seahorse species and basic needs

[teresaq]

Horses that are 5 to 7 inches should be comfortable in a 29 gal tank. They make a 37 gal cube that makes a wonderful horse tank. If you can find a tall tank all the better. The smaller species would be fine in a 15 to 20 gal tank for a pairH. Erectus - There are the southern and northern variety of this species. Northern fry are Pelagic-dont hitch at birthSouthern fry are Benthic-hitch at birth
both are 5 to 7 inch long-may reach 8 inches
temps need to be 72 to 77 degrees
Tank-- at least 18 to 21 inch tall
H Barbouri aka Barbs
5 to 6 inches
Tank -- 18 plus inches tall
72 to 77 degrees
Fry are Benthic
H. Breviceps
3 to 4 inches
Tank -- 15 plus inches
65 to 69 degrees - chiller required
Fry are ?
H. Fuscus
3 to 5 inches
tank 15 inches Plus tall
72 to 77 degrees
Fry are ?
H. Kuda
4 to 7 inches
Tank -- 18 to 21 inches tall
72 to 77 degrees
Fry are Pelagic
H. Reidi
6 to 8 inches but could reach up to 12 inches
Tank -- 24 inches plus tall
72 to 77 degrees
Fry are Pelagic and one of the hardest to raise but it can be done
H. Ingens
12 inches
Tank 30 to 36 inch tall
68 to 78 degrees - would need chiller
Fry are Pelagic
H. Abdominalis aka Pot Bellied seahorse
12 inches plus
Tank- 36 inches tall plus
59 to 71 degrees - chiller required
Fry are Pelagic
H. Kelloggi
6 to 10 inches but may get as large as 12 inches
They are a Deep water seahorse
Tank for these horses I would say the taller the better. 30 plus inches (just my opinion-because of the deep water thing)
68 to 77 degrees, but would stick to lower temps
Fry are?
H. Comes AKA Tiger Tails
4 to 6 inches
Tank -- 18 inches tall
72 to 77 degrees
Fry are ?
H Zosterae also known as Zots Also known as Dwarf Seahorses
1 to 1.5 inches
5 gal tank
72 to 77 degrees
Fry can be raised with parents
Have very specific feed needs. Must be fed newly hatched Brine shrimp several times a day

 

[teresaq]

H. Erectus

 

[sueandherzoo]

Brazilian Reidi

 

[teresaq]

these are from Cleve_seahorse
Juvi male Reidi

 

[dive girl]

H. zosterae a.k.a. dwarf seahorse
Last photo is of a baby dwarf seahorse.

 

[loopy101]

this thread is great! i was just looking into starting a seahorse tank and have the perfect tank that i wanted to use but was unsure if the height of the tank would be ok. and it will work just fine for dwarf seahorses! now i can move onto the next step!
thanks again!!

 

[amandastp]

I love this thread! What beautiful creatures. It gave me the chills. It makes me that much more determined to set up the perfect tank so I can get a pair.

 

[teresaq]

Hi Amanda. Why don't you start a thread here, and everyone will give you a hand. We all love horses. I just lost mine a couple of days ago due to tank problems and am still in shock, but love to help others get started.

 

[woody189]

Originally Posted by TeresaQ
http:///forum/post/3059146
Hi Amanda. Why don't you start a thread here, and everyone will give you a hand. We all love horses. I just lost mine a couple of days ago due to tank problems and am still in shock, but love to help others get started.
Good thread...Sorry to hear that.

 

[amandastp]

So sorry to hear that. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated!!. I just bought a 29 gallon tank and was told by the LFS to use CC and Non live rock. That is all I have so far. Not sure where to go from here. I hear its good to have Live rock and/or live sand for a natural filter and I also have heard that there can be thinks in live rock that are harmfull to seahorses so I don't know what to believe. I am hoping I can modify the filter that came with my tank to be a little more seahorse friendly. I'm wondering if I should just buy a whole new system? Right now the water cascades into the tank and creates a few bubbles at the surface. I am hoping I can find a compatable powerhead of some sort to bring the in flow under the water as well as make the in take safer. not sure how to do this. I have also read that the seahorse can hitch to the heater and get burned. I brought this up to my LFS and they just said they may do it once and hopefully learn not to do it again. Any one have any thoughts on this?

