Sick BTA?
- Thread starter bexleyfish
- Start date
butters
Member
Originally Posted by TangWhispr
This is complete BS. I am done with this thread, This is why i rarely check this site, way to many noobs giving advice. Thats why I go to -- or UF for answers to my questions
good, take your attitude with you.
anyways
here is a good site for BTA's
karens rose anemones. com
*edit*
nevermind on the link, just saw it was posted
This is complete BS. I am done with this thread, This is why i rarely check this site, way to many noobs giving advice. Thats why I go to -- or UF for answers to my questions
good, take your attitude with you.
anyways
here is a good site for BTA's
karens rose anemones. com
*edit*
nevermind on the link, just saw it was posted
rod buehle
Member
Wow, I dont even know where to begin..
Ill start by saying that that LTA is also starving. Note the somewhat lack of tentacles and even more so the length of the tentacles. It is slowly withering away. It can take quite a few months (maybe a year+)for them to starve to death.
Yes, I have seen green BTAs run from halides, but on the flip side, I have a rose that is in less than 12 inches of water that sits directly below a double ended 400 watt bulb that is driven by an HQI (400watt) ballast
Actinic lights serve more of a purpose than just making things look pretty. Actinic light promotes the growth of Zoaxanthellae algae, essential for the growth and well-being of all photosynthetic corals and invertebrates.
Completely false. Can you show the studies of where this statement came from?
Actinics are not needed for anything accept aesthetics
I run MANY systems, and very few of them have actinic lighting. I keep S.gigantea, (1 for 14 years, and another for 3), I keep BTAs (some for 8+ years), I keep H.mag (3+ years) I have LTA (2+ years) I have kept S. hadoni, I have kept H.crispa.. Right now I dont have actinics over anything except for the tanks where I keep my propigated BTA,s. They are under VHOs with one actinic, and one actinic white. The tanks are very shallow
Watts per gallon is the worst rule of thumb ever suggested in this hobby. I can put a 175 watt halide over lake michigan (if it had salt) and if the anemone could perch itself high enough on the rock, it could do well and thats like .000000000000000000000000000000001 WPG, where as I could throw a 60 watt incandescent bulb over a dixie cup which is a helluva lot of WPG and it aint gonna grow anything.
This is why i rarely check this site, way to many noobs giving advice. Thats why I go to -- or UF for answers to my questions
I pretty much agree. If I can get to a thread early, I will make a post, but otherwise there is so much improper info given and ya dont know what to believe, and/or dont know where to start by trying to offer different advice/info. This site is OK, but there is definitely a lot of "the blind leading the blind"
Bottom line.. That BTA can do well in that flat back hex with 2 x 65 wat PCs if its also fed well ( SMALL pieces). It might do OK with 1 10KK and 1 actinic, but I would probably use 2 10KK , or 1 10 KK and 1 50/50. Ideally, I would go for 1 metal halide fixture/pendant. I would do a 250, but a 175 would be plenty. The 250 will give you more options in the long run. MH will also be cheaper in the long run, but the average turn-over in this hobby is 18 months, so for the average MH may not be cheaper
Karensroseanemones There is some pretty good info there but definitely the holy grail of anemone sites. When a rose usually splits its usually from some sort of stress.. Maybe from a leather coral using chemical warefare.. Maybe from some salt creep falling on it.. Maybe from a water change that had the temp vary by 2 degrees.. maybe from being feed too much/large.. Maybe.... it doesnt take much. Why do Karens roses split so much?
Ill start by saying that that LTA is also starving. Note the somewhat lack of tentacles and even more so the length of the tentacles. It is slowly withering away. It can take quite a few months (maybe a year+)for them to starve to death.
Yes, I have seen green BTAs run from halides, but on the flip side, I have a rose that is in less than 12 inches of water that sits directly below a double ended 400 watt bulb that is driven by an HQI (400watt) ballast
Actinic lights serve more of a purpose than just making things look pretty. Actinic light promotes the growth of Zoaxanthellae algae, essential for the growth and well-being of all photosynthetic corals and invertebrates.
Completely false. Can you show the studies of where this statement came from?
Actinics are not needed for anything accept aesthetics
I run MANY systems, and very few of them have actinic lighting. I keep S.gigantea, (1 for 14 years, and another for 3), I keep BTAs (some for 8+ years), I keep H.mag (3+ years) I have LTA (2+ years) I have kept S. hadoni, I have kept H.crispa.. Right now I dont have actinics over anything except for the tanks where I keep my propigated BTA,s. They are under VHOs with one actinic, and one actinic white. The tanks are very shallow
Watts per gallon is the worst rule of thumb ever suggested in this hobby. I can put a 175 watt halide over lake michigan (if it had salt) and if the anemone could perch itself high enough on the rock, it could do well and thats like .000000000000000000000000000000001 WPG, where as I could throw a 60 watt incandescent bulb over a dixie cup which is a helluva lot of WPG and it aint gonna grow anything.
