Squid ~Pump Question

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by CoryHerb
going to go with the dolphin amp master 4700 unless you say otherwise.
>>> Fine<<<
Now I have a questions on the sump. Is the described set up as listed above okay?
>>>The three sections "overflow drain chamber/ pump in center/Fuge on side"...Yep<<<
I don't get how to set up the overflow from the fuge to the middle return section of the sump. Doesn't seem like just a baffel would be the best way if I ever want to dump a picked on fish into it for a while.
>>>Fuge flow is "generally" much slower, and spread over a wide baffle top, so "fish" generally won't get "sucked" over the edge..but you could put an "egg crate" strainer on the edge to keep them in if you choose..<<<
actually now that I think about it..a baffel wouldn't work at all. And anything that just flows over a wall would create bubbles. HELP!
>>>Not exactly...See above...also see thread on "baffle layout"<<
small overflow box right into the center/return chamber?
say it is so!!
>>not neccessary..see above<<<
thanks for all the help squidd.
 

coryherb

Member
Okay..that is easy enough. Thanks
If i have the manufacturer put in two overflows on each back corner of the tank, does that mean I could ahve 2400 flow to the sump, I assume not? What is the magic 1200 number? So would each corner overflow supply 600 ?
 

coryherb

Member
These are the specs that the manufacturer lists. So this manufacturer includes the pipes back up to the tank? /sigh
1 1/2" Drain
1" Return
3/4" Nozzle
Bulkhead fittings and Return Pipe included
2 Shapes Available
 

coryherb

Member
how far off the water should 250 watt MH be? Standard canopy has internal height of 5 inches it says. Is that enough?
 

squidd

Active Member
1 1/2" drains will do 1300 gph each (or 2600 for 2)
My MH fixture is 5" thick...
You would probably want 12" to 14" inside to keep the light off the water...
 

coryherb

Member
they offer a 12 inch canopy..not sure how much more it is though. :rolleyes:
hmm..so I should go with one corner return? or a middle? sounds like if i wanted two corner returns i would want a bigger sump to handle that much flow? Or maybe I should ask them if I can do two smaller corner returns?
thanks yet again for the help.
where do you want the check sent to? :)
 

squidd

Active Member
Those are som options...
Witha 1300 gph overflow you could go with (one) as designed corner or center (depending on your preference for rock layout)
Or you could go two...one in each corner...same layout as present...over sized drainpipes will not affect numbers as presented...
Or we could start over go with a bigger sump to handle more flow and smaller on the C/L system..
1100 gph turnover in the sump/fuge area is plenty to handle filtration needs....and more through C/L means more "in tank" flow for corals...
Checks can go to the Tsunami relief fund...or a local Homeless shelter in your area...:)
 

coryherb

Member
"Or you could go two...one in each corner...same layout as present...over sized drainpipes will not affect numbers as presented...
what does that mean? Oversized drain pipes won't affect numbers..
check will be made in the name of squidd.
 

coryherb

Member
I think your saying that the overflows can only handle what is being pumped up to them anyway. Right? I have pretty much decided to go with one overflow in the back left corner. For where I am putting it in the room that would give the best viewing on the right side.
 

coryherb

Member
SQUIDD!!!:jumping:
I have another issue..surprise surprise. The place I am getting the tank from includes a return pipe. I guess it goes back to the overflow box. I don't know exactly how that works but assume it does. But having the return next to the overflow would seem to be counterproductive.
Help again!! :help:
 

squidd

Active Member
It actually is (counter productive) to a point...
They generally are set to push out from a side of the overflow and the "circle" around the tank ....
But , an overflow (intake) and return (output) that close tends to short cut the flow pattern...
You don't "have to" use that return...some people will use it as a second drain in their overflow or if one hole is big enough (you have 1 1/2" ) you can just "plug" the bulkhead after it's installed...
You "could" use it for the intake of your C/L but I do NOT reccomend that...
1. Too much flow over the lip of the overflow (bubbles/noise)
2. Hole is too small for adaquate "feed" or C/L pump....
I suggest a center back intake for the C/L and now with one "corner" overflow, put the sump return OTT in the opposite corner...
 

