SPS Care

the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
I just bought three SPS yesterday (Digit, Pink BN, and Green BN) I would love for these SPS to survive and thrive. They are in my 40g BR with a 250w MH with Ice Cap Ballast and 14k bulb for lighting. I do between a 5-10g WC each week. If not I make up for it the next week. Tank temp runs between 77-80. Did a water check with an API test kit
Ammonia - 0
Phosphates - 0
Nitrates - 0
dKH - 8
Calcium - Couldnt take an accurate measurment.
Ph - 8.2
Along with these three SPS, I have:
Frogspawn
Torch,
6 small colonies of Zoos
Many patches of GSP
Shrooms
Trumpets
Goniporia
Ricordia
All these corals are thriving and spreading. Most are also frags. The LPS have a between 2-5 heads. The SPS have opened their polyps and the I saw the Digits feeding tenticles last night.
I will like if anyone could recommend what I would need:
For dosing, brands would be good.
For measuring, testing brands would be good
And a rough cost est. would be awesome.
I will be coming into some money soon so I would like to put it towards dosing chemicals and testing kits.
If you cant list, PM me please.
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
Originally Posted by The_Bandit
http:///forum/post/3202615
I just bought three SPS yesterday (Digit, Pink BN, and Green BN) I would love for these SPS to survive and thrive. They are in my 40g BR with a 250w MH with Ice Cap Ballast and 14k bulb for lighting. I do between a 5-10g WC each week. If not I make up for it the next week. Tank temp runs between 77-80. Did a water check with an API test kit
Ammonia - 0
Phosphates - 0
Nitrates - 0
dKH - 8
Calcium - Couldnt take an accurate measurment.
Ph - 8.2
Along with these three SPS, I have:
Frogspawn
Torch,
6 small colonies of Zoos
Many patches of GSP
Shrooms
Trumpets
Goniporia
Ricordia
All these corals are thriving and spreading. Most are also frags. The LPS have a between 2-5 heads. The SPS have opened their polyps and the I saw the Digits feeding tenticles last night.
I will like if anyone could recommend what I would need:
For dosing, brands would be good.
For measuring, testing brands would be good
And a rough cost est. would be awesome.
I will be coming into some money soon so I would like to put it towards dosing chemicals and testing kits.
If you cant list, PM me please.
Are you using the API test kit? If so, get a better one. The Salifert and RedSea Pro are much better.
When you say that you couldn't get an accurate reading, was it too high that it wouldn't read?
If your dKH is at 8 and your calcium is high, try to raise the dKH a little. In a reef tank, you want your dKH to be between 9-12. Mine is usually 10-11 and calcium is 480 (sometimes higher, I have issues with my calcium levels which is why I don't dose that often).
I'd like to see an accurate calcium reading before you dose anything.
For what it's worth, you choose easier SPS to start with, so +1 to you!
I dose my tank with Bright Well's Calcium/Alkalinity Reef Code A and Code B Two Part. I only dose about once a week and always test first. I use Coralife salt mix as well. Each 2L bottle runs me $12.99 at my LFS and it lasts quite a while. I used to use B-IONICS two part system, but found that the bottles were not consistent from one bottle to another.
I'm about to start adding amino acids on the advice of a lot of SPS heads on a local forum. I will let you know how it goes.
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
With the API test kit, I always found the basics like Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, and PH to be pretty accurate. Its Calcium, dKH, and Phosphates to be off.
At my LFS, I see Salifert testing kits and also heard Elos was a good brand that only test Calcium, Magnesium, and Alkalinity. Which ones do I need to buy? I can get a fairly accurate reading of Nitrates, Ammonia and PH with the API so I don't think I need those.
When I tested calcium, you add one drop, shake, and repeat. It said the right amount should be about 22-24 drops. Mine didnt turn the proper color until 32 drops %%
Im not sure specifically which brands my LFS's have but if I cant find Bright Wells, can you list some that would be good? The LFS usually have alot of brands so I'd like to get the best I can afford.
I also have another problem. No RO/DI unit. Ive been using my tap water for about a year now. I condition it with a Seachem Primer. I do know this doesnt make it RO/DI water but I try to do as much as possible. I dont plan on doing a full blown SPS tank but I know RO/DI is the best choice. I am looking constantly on CL for a good deal and have seen a RO/DI unit for $50-$75 but Im waiting for a responce. Will I be ok? I let my water sit for at least 24 hours if not more. I do water changes and top off with this conditioned water.
What does Ammonia Acid do for SPS?
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
Originally Posted by The_Bandit
http:///forum/post/3202695
With the API test kit, I always found the basics like Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, and PH to be pretty accurate. Its Calcium, dKH, and Phosphates to be off.
At my LFS, I see Salifert testing kits and also heard Elos was a good brand that only test Calcium, Magnesium, and Alkalinity. Which ones do I need to buy? I can get a fairly accurate reading of Nitrates, Ammonia and PH with the API so I don't think I need those.
When I tested calcium, you add one drop, shake, and repeat. It said the right amount should be about 22-24 drops. Mine didnt turn the proper color until 32 drops