This is why i rarely check this site, way to many noobs giving advice. Thats why I go to -- or UF for answers to my questions
I pretty much agree. If I can get to a thread early, I will make a post, but otherwise there is so much improper info given and ya dont know what to believe, and/or dont know where to start by trying to offer different advice/info. This site is OK, but there is definitely a lot of "the blind leading the blind"
Bottom line.. That BTA can do well in that flat back hex with 2 x 65 wat PCs if its also fed well ( SMALL pieces). It might do OK with 1 10KK and 1 actinic, but I would probably use 2 10KK , or 1 10 KK and 1 50/50. Ideally, I would go for 1 metal halide fixture/pendant. I would do a 250, but a 175 would be plenty. The 250 will give you more options in the long run. MH will also be cheaper in the long run, but the average turn-over in this hobby is 18 months, so for the average MH may not be cheaper
Karensroseanemones There is some pretty good info there but definitely the holy grail of anemone sites. When a rose usually splits its usually from some sort of stress.. Maybe from a leather coral using chemical warefare.. Maybe from some salt creep falling on it.. Maybe from a water change that had the temp vary by 2 degrees.. maybe from being feed too much/large.. Maybe.... it doesnt take much. Why do Karens roses split so much?
dawman
Active Member
Jimmy , if your LTA was dieing I would think it would lose it`s color first , but Rod has more experience than I do by far . It does not have many or long tentacles as most LTAs I`ve seen . I bought a bleached dieing LTA a few months back to save it . It had many long tentacles but bleached white and not looking good . Now it is getting some color and looks healthy to me and definetly better than when I bought it .
butters
Member
anemone do not only split because of bad water condishions to raise its chances of survival.
if it was that way in the ocean, there would be no anemones left.... none of them would split lol
they also will split if they feel its safe to do it and are ready.
but there are hundreds of views on why they do it... so who knows.
if it was that way in the ocean, there would be no anemones left.... none of them would split lol
they also will split if they feel its safe to do it and are ready.
but there are hundreds of views on why they do it... so who knows.
perfectdark
Active Member
Hi Rod I know I didnt start this thread but many thanks to the useful information you provide.
As for the statment I made about actinic lighting.. let me first say this.. if in fact I state something on one of these threads it is because I have read it somewhere or was told by what I would assume to be a "knowledgable source" as for that specific line I need to look back and see where I found it. Other wise I premise my remarks with "IMO" as IMO what distinguishes intellegence from ignorance is not how much we know, but when we can say "I dont know".
For me all message boards far and wide are filled with instances of the blind leading the blind, and as my general rule of thumb, IMO, everything is taken with a grain of salt. The exception to this rule is when someone has conclusive evidence with years of expierience, such as yourself, and or anything that is published. But my goal is to learn as much as I can, read as much as I can, and understand as much as I can, so I can fully grasp whats really right and really wrong in this hobby. Sometimes passing this information along is not as helpful as we want it to be. For the simple fact that the people such as yourself arent as readily available as we would like them to be. And alot of posts are made by people like myself that are telling others what they have been told by what seems to be trusted sources.
As for the statment I made about actinic lighting.. let me first say this.. if in fact I state something on one of these threads it is because I have read it somewhere or was told by what I would assume to be a "knowledgable source" as for that specific line I need to look back and see where I found it. Other wise I premise my remarks with "IMO" as IMO what distinguishes intellegence from ignorance is not how much we know, but when we can say "I dont know".
For me all message boards far and wide are filled with instances of the blind leading the blind, and as my general rule of thumb, IMO, everything is taken with a grain of salt. The exception to this rule is when someone has conclusive evidence with years of expierience, such as yourself, and or anything that is published. But my goal is to learn as much as I can, read as much as I can, and understand as much as I can, so I can fully grasp whats really right and really wrong in this hobby. Sometimes passing this information along is not as helpful as we want it to be. For the simple fact that the people such as yourself arent as readily available as we would like them to be. And alot of posts are made by people like myself that are telling others what they have been told by what seems to be trusted sources.
nietzsche
Active Member
Originally Posted by Rod Buehle
Wow, I dont even know where to begin..
Ill start by saying that that LTA is also starving. Note the somewhat lack of tentacles and even more so the length of the tentacles. It is slowly withering away. It can take quite a few months (maybe a year+)for them to starve to death.
Yes, I have seen green BTAs run from halides, but on the flip side, I have a rose that is in less than 12 inches of water that sits directly below a double ended 400 watt bulb that is driven by an HQI (400watt) ballast
Completely false. Can you show the studies of where this statement came from?
