Snake's 75g build thread

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I have a new keyboard. Just nothing to report.
I got a heck of splinter in my finger while cleaning an alligator. Now the whole knuckle is swollen with God knows what kind of bacteria. Hurts to type.
I didn't get to re-aquascape the tank. I have to get my ducks in a row and get some more time then what I was given last weekend. I don't want to have to stop in the middle of the project if I can get time to do the whole thing.
I am still experimenting with taking photos with the LED lights on. I find that I am actually getting better photos if I use the flash. But, if I use the flash, the stand and led light shows up. I guess the next best thing to do is to just edit the image... crop out the parts I don't want seen.
.....
As a side note, a friend of mine gave me two new SPS frags today. Both of them are Montipora digitata. I got a purple one and a green one... I don't know their specific variety,... but they do look pretty. Their polyps have already come out and showing their colors. very nice.
One of the old frags flesh is turning green and is showing signs of blue polyps with a blue tip. Starting to become really pretty.
I do have to start dosing some more calcium and alkalinity and start getting on a good dosing regimen. My alkalinity is a little low at 2.3mEQ/L and calcium is about 450ppm. I would like alkalinity to get up to 3.5mEQL^-1 as I keep dosing. I really do need to get some more baking soda at the store soon. I'm running a bit low.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
Seth, I'm looking at the Apex Jr. online and I have a few questions about it that maybe you could answer for me:
1) It says there are 4 independently controlled outlets- are they timed outlets or just on/off? It comes with a temperature probe, so do you match an outlet with a probe and once the probe hits a set parameter it trips the switch?
2) It comes w/ 2 Aquabus Ports- are these ports for additional probes?
3) Maximum # of modules: 5 - What is considered a module?
I've browsed the website and these are still questions I have. I will do some more research, but it would be great if you could help me understand this thing. At this point I'd really like to control heaters and a Calcium reactor and monitor ORP. I can't imagine having to do much more than that, so if that can be accomplished with this controller then I might bite the bullet.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric B 125 http:///t/392906/snakes-75g-build-thread/920#post_3525144
Seth, I'm looking at the Apex Jr. online and I have a few questions about it that maybe you could answer for me:
1) It says there are 4 independently controlled outlets- are they timed outlets or just on/off? It comes with a temperature probe, so do you match an outlet with a probe and once the probe hits a set parameter it trips the switch?
2) It comes w/ 2 Aquabus Ports- are these ports for additional probes?
3) Maximum # of modules: 5 - What is considered a module?
I've browsed the website and these are still questions I have. I will do some more research, but it would be great if you could help me understand this thing. At this point I'd really like to control heaters and a Calcium reactor and monitor ORP. I can't imagine having to do much more than that, so if that can be accomplished with this controller then I might bite the bullet.
You can program it on your home internet through a router - or a wireless adapter. Very easy programming.
1. Each outlet is independently controlled and monitored. You can change around what an outlet actually does. The outlets come pre-programmed, but lets say, as in my case, my LED unit has it's own controller. I re-programmed my "light" outlet to turn the solenoid on and off on my calcium reactor, depending on the pH reading. If the temp gets too high, you can program whatever outlet you want to turn off - usually it's the lights... but you can also have it programmed where if it gets to hot, you can make it kick a fan on. Or, you can set multiple outlets to do multiple things as the temp changes or the pH changes. It's all independently controlled.