Im not sure specifically which brands my LFS's have but if I cant find Bright Wells, can you list some that would be good? The LFS usually have alot of brands so I'd like to get the best I can afford.
What does Ammonia Acid do for SPS?
Yeah, API is decent for most tests, but I've found they're calcium to be absolutely terrible.
The Salifert is a great calcium test kit. It is basically the same use as the API, but more accurate. I found that shaking instead of swishing the water roughly didn't give me the best readings because the top never seals right and I kept losing water. This is how a lot of other hobbyists end up testing as well. I would just get the Ca test. Everything else should be fine with the API. I don't test for Magnesium (although I probably should but I also don't dose for it either). Usually people that dose that are the ones that test for it as well. I haven't found a need just yet. I still use the API for the dKH test, but I've also had the LFS test it with the Salifert and Red Sea test kits and they get the same reading. Never ask them to test my phosphates, I trust that the API is right for me because I use two separate phosphate removers.

I like Bright Wells and Kent Marine the best. B-Ionics was absolutely terrible and it's expensive. They seem to be the most consistent and decently priced (although for some reason some LFS's really raise the price on Kent products).
As far as what amino acids do for SPS, honestly, I have no idea. But everyone's tank that I've personally seen that uses the stuff looks amazing. So I'm going to give it a try. I think it basically acts as a "super food" for the SPS and even other corals. My husband has been doing most of the research on it, but my eyes tell me to at least try it
Definitely will let you know how it turns out.
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
I added some stuff about an RO/DI unit if you could fill me in, I'd appreciate it.
I totally didnt even think about swirling the water instead of shaking it. I always got chemicals and water coming out of the tubes