Actinics are not needed for anything accept aesthetics
I run MANY systems, and very few of them have actinic lighting. I keep S.gigantea, (1 for 14 years, and another for 3), I keep BTAs (some for 8+ years), I keep H.mag (3+ years) I have LTA (2+ years) I have kept S. hadoni, I have kept H.crispa.. Right now I dont have actinics over anything except for the tanks where I keep my propigated BTA,s. They are under VHOs with one actinic, and one actinic white. The tanks are very shallow
Watts per gallon is the worst rule of thumb ever suggested in this hobby. I can put a 175 watt halide over lake michigan (if it had salt) and if the anemone could perch itself high enough on the rock, it could do well and thats like .000000000000000000000000000000001 WPG, where as I could throw a 60 watt incandescent bulb over a dixie cup which is a helluva lot of WPG and it aint gonna grow anything.
I pretty much agree. If I can get to a thread early, I will make a post, but otherwise there is so much improper info given and ya dont know what to believe, and/or dont know where to start by trying to offer different advice/info. This site is OK, but there is definitely a lot of "the blind leading the blind"
Bottom line.. That BTA can do well in that flat back hex with 2 x 65 wat PCs if its also fed well ( SMALL pieces). It might do OK with 1 10KK and 1 actinic, but I would probably use 2 10KK , or 1 10 KK and 1 50/50. Ideally, I would go for 1 metal halide fixture/pendant. I would do a 250, but a 175 would be plenty. The 250 will give you more options in the long run. MH will also be cheaper in the long run, but the average turn-over in this hobby is 18 months, so for the average MH may not be cheaper
Karensroseanemones There is some pretty good info there but definitely the holy grail of anemone sites. When a rose usually splits its usually from some sort of stress.. Maybe from a leather coral using chemical warefare.. Maybe from some salt creep falling on it.. Maybe from a water change that had the temp vary by 2 degrees.. maybe from being feed too much/large.. Maybe.... it doesnt take much. Why do Karens roses split so much?
we need more of you (and people like you) around, especially since i've noticed an influx of people wanting anemones who have only had their tank for 2 months or less, never close to the suggested minimum of where a mature tank should be. people dont realize we say 6 months at least is because most of these algae blooms and so on should stop by then, should have stable water parameters and know where your parameters should be, also by 6 months you should have read enough to know what you're doing
then when you tell people you need stronger lighting than pc they just say "well so and so has kept an anemone and theyre doing fine so im going to do it, i dont need your advice," i give advice on what i read through wetwebmedia, but basic info on what an anemone might need.. when i usually do need help for something more "advanced" i'll go and post on -- though where people aren't afraid to tell that youre completely wrong or will correct you right away or challenge what you say
Wow, I dont even know where to begin..
Ill start by saying that that LTA is also starving. Note the somewhat lack of tentacles and even more so the length of the tentacles. It is slowly withering away. It can take quite a few months (maybe a year+)for them to starve to death.
Yes, I have seen green BTAs run from halides, but on the flip side, I have a rose that is in less than 12 inches of water that sits directly below a double ended 400 watt bulb that is driven by an HQI (400watt) ballast
Completely false. Can you show the studies of where this statement came from?
Actinics are not needed for anything accept aesthetics
I run MANY systems, and very few of them have actinic lighting. I keep S.gigantea, (1 for 14 years, and another for 3), I keep BTAs (some for 8+ years), I keep H.mag (3+ years) I have LTA (2+ years) I have kept S. hadoni, I have kept H.crispa.. Right now I dont have actinics over anything except for the tanks where I keep my propigated BTA,s. They are under VHOs with one actinic, and one actinic white. The tanks are very shallow
Watts per gallon is the worst rule of thumb ever suggested in this hobby. I can put a 175 watt halide over lake michigan (if it had salt) and if the anemone could perch itself high enough on the rock, it could do well and thats like .000000000000000000000000000000001 WPG, where as I could throw a 60 watt incandescent bulb over a dixie cup which is a helluva lot of WPG and it aint gonna grow anything.
