Startin up a 24gal AqPod Reef

paintballer768

Active Member
Oh ok thank you. Ill grab a powerhead before I start adding corals to the tank to get the flow extra good, and use it for the new water. And I started thinking about this, and need to make sure...besides the powerhead, what else should I need to get my tank in prime position to have these corals thrive? ATM its a stock Aquapod. Nothing extra. Thanks a ton PerfectDark, I cant thank you enough.
Edit: I was checking the flow today in the tank and to be honest I dont think I need a PH in there. The flow is really strong and I have those two jets positioned well. Also I dont think I could fit one in there either. I may pick one up for water changes, and only use it in my main tank if Im at some huge water flow deficiency which wont happen.
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Just tested the water.
Nitrates - 20 ppm
Nitrites - 0.5 ppm
Alkalinity - 300 ppm
pH - 7.8
Ammonia - 0.5 ppm.
Im really hoping to watch those nitrites and ammonia to drop to 0 this coming week or so. I would be so happy. If so, then I go to the LFS and buy a powerhead, do a water change, buy a cleanup crew, and get a Green Ricordea Mushroom from none other than Saltwaterfish.com! And since I live about an hour from this place's warehouse, I have no problem ordering from here.
Pics will be up tomorrow and hopefully someone can help identify this white cob webish looking stuff on one of my LRs. It hasnt spread and it hasnt shrunk either. Im guessing its something thats decaying from the LR I bought since it had some loose dead pieces of plants on it, but Ill leave it up to you all to decide since you guess is a bit better than mine.
Also what should I do about this pH? It isnt near 8.1-8.4 so I need to get it up before I add anything and say cycling is officially complete.
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Good deal on getting the power head for your water change. IMO I would do 2 to 3 water changes at about 20% each over the next 2 weeks. Use RO water and measure your salinty to about 1.024 to 1.026. After that is done then re-test your water perameters and PH. I will bet that you will see a dramatic change in your chemistry for the better including your PH.
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
Good deal on getting the power head for your water change. IMO I would do 2 to 3 water changes at about 20% each over the next 2 weeks. Use RO water and measure your salinty to about 1.024 to 1.026. After that is done then re-test your water perameters and PH. I will bet that you will see a dramatic change in your chemistry for the better including your PH.
That would just thrill me to death haha. I need to get paid before I can get the powerhead. Hopefully get paid next week or so, depends when the customers decide to pay and thats always fun waiting. According to my dad whos been buying from the LFS for years, they used local intracoastal water, filtered for debris and supposedly they do use a RO machine on it and make sure the temperature is colder than room temperature and the salinity is about 1.028 so it can boost the consumers tank up a bit. Sounds like a good deal, I may just buy the water from them again. Ill go down there and buy the water and the powerhead when I head down there, and then do what you said with the 12-24 hours of circulation and make sure its decent water with tests.
Since Im getting paid and all, do you think the stock lighting in my tank would be enough to eventually sustain a brain coral? I know the stock is good enough for softies but Im not sure if it would be enough for a brain or an anemone eventually.
Pics will be up tomorrow
 

paintballer768

Active Member
I tested the ammonia today because I was just curious, and it seems to have dropped from the 0.5 ppm - 1 ppm to the 0 ppm - 0.5 ppm. Yay
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Pictures!!!
Full Tank Shot

White things that have formed on the LR I added a week or so ago. They just formed and havent gone away or gotten larger. No tentacles on it either.

Some red algae on the LR as well.
 