So a Salifert Calcium test kit is all I really need? I will be ok testing for Phosphates and dKh with the API tests?
So for dosing, I only need to dose Alk and Cal? There isnt much else I need to dose that the SPS need? If luck would have it and I can't find Kent or Bright Wells, whats the next best thing? Should I even bother asking my LFS employee's? I am also looking online and they have Kent Marine Tech-CB. Its a 2 part doser for Calcium and Alkalinity. Is this what I should buy?
Yeah, If you could let me know how the Ammonia Acid thing goes, I'd appreciate it.
Also, is 250w MH enough for a 40g BR? The SPS are on a frag rack I made in the upper 1/3 of the tank.
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
I answered in red inside your quote:
Originally Posted by The_Bandit
http:///forum/post/3202712
I added some stuff about an RO/DI unit if you could fill me in, I'd appreciate it.
I also have another problem. No RO/DI unit. Ive been using my tap water for about a year now. I condition it with a Seachem Primer. I do know this doesnt make it RO/DI water but I try to do as much as possible. I dont plan on doing a full blown SPS tank but I know RO/DI is the best choice. I am looking constantly on CL for a good deal and have seen a RO/DI unit for $50-$75 but Im waiting for a responce. Will I be ok? I let my water sit for at least 24 hours if not more. I do water changes and top off with this conditioned water.
You might be okay. What I've learned to be more important is that the water quality is consistent. I use Prime as well, even with RO/DI water. Since you're on a budget for an RO unit, try API's Tap Water Filter - the "doctors" site sells it for $43 - I've seen them cheaper and more expensive, just look online, but that site does run good deals on replacement cartridges. If your water quality is decent, you can get quite a few months out of one cartridge. I used it for my 40G breeder and had no complaints. I even filled my 155 using it (took forever!). If I need water in a crunch, I still use it because it's quick and my water quality is great to begin with. Honestly, I have no noticed any difference between this unit or the big fancy $250 RO/DI unit or store RO/DI.
I totally didnt even think about swirling the water instead of shaking it. I always got chemicals and water coming out of the tubes
I never thought about it either, but it's sooooo much easier
So a Salifert Calcium test kit is all I really need? I will be ok testing for Phosphates and dKh with the API tests? I still do, haven't noticed a difference. I mean, if you start to get low on the chemicals for the dKH test, maybe try something else and see how you like it?
So for dosing, I only need to dose Alk and Cal? There isnt much else I need to dose that the SPS need? If luck would have it and I can't find Kent or Bright Wells, whats the next best thing? Should I even bother asking my LFS employee's? I am also looking online and they have Kent Marine Tech-CB. Its a 2 part doser for Calcium and Alkalinity. Is this what I should buy? That's all I dose for at the moment. Some people go crazy and dose for everything. I'm not a person that's big on dosing. I do a 10-20% water change weekly, and I think that does more than adding a ton of chemicals to the tank. Yes, that is the Kent Marine I'm talking about. I think just about every major company has their own version of the Ca/dKH 2 part system. Some people also do Kalkwasser, I'm afraid of it, LOL. There's a huge risk of crashing your tank if you don't know how to use it properly.
You may not need to dose at all if your Ca and dKH are consistent and at good levels with just water changes. I only use it once a week. When I was using Instant Ocean salt, I was dosing every other day. You just really have to test a lot in the beginning and figure out what you need
Yeah, If you could let me know how the Ammonia Acid thing goes, I'd appreciate it. AMINO acids, ammonia would be a very bad thing
. If it works out (or not) I'm going to post up a thread about it.
Also, is 250w MH enough for a 40g BR? The SPS are on a frag rack I made in the upper 1/3 of the tank. Definitely enough. what K bulbs do you have? 10K's are a little better for growth but 14K's usually give the coral better color so it's a bit of a trade off.
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
I seem to be ok without an RO/DI unit. *Knock on wood* I will still search for one and if the price is right, ill snag it. LPS and softies are fine without pristine water. Lets see how SPS do :)
Once I run out of the API test, I will deffinetly try the other brand.
I'd prefer to not have to dose until these SPS really take off. Im going to be doing a 5-10g water change each week with this tank. How ofter should I check the water levels so I can understand how much Calcium I use?
Sorry AMINO acid
Not a good fast reader.
Right now I am running a 14k bulb. I love the color and the shimmer. Blows my T5's out of the water. No pun intended :D