I pretty much agree. If I can get to a thread early, I will make a post, but otherwise there is so much improper info given and ya dont know what to believe, and/or dont know where to start by trying to offer different advice/info. This site is OK, but there is definitely a lot of "the blind leading the blind"
Bottom line.. That BTA can do well in that flat back hex with 2 x 65 wat PCs if its also fed well ( SMALL pieces). It might do OK with 1 10KK and 1 actinic, but I would probably use 2 10KK , or 1 10 KK and 1 50/50. Ideally, I would go for 1 metal halide fixture/pendant. I would do a 250, but a 175 would be plenty. The 250 will give you more options in the long run. MH will also be cheaper in the long run, but the average turn-over in this hobby is 18 months, so for the average MH may not be cheaper
Karensroseanemones There is some pretty good info there but definitely the holy grail of anemone sites. When a rose usually splits its usually from some sort of stress.. Maybe from a leather coral using chemical warefare.. Maybe from some salt creep falling on it.. Maybe from a water change that had the temp vary by 2 degrees.. maybe from being feed too much/large.. Maybe.... it doesnt take much. Why do Karens roses split so much?
we need more of you (and people like you) around, especially since i've noticed an influx of people wanting anemones who have only had their tank for 2 months or less, never close to the suggested minimum of where a mature tank should be. people dont realize we say 6 months at least is because most of these algae blooms and so on should stop by then, should have stable water parameters and know where your parameters should be, also by 6 months you should have read enough to know what you're doing
then when you tell people you need stronger lighting than pc they just say "well so and so has kept an anemone and theyre doing fine so im going to do it, i dont need your advice," i give advice on what i read through wetwebmedia, but basic info on what an anemone might need.. when i usually do need help for something more "advanced" i'll go and post on -- though where people aren't afraid to tell that youre completely wrong or will correct you right away or challenge what you say
rod buehle
Member
Originally Posted by butters
anemone do not only split because of bad water condishions to raise its chances of survival.
if it was that way in the ocean, there would be no anemones left.... none of them would split lol
they also will split if they feel its safe to do it and are ready.
but there are hundreds of views on why they do it... so who knows.
This is a problem that is often encountered. When people hear that the anemones USUALLY split from some sort of stress, people get defensive and think that their water quality and tank keeping abilities are in question and thats not the case at all.
Maybe from a leather coral using chemical warefare.. Maybe from some salt creep falling on it.. Maybe from a water change that had the temp vary by 2 degrees.. maybe from being feed too much/large.. Maybe...
Yes, they do split to increase their chance of survival, so when they feel threatened (stressed) they split. Yes they can and do split on their own, especially when they get large, but I think that you will find more often than not that they split due to some form of stress. Sometimes that stress or threat can go unnoticed to a newer hobbyist because they may not realize that their leather coral or palythoa could be irritating their anemone, or that their temp or pH was slightly different during their last water change.
anemone do not only split because of bad water condishions to raise its chances of survival.
if it was that way in the ocean, there would be no anemones left.... none of them would split lol
they also will split if they feel its safe to do it and are ready.
but there are hundreds of views on why they do it... so who knows.
This is a problem that is often encountered. When people hear that the anemones USUALLY split from some sort of stress, people get defensive and think that their water quality and tank keeping abilities are in question and thats not the case at all.
Maybe from a leather coral using chemical warefare.. Maybe from some salt creep falling on it.. Maybe from a water change that had the temp vary by 2 degrees.. maybe from being feed too much/large.. Maybe...
Yes, they do split to increase their chance of survival, so when they feel threatened (stressed) they split. Yes they can and do split on their own, especially when they get large, but I think that you will find more often than not that they split due to some form of stress. Sometimes that stress or threat can go unnoticed to a newer hobbyist because they may not realize that their leather coral or palythoa could be irritating their anemone, or that their temp or pH was slightly different during their last water change.
rod buehle
Member
My reply RE: blind leading the blind, didnt come off the way I intended it. ( I guess I didnt have enough coffee yet
) I wasnt trying to discredit anyone but often post are replyed to with uncertain answers. Those uncertain answers are usually coming from someone that just want tho help, and thats great, but often the post snow balls with more "wrong info", or "mythinformation", and after it snow balls its sometimes difficult to go back an input information because the thread is side-railed
Good luck to you all
Good luck to you all
rod buehle
Member
Originally Posted by Jimmy 4
hey
Rod Buehle
Since you know so much about anemones.... what kind of LTA do I have. Im not even sure that it is an LTA. The LFS told me that it was a sebea when i bought it.
It seems to like my lighting... it has moved to the bottom of the tank and dug itself down in the sand.
With out a pic , it could be an S.hadoni as far as I know
hey
Rod Buehle
Since you know so much about anemones.... what kind of LTA do I have. Im not even sure that it is an LTA. The LFS told me that it was a sebea when i bought it.
It seems to like my lighting... it has moved to the bottom of the tank and dug itself down in the sand.
With out a pic , it could be an S.hadoni as far as I know
rod buehle
Member
Sorry Jimmy, I didnt pay attention close enough.. From this pic I would say that you have an H. aurora. not a starving M.doreensis ( AKA LTA). This pic shows a little better detail that the first one you posted.
They may be hard to see, but if you can, see if there is verrucae on the upper part of the column/base/foot
They may be hard to see, but if you can, see if there is verrucae on the upper part of the column/base/foot