand, except my case was all built out of 3/4" plywood rather than 2x4s and 2x6s. Wrap is the same size blue pine tongue and groove board, logs were used for the trim, and the lip was blue pine 2x4.
Canopy Front

Canopy - Right Side

Canopy - Left Side

My original intention was to build the canopy with a front that would open in addition to the doors, and then have the light sitting on a roller system allowing it to be rolled out of the canopy for bulb changes and other maintainence. Unfortuanately because of the owners light design I was unable to include the roller system, and had to simply build a ledge for the light to sit on. It can still be slid out the front of the canopy for maintanence when the front is open however. The top was left open to allow for maximum ventilation of the MH in the light.
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
After the canopy was complete, it was door time. Didn't want to have to do a wrap on the doors, so it required something different than the 1x4 tongue and groove blue pine. I was also worried about warp and twist in the doors, so I decided to go with regular 1x6 blue pine.
The rough stock

Cut the boards to length, then ran them over the sander. Once they were all the same thickness, I bisquit-jointed the boards together and left them glued and clamped overnight.
Bottom doors

Top doors

I didn't want the doors to stand out from the tongue and groove pattern of the stand. So, once they had dried, I mounted them on the stand, then marked my lines for routering in grooves to line-up with and match the stand.

I also wanted the doors to sit flush against the stand, so I routered out the hinges (this was a bad decision - still a good idea in my mind - but definitely a bad decision with these doors).
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
I was able to use a standard "v" groove bit in the router to exactly match the groove pattern in the cabinet. Set up a guide board and routered out my grooves.
Routering top doors

Routering bottom doors

Once the routering was complete, it was time for the handles. Cut the correct size pieces out of log, peeled them, and then ran them over the table saw to flatten them on one side.
 
scopus tang

scopus tang

Active Member
Once the handles were ready, I mounted them using deck screws from the back side.
Bottom doors

Top doors

full view (bottom)

and full view (both sets)

Then it was back to the spray booth (thanks again Dennis!).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top