With the corals I have, all the LPS and softies, do the use calcium as well? Can you judge how much you need to dose by what type of corals you have, their size, and stuff like that? Or is it different for each tank?'
Sorry for the all the questions. I just really want to be sucessful with these SPS.
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
Originally Posted by The_Bandit
http:///forum/post/3202736
I seem to be ok without an RO/DI unit. *Knock on wood* I will still search for one and if the price is right, ill snag it. LPS and softies are fine without pristine water. Lets see how SPS do :) SPS need far better quality than LPS, but you didn't buy any that are crazy hard to care for so you should be okay. See how these do before you try any others. The only other one I'd recommend is a monti cap, red/orange seem to be the easiest. I kept them even under T5's. Another option to test it out, might be to try to get RO water from a local store (I hear Walmart's sell it, there isn't one near me though. Or try to find it at a LFS) You might even want to try bottled water to see if it makes a difference, just to see how good your tap water really is. I live on the other side of the country, so you're on your own with this one. If you lived on LI, I'd tell you that your tap water is fine.
Once I run out of the API test, I will deffinetly try the other brand. That's what I'm waiting for. I test my dKH all the time now, just so I can run out of it quicker, LOL
I'd prefer to not have to dose until these SPS really take off. Im going to be doing a 5-10g water change each week with this tank. How ofter should I check the water levels so I can understand how much Calcium I use? I'd test beginning, middle, end of each week, just to get a good idea for now. If it's a huge swing, you may need to dose to keep it consistent. It's a fine balance, but once you figure it out, it's really easy.
Sorry AMINO acid
Not a good fast reader. LOL, it's ok
Right now I am running a 14k bulb. I love the color and the shimmer. Blows my T5's out of the water. No pun intended :D Oh I know the feeling. When I switched over to MH's I was shocked! T5's will never be on another reef tank in my house! Now when I look at my 14G with lowly PC's, I'm disgusted, LOL
With the corals I have, all the LPS and softies, do the use calcium as well? Can you judge how much you need to dose by what type of corals you have, their size, and stuff like that? Or is it different for each tank?' all corals use a little calcium, but clams and SPS are the big Ca suckers. The more you have, the more likely that you'll need to dose. What salt do you use?
Sorry for the all the questions. I just really want to be sucessful with these SPS. It's better to ask questions than have all your coral die
So a warning, since you're new to SPS. I had read everywhere that SPS needed high flow, so I placed mine like directly in front of my power heads. Great idea, right? WRONG! They died in less than a week. They do need moderately high flow, but it can't be direct flow, it has to be intermittent.
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
When my parents can spare it, I use their filtered drinking water. Its the kind that gets delivered. I havent seen a huge difference but thats only what I can see.
Ill test Thursday, Saturday and Monday since I tested today.
For the first few months I used IO. Then used Coralife. Now Im trying out Kents. I dont see alot of difference in salt.
I have my sps almost in direct flow so thank you for the tip. Its just hard to tell how much flow they are getting when their polyps are so small.
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
.
Originally Posted by The_Bandit
http:///forum/post/3202748
When my parents can spare it, I use their filtered drinking water. Its the kind that gets delivered. I havent seen a huge difference but thats only what I can see.
Then you're probably okay. Just be careful about copper. I forgot to mention that. If you're using tap water, I highly recommend testing for copper.
Ill test Thursday, Saturday and Monday since I tested today. sounds good
For the first few months I used IO. Then used Coralife. Now Im trying out Kents. I dont see alot of difference in salt. How often did you stick with each salt? I've never tried Kents, it's not that readily available here. I've tried IO, Tropic Marin, Tropic Marin Pro, Red Sea and now Coralife. The only one I've noticed any sort of difference with was that colors and polyp extension was not that great with IO. Tropic Marin is a waste of money in my honest opinion.
I have my sps almost in direct flow so thank you for the tip. Its just hard to tell how much flow they are getting when their polyps are so small. See, you read the same thing right? I think people need to clarify when they say "high flow" with these things. I basically blew the skin/polyps right off my purple plasma and birdsnest doing that.
Do you have any polyp extension at all yet? Day one of amino acids: better polyp extension. Maybe there is something to this stuff after all
 