 

[amandastp]

Originally Posted by TeresaQ
http:///forum/post/3059146
Hi Amanda. Why don't you start a thread here, and everyone will give you a hand. We all love horses. I just lost mine a couple of days ago due to tank problems and am still in shock, but love to help others get started.
Hi Teresa I starded a thread yesturday and have been amazed at all the wounderful people willing to help. Thanks a lot!!

 

[teresaq]

Hi amanda. Why dont you start a thread of your ownhere in the seahorse forum, about your tank, and we will address these problems.

Most people dont know the needs of horses which are just a little differant then regular fish
Dont listent anything your lfs is telling you.
my god, dont they realize that if a horse gets burned, they can get infections and die.
You prob dont need a heater anyway. Seahorse tanks need to be kept on the cool side, 72 t0 74 degrees
T

 

[amandastp]

I just bought a 29 gallon tank a little over 2 weeks ago. It came with a heater,and the kind of filter that hangs on the back of the tank. I did a lot of research on seahorses but I guess I was not as prepared as I thought. The people at the LFS told me what I was buying would be good for seahorses, but now I am not so sure. I have been told that a sump filtration system would be better, but I know nothing about them and I have already spent close to $1000 so I am hoping I don't have to buy all new equipment, although I am willing to do what ever it takes to achieve a successful tank with happy horses!! The LFS also told me to buy crushed coral for the bottom of the tank, and now the more I read, people are saying sand is better. Then there is the debate live sand VS non live sand. Live rock VS base rock? Should I get ride of the CC and buy sand. The LFS sold me Base rock, which I guess I was under the impression it was live, but have confirmed otherwise. So to sum it up. 29 gallon tank, Back of the tank filter, heater, top of the tank light with a blue light and a white light, CC on the bottom and a few base rocks that are starting to turn green because I was just informed that I have had the lights on to many hours a day. Now the LFS told me to buy a Damsel to help cycle the tank, which I knew he would not be-able to stay in the tank with the horses, but they told me I could return him. Now I am finding that it is harmful to him and inhumane to have him in there while the tank is cycling and I feel terrible and don,t know what to do with him. I don't ever want to have to go back to that store again. So that is my story. I have always loved seahorses. I guess you could say I am obsessed with them. I even have a tattoo of a seahorse on my back. I have been contemplating getting seahorses for years, and believe me I know it is very difficult to do. People have been telling me to give up on seahorses and start with fish which makes me sad. I really want the seahorses and am willing to do what ever it takes. I am hoping with all your help that I will be successful. Any tips you can provide would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

 

[teresaq]

Amanda, Do you know how to start a new post? could you move this to one you started. This thread is pinned for info only and I would feel better helping you in your thread so all your info is together.
T

 

[danu]

Great job Teresa!
A couple of quick notes folks may not be aware of:
H. erectus
Southern Variety: males may reach 8 to 9 inches. Females up to 7 to 8 inches. Very large bodied. More body mass than all the other species listed except H. abdominalis.
Northern Variety: Larger dorsal fin, shorter snout, typically smaller than Southern Variety. Very strong swimmer. Ideal temperature range for this variety 65 to 72 F.
Virtually all bred in the USA
H. barbouri
Continues to grow with age. Older specimens (5+ years) capable of reach 8 inches or more. Best breeding temperatures in captivity 68 to 72 F. Fry, small broods, among the easiest to rear but very slow growers.
Mostly bred in the USA or Australia.
H. kuda
Several different varieties clumped into this group by Project Seahorse. H. taeniopterus recognized by Australia as a separate species is grouped into this group. H. taeniopterus may reach 8 to 10 inches. Will often be listed as H. kuda.
Bred in the USA, Australia and Viet Nam. Specimens from Viet Nam have a poor history of longevity.
H. reidi
Continues to grow with age. Older specimens, 7 years old or more can reach 12 to 14 inches. Among the more difficult fry to rear.
Mostly bred in Sri Lanka and Brazil, very few USA bred. Most of available specimens are from Sri Lanka.
H. ingens
Very long tail compared to other seahorses. While they can reach 12 inches, another seahorse in the 8 inch range will seem just as large. Among the most difficult to rear. Fry are smaller than H. reidi.
Mostly bred in Mexico. Very few USA bred.
H. abdominalis
Fry are 2 to 3 times larger than H. erectus fry.
Mostly bred in Australia.
H. zosterae
Fry are relatively easy. To induce breeding, drop the temperature to the upper 60's or lower 70's depending upon where the current tank temperature is. Breed year round in the wild, even with temperatures as low as 65 F.
Due to the cost of breeding, wild caught specimens are significantly cheaper.
Most H. kuda, H. comes and H. kelloggi are imported from Viet Nam and have a poor history in captivity. H. comes from ORA will have a better track record. Currently no know USA breeders of H. kelloggi.
H. breviceps and H. abdominalis are almost always imported from Australia and have a very good history of longevity if conditions are met.
Dan