coryherb

Member
Shoot..I had them put a 2inch hole in the center on the support brace for the return already anticipating that you would tell me I could plug the return they put in and figured a hole on top could come in handy anyway. Well I guess I could change that though. Pretty sure anyway. I had them put in 6 holes total. One 2 inch center on the brace as mentioned. Four 1 3/4" across the top for the Mag 4 way returns in C/L. One 2 3/8" 10 inches down in the center for the C/L feed. Maybe I could angle the return from the sump toward the back right corner from the middle?
What is your opinion..should I call them tomorrow and change that 2 inch hole on top and move it over ?
thanks again
cory
 

squidd

Active Member
The sump return to center was in anticipation of two overflows (in each corner...)
Opposite corner would be best, but If you can't change it "turning" the output to the right would have a similar effect...and be fine :yes:
 

coryherb

Member
looking at the mag 18pump, it has 3/4" inch outs and ins. You said I should run a 1" line. Do I just use an adapter? And since I have a 1300 gph overflow should I consider going to 1 1/4"? I don't see a bulkhead for 1 1/4 inch piping.
 

squidd

Active Member
The Mag 18 has 3/4" MPT outlets, which means...1" ID line will fit right over the top...
Using a short piece of "flexible" tubing right at the pump connection will minimize the vibration transfered to the rest of the Hard line...
And if you use Spa Flex line, you can PVC glue your hard line (unions, valves,etc..) right to it...
should I consider going to 1 1/4"? I don't see a bulkhead for 1 1/4 inch piping.
Exactly....
 

coryherb

Member
i was thinking of using that flex tubing all the way up to the double 90 hooking back into the tank for the return. Would that be okay or should I put it to hard pvc before that? Also..I have absolutely no idea what I need for connectors? Can I get it all at HDepot? I looked through HD today just to see if they had black pvc..they don't have a 1" line at this one in black. But I really have no clue. I have never done any kind of plumbing before. Can you give me an idea of what kind of connectors I need? I read a few of your other threads on sumps..and you use unions and slip and other descriptions of stuff I just don't know anything about. If you could tell me the exact connections you would use for a typical connection from sump to tank..I am pretty sure I could figure out the rest and modify as needed. Just don't know terminology which leads to no clue of what to buy. I do know what a ball valve is..that a start?
also...I read how to set up the baffels etc for the sump on another thread you posted on..I have a good idea there what I need to do. I however am not sure how much space for each section. I believe i want to give my refugium as much space as i can. How much bigger than the footprint should I give the skimmer? How much space is needed in excess of the size of the return pump? Then the rest will be refug.
thank you
 

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by CoryHerb
i was thinking of using that flex tubing all the way up to the double 90 hooking back into the tank for the return. Would that be okay or should I put it to hard pvc before that?
>>>Running the Spa Flex all the way up is acceptable, and can help by eliminating elbows and angles as you twist and turn up to the tank...It may not "look" as nice as a professional hard pipe "plumbing" job, but then most DIY plumbing doesn't look "professional"...:D <<<
Also..I have absolutely no idea what I need for connectors? Can I get it all at HDepot?
>>>Most any hdwr store should carry all the common "fittings" you might need<<<
I looked through HD today just to see if they had black pvc..they don't have a 1" line at this one in black.
Black will be much more difficult to find, gray a little easier, but will "probably" have to be special ordered..."Exterior" pipes can be painted if you don't want white...<<<
But I really have no clue. I have never done any kind of plumbing before. Can you give me an idea of what kind of connectors I need? I read a few of your other threads on sumps..and you use unions and slip and other descriptions of stuff I just don't know anything about. If you could tell me the exact connections you would use for a typical connection from sump to tank..I am pretty sure I could figure out the rest and modify as needed. Just don't know terminology which leads to no clue of what to buy. I do know what a ball valve is..that a start?
>>>It's a "start"...:rolleyes: ... :D...
We are about to start on Leonas sump/fuge "sizing" and plumbing to the tank in the "Plumbing 101" thread...If you follow along there I'll make sure (need to) "spell out" each piece anyway<<<
also...I read how to set up the baffels etc for the sump on another thread you posted on..I have a good idea there what I need to do. I however am not sure how much space for each section. I believe i want to give my refugium as much space as i can. How much bigger than the footprint should I give the skimmer? How much space is needed in excess of the size of the return pump? Then the rest will be refug.
>>>see above, I'll be talking in general "percentages" for tank size...If you need clarification from there, we can address that...<<<
thank you
 

squidd

Active Member
Cool....We'll get going on that "shortly" ...
If I could just get her to "commit" to a tank size....:D
 
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