Size of Tank to Start With

joyful23

Member
WOW! What a deal! Wish I could find one like that! I have been watching the papers for sometime now and "nothing". Anyway...I'm glad I found a place for questions and answers. This is GREAT!!!
 

rstiles

Member
no pre drilled means holes at bottem of tank to plum in to the sump,on my 90 I use a hang on back hagen #110 428gph a fluval 404 340gph canister in the return line I have a 300 watt in line heater a couple of power heads it works for me.
 

turningtim

Active Member
Joy, there are several different types of tanks, RR= reef ready this has overflows/returns built-in the the tank. This moves the water from display tank to sump or sump/fuge under the stand. Then you have a tank just 4 glass walls. With these you need an overflow that hangs on the back of your tank and also return lines back from the S/F. Then you have custom drilled tanks but we'll save that for later.....
Go to a LFS (local fish store) and you will see black overflows inside the tank itself, these are RRs. Never had one but I believe they are easier to set up. They are also a bit more expensive.
Keep the Q's coming! You're doing GREAT!
Tim
Oh yea, craigslist or the famous auction site are great resources!
 

daninct

Member
I don't think anyone mentioned location. Bigger is nice but don't forget to check out where you want the tank. Once it is set up it can't easily be moved like a lazy boy recliner that lost its appeal. In my family room where we have the display tank I could only comfortably put in a 72 BF and in the basement rec room my 55 fits very well and comes in handy as the QT tank.
If you go very large check out the location for easy access, window lighting, floor weight, and so on.
I am new so I am going FOWLR and after I build up some expertise I will do coral and such so I did not go for the lighting, refugium, and so on as of yet. THey can all come later as I build up the budget and knowledge. IMO If you think you will go that way then sure, get the right tank (pre drilled or acrylic vs glass issues) but you don't have to use it all day one.
 

turningtim

Active Member
daninct, VERY good point! If placeing the tank on joist supported floor (not cement). You should try and run the tank perpendicular to the joists, rather than parallel. B/c you will more of the weight distributed across more joists then placeing all the weight on one or two.
Remember that water weighs about 8+ lbs per gallon + rock +sand +glass........
 

happyvac

Member
If you're good with building things like sumps or stands, or even if you're willing to learn, check out the DIY section. You could save hundreds with a larger tank, especially if you choose to DIY Live Rock. (That will, however, require some seeding from quality Live Rock, which is a fairly long process)
Check your local classifieds and that auction site as well. Used equipment can be a great boon
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Min tank size I would start with would be a 75....55's are nice, but the 75 will be a little more forgiving and easier to aquascape as the 55's are quite narrow......You might want to look at used tanks, because you can save a good sum of money if you find what your looking for......A big key to the hobby with the expense issue is to research, research and research and then buy.........
An important piece of equipment that would be on the top of my list is an RO/DI unit.....You can have the fancy, best skimmer and lights in the world, but without good water to start you open the door for headaches.....A sump doesn't have to be big, fancy or anything of that nature....If your a DIY or have a friend or 2 that are handy you can save yourself cash again by building items yourself and it's 2 fold if you know what I mean.....You can do a sump out of a simple rubbermaid container you can get at Walmart or go something fancy like PM (Precision Marine) or even nicer MRC sumps and such and there are others out there.....A skimmer is a very key item as well....Regardless reef, FO tank all tanks can benefit from a skimmer and that is one area you shouldn't skimp on.....Again your choices are numerous, but you have to decided on what type of skimmer best suits your skimming needs? Wet skim, dry skim, ease of operation and use, and how much do you want to adjust the skimmer as well??? These things all need to be taken into consideration and don't be fooled if someone tells you this is a better skimmer because you don't have to adjust, and there are never 2 tanks alike, so what works for 1 might not work for you or I.
Lighting is debateable.....I wouldn't buy junk lights or nothing like that, but would again need to know what your goal or plans are for your tank and yes MH's will allow you to keep just about anything, but then comes costs and there are ways around that as well.....
 
X

xoxox

Guest
Sorry, but a 120 for a beginner will cost more than $1500. Most people upgrade at some time and when they do they bring equiptment to the new tank they already had. To start from scratch means you have to purchase EVERYTHING and its the little things that cost. Even if you DIY to the max, you'll still need salt and sand and rock and test kits (refractometer anyone?) RO water, pumps, lights, skimmer, heater, even surge protectors and GFIC (unless you want to take a chance of getting shocked). I'm not trying to discourage you but you need to think about these things in relation to tank size. A 75 gallon would be my advice, starting out with what you MUST have for it and work from there.
 

fishtk75

Member
The heaters I have and gone with two heaters.
I read and was told and it was good thinking that is how many watts it is to heat the tank divide it by 2 and go two heaters.
Say it 300 watts for the tank go with 2-150 heaters.
The reason is heaters are cheap and go bad so if one goes out you have that second one there to backup and that is cheap insurance like they say better safe then sorry I had one go out on me in the winter and running out to the store in the snow storm was not fun.
 