 

[teresaq]

Thanks Dan. I was hoping someone with more knowledge then me would add to the first three threads.
T

 

[jc germ]

i went to the shop this weekend and when i got there they were just dropping off new stock and to my amazement they had 2 black sea horses i just had to have them as i had a tank at home just for them to be alone so starting a sea horse tank now
so i have a question as they were just delivered and i took them home and acclimatized them they have been in there since Saturday and have not eaten yet???
is this normal for them are they just stressed out or what gives im giving them baby brine Live
all my prams are correct

 

[novahobbies]

Ah, you've been bitten by the "IMustHaveItNow!!" bug!! I have to say, it's usually a fatal illness....for the animal, that is. Although I don't EVER recommend anyone impulse buy a seahorse, I know it happens. In your case, the fact that you had a tank available for the horses to live alone is a good start. With a little work and a LOT of research I'm sure we can pull you through. Before any of us can answer your question about feeding, we need a little more information from you.
First, what species of seahorse did you buy? "Black" seahorses can be anything....and as I'm sure you'll discover, color is never a guide for these guys. H. erectus, H. reidi, and H. barbouri are often sold as "black seahorses" in many local fish stores. You REALLY need to know the species...call your LFS and ask if you don't already know.
Second, were the horses captive bred or wild caught? This makes all the difference when feeding the animals. If they were wild caught, you have a serious uphill battle in front of you...one that is not often won. Wild caught animals will often only take live food, and more often than not they will ignore anything but the food they were eating in the wild. You mentioned already that they are ignoring the live baby brine. This could be a good thing, or not. If the horses are captive bred, they are probably just not used to equating lbbs as "food." Then again, most large seahorses won't get much nutrition from bbs anyway, as they are built to hunt and catch larger prey. If you have a wild caught pair of horses, I would suggest finding out if your LFS sells live ghost shrimp. There are online providers of this food, but you can't count on the shipping of online places when every day without food means starvation. Horses will occasionally go off their food for a day or two, and it's not unheard of that they ignore their groceries during acclimation, but you have to be very watchful during this time. Seahorse digestive systems are very simple; they lack a true stomach, and they will starve to death in a frighteningly short period of time. Ideally you should be feeding your horses small amounts 3 times a day when they start eating again.
If your horses are in fact captive bred, then most likely they have been raised on frozen mysis shrimp. Easy thing to find out. Buy some mysis, thaw it (drain the liquid) and let them try it. Most captive bred horses will go after mysis pretty quickly.
Also, an you, give us some info on the tank you have set up for these guys. Has the tank been cycled? What size tank is it, and what are your filtration methods??
Finally, I stongly suggest you get some research under your belt!! Start by reading the sticky threads on this website. Go through that, then come back and ask away! Oh, but make your own thread....we're trying to keep these stickies with just the basic info.

 

[jc germ]

thanks for the info
this was my display tank bout 6 months ago it is a 2m hi top there is a bare minimal in the tank now a bit of live rock because a seabay is attached to it so could not take it out the tank is about 2 years old with regular water changes of course sump protein skimmer and all
was a reef tank.. not sure if they are captive or wild bred they are Reidi or something like that what i was told but you never know all prams are fine tested before I went to the lfs
anything else you need from me

 

[jc germ]

sorry it is a bad pick but my cams battery is flat so cell phone cam