Snake's Guide to Cycling

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Snake's Guide to Cycling your saltwater aquarium.
Cycling a saltwater aquarium is perhaps one of the most looked over subjects to new saltwater aquarists. Many people think that they can start their aquarium and put fish in it the same day. This is definitely not the case. Once the new hobbyist kills a few fish per the live fish stores recommendations, they get wise and start to research threads like this.
So, congraduations! You have just made the first step towards a stable and successfull saltwater aquarium! By the end of this article you will be able to cycle your aquarium fully and successfully without any loss of fish.
If you are coming to this thread because you have already killed a few fish, which is not unlikely, and you still have fish in your tank, please remove them from your aquarium for the time being so that you don't unnecessarily kill your fish. Generally, live fish stores should take back the fish that they have sold you for store credit.
Cycling starts in stages. Lets first talk about the chemical side of cycling. When you start your aquarium with your live rock and live sand and new saltwater, you should add a small piece of raw shrimp to your aquarium to let it decompose. The decomposition process will leach ammonia into your tank. Ammonia is what is produced by all decaying organic matter in an aquarium. Ammonia is very toxic to fish at levels of 1ppm or higher. Why ammonia is so harmful to fish is because it eats up their gills. Ammonia is broken down into nitrite by a type of bacteria. Nitrite is not as toxic to fish as ammonia. Nitrite is then broken down into Nitrate by another type of bacteria. This is an aerobic process. So, to recap - Decaying matter breaks down into ammonia, then into nitrite, then into nitrate.
New tanks can look really prestine! New live rock, new saltwater and new sand will all look really clean. There will be no algae, no diatoms, no red algaes. But, as time progresses your tank will go through several stages. When nitrite begins to show, you will see some diatoms start to grow. Diatoms will appear to be short brown algae that will grow all over your rocks, sand and sometimes glass. Diatoms are caused by silicates. When the silicates are all completely used up the diatoms will disappear. And then you think you are in the clear - but you aren't just yet. There will be a progression of green algaes. The first is usually green slime algae, which will appear all over your rocks and glass. This is usually when your nitrates appear. As your tank progresses and your tank builds up nitrate and phosphates from feedings you will see a progression of green hair algae and then when your tank becomes more stable and even more clean through the use of filtration devices, water changes and husbandry your tank will start to develop coralline algae under adequate lighting. So, to recap, Diatoms to green slime algae to hair algae to coralline algae.
The process of cycling takes around 30 days to complete. After the day you add a small piece of raw shrimp, your cycling process starts. After one week, test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Write down your results. Keep testing every five to seven days thereafter. your tank has not completely cycled until there is no ammonia and no nitrites.
The raw shrimp method is not the only method, but it is the cheapest and the safest. For the purposes of the article, I will include both the fish cycling method and the plain raw ammonia method - and if you are interested in these two ways to cycle a tank, please research them before you use them.
In Summation, Ammonia breaks down into nitrite and nitrite breaks down into nitrate. When in the nitrite stage, you will see diatoms. In the nitrate stage, you will see green slime algae and other various algaes. When there is no more ammonia and nitrite then your tank is cycled. This process takes anywhere from one week to thirty days. Once your tank is cycled, add one or two small peaceful fish such as chromis, damsels or clownfish. Add one fish every week or two until your fully stocked. While your tank is being stocked, it will undergo various stages of algaes until your tank balances out, establishes a bacteria and microfauna population.
 

rickross23

Active Member
May I add to remove the damsels under the peaceful part at the end of the article? They're NOT peaceful.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Snake does excellent articles. Trust every thing he says.
Beaslbob is just crazy.
Crazy enough to add macro algae right from that start.
You see those crazy macros consume ammonia directly preventing the dangerous parameter spikes as the aerobic bacteria build up.
then once the ammonia is bacteria controlled the macros are forced to use the resulting nitrates for nitrogen and nitrates drop down.
Just like snake says in about 30 days.
So the crazy beaslbob starts the tank with macro algae.
then waits a week.
Then adds a single male molly
then does not add food for a week.
Then adds a couple of females and starts feeding a single flake per day.
after a few weeks you can harvest the mollies, return them to the lfs for credit toward a true marine fish.
Or just keep the mollies and add the marine fish.
meanwhile no ammonia or nitrIte spikes.
minimum algaes if any.
live rock, live sand, filters, and water changes optional.
so like I said that beaslbob is just plain crazy.
worth at most .02
 
