Snake's Methods for Aquarium Maintenance

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Snake's Methods for Aquarium Maintenance
This is just my personal guideline as to what I do and check for when I maintain my (or someone elses) aquarium. Different systems require different checks. I do not use all of the equipment that one can put on a tank, therefore I can not tell you what the maintenance is on every single piece of equipment.
Daily:

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I count the fish, corals, and inverts. If something is missing, then I have to find it. If a fish is dead, it should be gotten out of the tank.
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General look and feel. Does everything look healthy, out, open, and swimming around?
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Look at the fish for any sign of irregularities. At the first sign of disease, I can pull them out and put them in a hospital tank to be treated.
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Feed the fish, corals, and inverts what I normally would.
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Observe to see if timers are turning everything on and off at the proper times and make adjustments as necessary.
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Top offs
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Empty skimmer cup and clean it.
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Assess to see if a water change is needed, if water quality is in balance then I wait.
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Weekly:

I check the salinity, Nitrate, Phosphate, calcium and alkalinity and make adjustments to it as needed.
I check the power cords and equipment for signs of rust and erosion
I wipe down my lighting's glass and clean it
I wipe down my tanks glass, inside and out.
I use a turkey baster to blow/dust off all of the rocks and let it get caught by the filtration system.
I replace half of my filters with fresh filters, or rinse my old filters out in tap water.
I check the air valve to the skimmer to make sure it's working properly and unclogged.
I scrub half of my algae scrubber clean.
I check to make sure all the pumps and powerheads are still working properly.[*]
I check that the GFCI unit still works.
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Test my water to see if my chemical balances are correct and adjust them as necessary
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If chemical balances are not correct, I make up a 20% water change.
Monthly:

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I do a full range test, excluding ammonia and nitrite. Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, Phosphate, Nitrate, salinity. If needed, I make adjustments.
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I dose Kent's Essential Elements in the water to add trace elements back to the water (including iron) which helps my corals and algae scrubber to grow strong.
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Assess water quality and determine if water change is applicable. If detritus is building up in sump, then a good siphoning is in order.
Every 3 months:

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I replace the CFL bulbs on my algae scrubber.
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Lightly disturb the sandbed and prepare for a 20% water change if water quality or chemical balance is off.
Every Six Months

I replace any bulbs that look like they are yellowing or outdated
I'll assess my water quality and compare it to my corals growth patterns and determine if a water change is necessary. If not I proceed onward...
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Every year:

I assess my water quality and determine if a water change is applicable. If my aquarium is looking decent, and I am getting good growth patterns and my water quality is fine, I'll assess it again in another six months to determine if a water change is necessary.
I'll change bulbs that are burnt out or yellowing
re-check all of my equipment
Stir some stuff up in the tank to prevent old tank syndrome
re-arrange / frag corals
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I do not believe in constant daily or weekly water changes, but constant water quality checks and balances to assess if water changes are needed. Calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, and trace elements can all be dosed in a tank. Salinity can always be kept constant with top offs, Sometimes, salinity will rise because of dosing two part solutions, and therefore, some saltwater will have to be taken out and be topped off with freshwater.
Nitrate and phosphate can always be reduced by algae scrubbers and protein skimming. Therefore, I don't do water changes to reduce nitrate and phosphate because my nitrate and phosphate are usually zero. This is just my experience, and all the water change information I have presented here may or may not work for you. Through experience, you will learn what works best for your tank.
If you would like to read more of my articles and threads, please visit this link: Snake's Methods.
 

ivasawajin

Member
i believe you about the water changing part , its so old school and unnecessary in big well established tanks
 

mikeo5422

Member
Hey snake I really like this post and would like to know more. What kind of setup and livestock do you have?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Hey Mike! Sorry I am just now noticing that someone posted on this thread. To answer your question(s)...
This is my build thread for my current tank: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/387674/snakes-20g-nano-build-thread
I also have had a lot of saltwater aquariums over my career, and taken care of many others. My first tank I set up was a little over 6 years ago. It was a 20g too. Then I moved on to a 90g show tank with a 16g sump. Then I bought six 55g tanks and set up an aquaculture / growout / experimentation system. I gathered some equipment to breed clownfish and grew out three clowns, but didn't have the time to continue breeding. From there I set up several tanks for friends and clients. Then, I started a live fish store in 2008, where I ran 44, 30g holding tanks, two 135g squares, two 55g liverock tanks, and a 240g reef tank. I had quite a few clients at the time, freshwater, saltwater, and turtle tanks that I maintained. I closed my store and sold most of my tanks and equipment, but I've kept up with enough equipment for a 20g tank. I just was financially able to start up a 20g nano tank again a few months ago.
I have several freshwater aquariums that I maintain for clients, and I have three saltwater aquariums that I maintain for other clients. One of my clients tanks I take weekly pics of and post the shots in. Here's the link: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388488/progress-shots-of-110g-show-tank
In the next couple of years, I am going back to school at the University of Southern Mississippi to get a Bachelors and Masters degree in Marine Biology. I hope to also obtain a Doctorate of Marine Biology one day.
 
S

smallreef

Guest
So,, I'd like to mention that IF you take pictures every 6 months or so it really helps to put into perspective how much everything is growing.. Looking at it everyday we may notice it but not really realize how much stuff grows. I look back now at pictures of my first tank and my triggers to the pictures I took just before I had to tear it down and they were like 2 inches long when I got them and almost 4 years later over 8 inches :) (with their tails but that made them soooo pretty)
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Lol. I just assumed that most people's second hobby is photography.... Taking pics of their fish. I didn't list it because it's not truly a part of maintenance.
 

mikeo5422

Member
Thanks for the info. I'm going to setup a salt tank for my father and I would really like to include an algae scrubber because I know he is going to miss or go very late on his water changes. Anything to help him with his nitrates would be really beneficial.
I currently have a 12G nano and I would love to setup a scrubber...its not really necessary but i think it would be cool...you know how it is :)! I just cant work out how to get the water pumped from my tiny tank down to the floor and back up again without setting up a huge pump that will blow my rocks over.
Also, do you know how much surface area the scrubber needs in comparison to the tank size?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Mike,
You may find this thread interesting: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388776/snakes-methods
Specifically these two threads:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388857/snakes-method-for-building-an-algae-scrubber
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388858/snakes-method-for-algae-scrubber-basics
Let me go ahead and say that algae scrubbers do not eliminate the need for water changes. Algae scrubbers need to be cleaned once a week, like clockwork. If the scrubber is left too long without a cleaning, the algae underneath will die from lack of light and will not be effective at removing waste. So, being lazy with water changes is ok, as long as ya'll aren't lazy cleaning the scrubber screen.
 

wen tom

Member
Mike,
You may find this thread interesting: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388776/snakes-methods
Specifically these two threads:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388857/snakes-method-for-building-an-algae-scrubber
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388858/snakes-method-for-algae-scrubber-basics
Let me go ahead and say that algae scrubbers do not eliminate the need for water changes. Algae scrubbers need to be cleaned once a week, like clockwork. If the scrubber is left too long without a cleaning, the algae underneath will die from lack of light and will not be effective at removing waste. So, being lazy with water changes is ok, as long as ya'll aren't lazy cleaning the scrubber screen.
If you don't have an algae scrubber, is a protien skimmer sufficient? I know they do way different things so I guess the question is. . . how important is it?
 
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