2. The aquabus ports, I think, are for the USB ports... in which case, you can link multiple "modules" together. The only module you will need for the Apex Jr. really is the PM1 module, which has the pH probe hookup and an additional temperature probe hookup if needed. The modules contain the hookups for different probes besides the temperature probe... such as salinity, dissolved oxygen, pH, etc.
3. A module is an additional little piece of hardware that you can buy that has a hookup for anything you want to monitor - like your pH (PM1 module) or your salinity, or your dissolved oxygen levels, etc. I was a little dissatisfied that it wasn't clear that the Apex Jr. unit does not come automatically with the ability to monitor pH through a pH probe - so if you have a calcium reactor and your want your Apex to monitor it, you will need the PM1 module. The breakout box also has the ability to act as an ATO system that can be monitored by your APEX. I also like the water on floor sensors... I will definitely be adding those to it later on
I like the fact that it can serve as insurance and add some redundancy to the system. When it's hooked to the internet, I like the fact that I can be at work or in school and look on my iPhone to make sure that my tank is "behaving."
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Eric, you have some medical training... what's the best way to treat an infected wound??? I have multiple mosquito bites that have gotten infected and have taken weeks to heal even the slightest bit. I also really hurt my finger today while working on an alligator.... Should it be as simple as some tripple antibiotic? Because I have been using that for about a week now and it's not getting any better.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
Thanks for the detailed response buddy. They seem like a neat little gadget to have, but I'm still not sure I would really need one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392906/snakes-75g-build-thread/920#post_3525147
Eric, you have some medical training... what's the best way to treat an infected wound??? I have multiple mosquito bites that have gotten infected and have taken weeks to heal even the slightest bit. I also really hurt my finger today while working on an alligator.... Should it be as simple as some tripple antibiotic? Because I have been using that for about a week now and it's not getting any better.
Assuming you have cleaned and dressed your wounds, you most likely need to be put on an antibiotic. You know how nasty gators are- they are filthy. You're best bet would be to have a doctor look at you. This is the kind of stuff that people loose limbs over.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siptang http:///t/392906/snakes-75g-build-thread/920#post_3525535
Seth - how is your vinegar experiment coming along?
Haven't seen any negative results so far. My skimmer is going crazy though. I guess that's a good thing.
I haven't really messed with the tank all that much this last week other then the usual maintenance and going on's. Been staying busy with a little wood work that I needed to get done for a client and prepping for next semester and all these family get togethers. lol
The tank and the corals look like they are doing great though. One of my browned out sps corals is starting to color up with some green skin and blue tips. I really like it.
My alkalinity is being used very quickly - so I have had to make additional supplements to the tank other then kalkwasser.
 