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zaracatani

New Member
This is one good information. I love cycling as well and this tips can help me improve what I'm lacking to do.
 
i stated a new tank and wanted to refresh my memory on everything, let me tell you this is very simple to understand and help full thank you snake..
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Thanks man. Every now and then I see one of these articles pop up and it kinda makes me happy that people still read them.
 

Will H.

New Member
WOW, Impressed bro! thank you very much. i am still going down the list of articles but quick question for you, The fish store that got me started 2 weeks ago recommended crushed coral and live rock, so i have about 10lbs of live rock and 15lbs of crushed coral in a 29g biocube. Diatoms just appeared 3 days ago and are starting to go crazy (i now know this isnt such a bad thing, i was starting to freak out). I have been told in this forum that i need to go to live sand... My question is, will the coraline algae move into my crushed coral or should i just pull the crushed coral and replace with live sand?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
You can go with live sand only. There isnt a problem. I have in the past put 2" of crushed coral down first and then 3" of live sand on top and it worked just as well, if not better than a 2" sandbed. It just depends on what you want, honestly.

Crushed coral does build up waste over time but it is a lot easier to keep clean with a gravel vac if you use it. I like the look of live sand personally. The meiofauna in the sandbed that manages waste is amazing.
 

bang guy

Moderator
Someone way back when did the math on substrate surface areas. This is the area available for bacteria to colonize.

Crushed coral had about the surface area of a large bedroom. That's pretty awesome.

A 1/2" sand bed had about the same surface area as a basketball court.
 

Will H.

New Member
Wow, the surface area makes a lot of sense, and that's pretty amazing. I'm going to go with the sand bed now.
 

Kristin1234

Active Member
Hi Snake.

I have a question. I have had my sand, live rock and water all running for a couple of weeks. Last week I added a little damsel and he was doing great, then I went out of town and came back and found him dead, I had a good amount of evaporation and he got caught in the overflow tray. :( Poor guy. My question is should I leave him in there to ensure a proper cycle has occured? Is he so much different than the raw shrimp you suggested? I have small amount of green slime algae and had a small spike of ammonia of .25 and did a water change and we are back at zero. Is it safe to say my tank has cycled?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Hi Kristin,

Congrats on the new tank! If I were you, I would leave the damsel in there to rot. The body composition is not that much different from a piece of shrimp. I would let the ammonia spike up to 1.0ppm and then remove the damsels body from the system and let the tank naturally come back down from the spike - without a water change.

I would continue to ghost feed the system (pretend like you have a fish in there) for about a week and then check ammonia, nitrite and nitrate again. If the ammonia and nitrite is zero after that week, your tank is cycled and you can add another small fish that might not be as aggressive - such as clownfish, firefish, or gobies.
 

Kristin1234

Active Member
Hi Kristin,

Congrats on the new tank! If I were you, I would leave the damsel in there to rot. The body composition is not that much different from a piece of shrimp. I would let the ammonia spike up to 1.0ppm and then remove the damsels body from the system and let the tank naturally come back down from the spike - without a water change.

I would continue to ghost feed the system (pretend like you have a fish in there) for about a week and then check ammonia, nitrite and nitrate again. If the ammonia and nitrite is zero after that week, your tank is cycled and you can add another small fish that might not be as aggressive - such as clownfish, firefish, or gobies.
Awesome! Thanks!
 
After you out the shrimp in there, do you take it out? And is there somethig else you can use, instead of shrimp? I know some people cycle with pure ammonia.
 
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