jackri

jackri

Active Member
Just to throw this in.. if you just have a few sps frags -- water changes would probably replace all your losing right now in calcium and essential elements. It doesn't sound like much is being consumed right now anyways.
Also buying 2 part by the gallon is A LOT cheaper than buying a 16 oz bottle -- virtually the same cost (plus some shipping although the drs are running a great shipping deal now).
My .02 but I think your fine without adding anything at this point.
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
Thank you Jackri. I didnt expect to have to dose this early being that they are frags.
No copper in my tap water. I had it tested and we are good. My mantis shrimp would be dead too

I only switched salt the first time because IO wasnt available and like that coralife has a resealable top with the bag sizes. Coralife wasn't available when I had my folks pick me up salt and Kent was the best so Im gonna try this out.
Yup I read the same thing about flow and everywhere it reads "they need lots of flow or they will die!" I assumed they needed a ton and was blasting them. Now I have good flow on them but some indirect as well.
I see good polyp extension on the digit and feeders at night, I guess you could say good on the Green BN too being that all of the green polpys are out, and for the brown (at the moment) BN, there is smaller polyp extension. Nothing huge but there is some.
In other news, a person contacted me about a 4 stage RO/DI unit. $75 for it too. It includes 2 extra filters and has only been used for 6 months. This was the specifications on it:
Pure-Flo II 50 GPD RO unit, Thin Film Composite (TFC) membrane, 1 micron filter cartridge, Carbon block filter cartridge and Deionization Cartridge. 50 Gallons per day RO/DI unit. Item 76002
 
btldreef

btldreef

Moderator
.
Originally Posted by The_Bandit
http:///forum/post/3202953
I only switched salt the first time because IO wasnt available and like that coralife has a resealable top with the bag sizes. Coralife wasn't available when I had my folks pick me up salt and Kent was the best so Im gonna try this out.
Try not to change salts too much. I too, like the Coralife design with the bags. I live on Long Island and in the summer it gets very humid and my salt would always clump before I got through a whole bucket.
I see good polyp extension on the digit and feeders at night, I guess you could say good on the Green BN too being that all of the green polpys are out, and for the brown (at the moment) BN, there is smaller polyp extension. Nothing huge but there is some. Well that's good. None of your pieces are really supposed to have super long crazy polyps (like you'd see on a Millipora). The Green BN and the digi are some of the easiest SPS besides the Monti Cap so you should be good

In other news, a person contacted me about a 4 stage RO/DI unit. $75 for it too. It includes 2 extra filters and has only been used for 6 months. This was the specifications on it:
Pure-Flo II 50 GPD RO unit, Thin Film Composite (TFC) membrane, 1 micron filter cartridge, Carbon block filter cartridge and Deionization Cartridge. 50 Gallons per day RO/DI unit. Item 76002 Awesome. Sounds good. I'm one of those people that thinks any Ro/DI unit is better than nothing, ya know? How readily available are replacement cartridges for you for this model? You don't want to buy something that you're never going to be able to find the parts for (like some no name brands off e bay)
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
After I exhaust this bag of Kent salt Im going back to Coralife or IO.
Well as usual, the RO/DI unit person never contacted me back. I do have plans to buy a new one from the filter guys once I sell my 55g tank. Sad but I'd rather take care of my 40g. Thats basically everything. Mantis/Reef/Fish tank.

Ive been looking at different Calcium and Alkalinity chemicals and found BRS (dot) com. I can get a 2 part starter kit that comes with 1 bag of Alk and Cal that makes 3 gallons, 1 bag that makes 1 gallon of Mag, jugs, and measuring tools all for $50 so I think Im going to buy that. I'd love to get farther into SPS so I think this will be a good investment. Ive heard alot of good stuff about B R S and their products.
Im also buying the Salifert Calcium test

Thank you for all your help BTLDreef. I would be lost without your advice
 
the_bandit

the_bandit

Member
Just an update if anyone wanted to know.
Just sold my 55g for $400 as a full package. Didnt have to part anything out

Waiting to order my Cal/Alk/Mag from xxxxxxxxxx and Im just gonna buy the tests from there too. My LFS wants $40 for em when I can get them for $25 online.
Both BN are doing great. Seeing longer polyp extension each day. The Digit first showed feeder tentacles at night only on the top of it. Now they are extending on the sides of it too. This is good, I think :)
No RO/DI unit yet but corals seem to be doing ok with my conditioned tap water. *knock on wood*
 
kraylen

kraylen

Member
Good choice.
BTW, Where in AZ are you at? I'll be there until the 21st LFS hopping and what not... I know the good spots :)
 
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