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siptang

Guest
calcium reactor bro. ;)
Once you start noticing everything growing out, your calcium/alk will deplete in very inconsistent downward direction.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Didnt have it plumbed right the first time. I finally bought the parts today to plumb it in right to get consistent flow. It will be set up in the morning and ill play with it tomorrow.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I just pulled the calcium reactor off the tank and cleaned it in the sink. Man, did that thing smell like rotten eggs. But, I got it all taken care of and cleaned the media and the inside of the chamber and ran a few gallons of RO/DI water through it so it's as clean as it is going to get for the time being. I am using an Azoo pump for it. I got the plumbing parts for it this evening and put it all together. woohoo!!!
Anyways, I think while I have the opportunity, I am going to get it installed on the tank with the pumps running without the CO2 going - or at least on very, very, very slow. I'll probably be too nauseous to actually leave it on tonight. lol
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I know that. Lol.
I turned the co2 on this morning and went to lunch. Lol. Ill go home and check the ca and alk.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
To chime in a salinity or dissolved oxygen probe needs the PM2 or PM3 module. They can't run on the PM1 module.
The aquabus ports are similar to usb ports but don't use them as usb ports for connecting the unit to other stuff or you'll fry the unit.
Honestly when you put the jr and full version side by side you don't save any money in the long run.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I just need the pm1 module for the pH probe. I am not that curious about DO. Salinity is easy to check with a refractometer. Though, the water on floor sensors are pretty awesome.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I was just saying that would be the only other thing that I would add to my little unit. I'd get the PM1 module and later on down the line maybe the breakout box - but I don't really need the other probes. I'm happy with what I have. Maybe on my next tank, if it is any larger than a 125, I might invest in the full Apex and put the Apex Jr. on a smaller tank or use it for my classroom tank.
I installed all the plumbing to get my calcium reactor back online. I have completely cleaned it and run it with fresh RO/DI water in the sink to get the pipes clean and to check for leaks. There weren't any leaks after an hour of running, so I put it on the system and ran it over night without the CO2 on. This morning I tested my alkalinity and it was at 3.0mEQ/L and I turned the CO2 on and re-tested this afternoon at about 3pm and it was at 3.1mEQ/L. I just re-tested my water parameters tonight at 10pm and it is till at 3.1mEQ/L. Calcium is holding steady at 460ppm. I did not test magnesium levels.
I cleaned the tank up quite a bit. I rearranged my rock work. I didn't do a complete overhaul of it yet like I want to do next weekend by building some "bases" out of base rock for the live rock to sit on top of. I kind of like the configuration that I have right now... looks pretty nice. Since I moved the rocks more towards the center of the tank I was able to get my Kent glass scraper to the corners and clean the coralline off the overflow box. Looks a lot better now! The coralline was starting to take over everything - I love my new long handled scraper. I don't like to get my hands in the tank if I can help it.
My electrical system is getting kind of complex. I guess I need to zip tie everything that I can and label the electrical cords so that I know what everything is. I now have three things plugged into my Apex unit... a heater, a refugium light and the solenoid to the calcium reactor. It's running, even though I don't have the module yet. It will be configured to run properly once I get the module. I just have to fool with zip tieing everything in place.
Another problem I am having is the amount of vinyl hose going everywhere!! I have a line to my top off, two lines to and from my calcium reactor, two lines from each tlf phosphate reactors and the skimmer air line. Lots and lots of vinyl tubing. It's growing as fast as my macroalgae is growing! lol
Oh yeah, that reminds me, yes, I did add a second phosphate reactor - and I filled it with about two cups of carbon. I'll run it for about 30 days. I have to replace the little piece of PVC plumbing and rearrange some stuff, but for the most part it's where it all should be and doing it's job. I just wish it looked a little nicer/cleaner like some of those guys on RC and other forums.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
By the way, I got my new photon unit on 6-20-13 and it's still running. I have everything maxing out at 35% still. I think I am going to go up about 5% per week and see how everything does as it goes along.
With the new light, stable temp and salinity and now keeping up with calcium and alkalinity demand, I am having to fight off coralline algae. lol. I like the sides and surfaces of my tank to stay as clean as possible. I am, however, noticing a little bit of brown/green algae on my powerheads, which is easily taken care of. My newly washed and cleaned powerheads are starting to grow coralline algae again. It's not a bad problem to have, really. I am happy with the results so far with this new light and I am glad that I am getting my tank back in order like I wanted it originally.
Today is a Sunday, so I am going to up the lights by 5% every Sunday from here on out. I hope to have them turned up pretty high by the time MACNA rolls around - so I can start adding some high end SPS frags. :D
 

kkgaskin90

Member
Following- I think you've pretty much convinced us to get the photon light - I'll be interested to see what changes you notice as you go up
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkgaskin90 http:///t/392906/snakes-75g-build-thread/920#post_3525667
Following- I think you've pretty much convinced us to get the photon light - I'll be interested to see what changes you notice as you go up
Thanks for following. My tank is not much to look at compared to a lot of others on this site and elsewhere in the forums, ... but I am persistent.
I'm glad you went with the photon series. It's a great fixture and I am happy with it 100%. I'm actually finding zoanthids on some of my rocks that I didn't even know were present until they floresce under the leds. I just saw that you have a 29g tank... just be very careful about how you introduce your corals to the lights... They are a lot more powerful then you think... and you can "burn" them if your not careful with how high you ramp them up. Make sure you start light acclimating your corals by only ramping up the unit to 30% and then go up 5% per week from there. When you get new corals, you will also have to acclimate them by placing them on the sandbed or even under a rock bridge for them to get used to the PAR that these lights put out.
 
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