anonome

Active Member
Originally Posted by XoXoX
Sorry, but a 120 for a beginner will cost more than $1500. Most people upgrade at some time and when they do they bring equiptment to the new tank they already had. To start from scratch means you have to purchase EVERYTHING and its the little things that cost. Even if you DIY to the max, you'll still need salt and sand and rock and test kits (refractometer anyone?) RO water, pumps, lights, skimmer, heater, even surge protectors and GFIC (unless you want to take a chance of getting shocked). I'm not trying to discourage you but you need to think about these things in relation to tank size. A 75 gallon would be my advice, starting out with what you MUST have for it and work from there.
I am glad to see that someone has mentioned about surge protectors....I had an electrician come in to run a seperate line for my 125g. reef tank. You would be surprised how much electricity all of the "necessities" pull. Have your tank plugged in with the rest of the things in the room, TV etc. , you may be asking for trouble. Just something to think about. Because now is the time to get your ideas on paper. You are smart to do this now. I agree, that you should go with at least a 75g. Good luck and welcome into the "clan". :jumping: This hobby is rewarding if thought out. Just remember to quarantine everything! You can stop near wipe outs with this practice. I had to learn the hard way.
 

fishtk75

Member
joyful23
You need a list and write all things down and and put a price to it an add it up.
Plan and picture how tank for the rocksand gravel setup in side so you know how much to buy.
tank reef ready- over flow box in from factory
stand
lights
timers
rocks
gravel
2-heaters =2 half the size of one to do the job
return pump
sump tank
hoses or tubing
skimmer
power head and wave maker for power heads
power strips with GFI
r/o di water filter
salt mixs
power head-heater and container to mix salt
salt salinity tester- a refactometer is best
water tests-ph/ammonia/nitrite/nitrates/calcium and so on
buckets only for fish tank
net
flood alarm on floor by tank
I will miss something you get the idea.
And as everyone said to me read read read books before you buy and go and look around at prices.
Have a list for maintence for each month to check each thing.
 

joyful23

Member
I have started making a list of things I will need, but am still very confused on the lighting, overflow, etc. I understand about the LR and LS, heaters, powerheads and such but the others are still confusing me.
 

fishtk75

Member
Originally Posted by Joyful23
I have started making a list of things I will need, but am still very confused on the lighting, overflow, etc. I understand about the LR and LS, heaters, powerheads and such but the others are still confusing me.

The light depends if you are doing fish only not so much light needed a reef needs alot of light 75 gal min of 500 watts thats way I have on my 75 2-250 Mh and 2-110 VHO
I had 4-65 PC put was not good enough for my corals I have they are growing better now.
Overflow is the box the factory put in the back of the tank for the water to down to the sump from 11/4" to 2' the factory can tell you how many GPH it designed for so you can pick a pump so you do not get one too big that it can not handle.
And the ETC please tell us all what else.
 

joyful23

Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
What would you like to know?
I don't understand about skimmers...is this connected to the filtering system someway or is it a stand alone thing? Now for filtering...I don't understand this at all. I have had freshwater in the past so I know about regular hang-on-the-back filters, but as far as the pipes coming out and all that, I haven't a clue. :notsure: I usually catch on pretty quickly if I can just see a diagram or picture or something. I'm one of those who need to see it or do it to learn! LOL. As far as lighting goes, I think I "get" MH lighting, meaning I understand that it's best if you want corals, etc. (which eventually I do) But, do some people use like half MH half another type? If you have a 72" tank do you need to buy 72" lighting kit? Do you need blowers with MH lighting? and on and on. My questions are endless, but I am being patient and reading my little heart out! :cheer: I am on my third book, conscientious marine aquariast and I have started to get on here and read all the post. I just want to take my time and do it right. From what I see on here, I think too many are getting in a big hurry and not being patient enough. I'm usually not a very patient person, but I know this is going to require ALOT of patients!!!
 

joyful23

Member
Originally Posted by fishtk75
The light depends if you are doing fish only not so much light needed a reef needs alot of light 75 gal min of 500 watts thats way I have on my 75 2-250 Mh and 2-110 VHO
I had 4-65 PC put was not good enough for my corals I have they are growing better now.
Overflow is the box the factory put in the back of the tank for the water to down to the sump from 11/4" to 2' the factory can tell you how many GPH it designed for so you can pick a pump so you do not get one too big that it can not handle.
And the ETC please tell us all what else.
Dumb question here...what is VHO and how does it differ from MH? And the sump is what? I know, Iknow...I'm clueless. What is GPH? and ETC? :notsure:
 

joyful23

Member
Originally Posted by Joyful23
Dumb question here...what is VHO and how does it differ from MH? And the sump is what? I know, Iknow...I'm clueless. What is GPH? and ETC? :notsure:
OH!!!!!!!!! ETC!!!!!!!!! ecetera!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gosh....I'm still half asleep this moring!
I need to take a shower and wake up!!!
 
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