new2salt1

Member
No prob paint, Im glad that helped. I need things explained to me in simple terms too. Too often people make it sound too complicated for beginners, which makes us not want to deal with it.
PD has much more experience with mixing salt than I do, so I will tell you first off that his advice is solid. I would just add that if your money is short, a powerhead in your freshly mixed saltwater is NOT a priority IMO. Making sure you have a quality salt and a steady RO source are 2 top priorities. At .39 a gallon, the water is cheap. But a good salt (I use Tropic Marin) will get you about 50 gal of saltwater for $20-$23. So MAKE SURE you are getting quality salt BEFORE you spring for a powerhead.
And NEVER EVER EVER use tapwater. I bought my system from someone who has the tank in a commercial building. He was adding tapwater for his weekly topoffs. His Live Rock (now my live rock) absorbed so much phosphates that I have JUST got in under 1. And it took 45 days.
You REALLY dont ever want to use tapwater. RO is too cheap to skimp on it. Think about it? A 12oz bottle of water at Wawa costs $1.20. You can get FOUR GALLONS of R.O. for that!!
Keep the readings coming. You sounds close to being ready for a clean up crew.
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Hah that sounds good. Well this weekend Im going up to the LFS. I try to go on weekly trips because its the only established one in the area, been up for about 30 years or so, and the place isnt half bad. Ill make sure to ask if its RO treated.
I would never add straight up tap water. Treated still isnt the best to use either. I wont use the dechlorinator to do treat new water anymore.
Also with the tight budget and all, I was already thinking what you were about the powerhead. If I check if the water is RO treated, and test it before I add it in, shouldnt it be in good shape already?
With priorities in mind, I was looking at PD's thread earlier. You use stock 32 watt PC lighting. Should I upgrade my bulbs? Eventually I hope to have such things like brains and anemones, which to my knowledge require good lights. Current-USA recommends using Sunpaq lights as theyre the only ones made specifically for the hood that comes with the tank. Any suggestions on wattage, or even if I need to upgrade at all?
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Well in fact a small power head IMO is more of a necessity when you are doing alot of water changes in the quantity that us nano tank owners do them in.
PH stabilization is extremly important when you are doing a 15 to 20% water change which is typically what most people do to the nano's. Along with airating the water for the 12 hour period making sure it is oxygenated. I have read a number of threads where people have hurt their tanks by mixing salt quickly and doing a change right away. I dont think this would be as big of and issue if you were changing 10% of a 75 gal tank once a month, but 15 to 20% once a week IMO it has effects.
A small power head for a 10 gal tank you can find for $12 to 15$ at most FS. This IMO would be a wise purchase. The BioCube runs 2-36W PC bulbs, originally 1 was 10k daylight and the other was Actinic. I since changed them out and now I run 2 36W 50/50's for a more evenly distributed light. This is sufficient for all soft corals some LPS and right now I have a RBTA that is doing well and has been for 6 months now. However long term I think my lighting needs to be upgraded a bit. Not sure but I think the aquapod lighting is 2- 32 watt bulbs which is comprable to the biocubes.
 

paintballer768

Active Member
The powerhead are very cheap, and I may hold off on the lighting upgrade until when I go to get my first corals. So youre saying, in simple terms, that the new water should be well aerated so that its not like adding a giant cloud of death to the tank. So I think that its final that Ill buy a tiny 10-15 gallon powerhead for my bucket and let the water run through it for a bit before adding it.
As for the lights, the model and brand of the lights that come with the Aquapod is 1 32 watt Sunpaq Dual Daylight bulb and 1 32 watt Sunpaq Dual Actinic. The lunar lights are built into the hood so I dont need to list those and theyre so weak to matter IMO. Im not too fond of buying a new fixture for a couple hundred, it would be great if I could just upgrade the bulbs to more wattage.
I was thinking maybe MH lights, but then I read more into them and saw what special needs they have. Need to be about 6" higher than the surface of water, usually require their own fixture due to the amount of heat they produce, and sometimes youre tank will need a chiller to maintain proper temperature for the heat they produce as well. So no MH unless I feel like spending a huge amount of money. Is there any alternatives to buying a new fixture?
 

peef

Active Member
Don't try to interchange wattage of bulbs on a housing that is not made for it. It will short out the entire system and possibly shock you and your tank. If you are going to buy a new light I would just keep what corals you can with what you have and save money to buy a chiller and MH setup. Better to do it right the first time than waste time and money.
 

paintballer768

Active Member
I have no idea even if interchanging the bulbs on the hood were even possible. Theres a few mods for the nano hoods that upgrade the wattage that Ive seen thanks to PD. 108 watt and 144 watt upgrades that require you to disassemble the lighting system in the hood, and then reinstall their parts, very affordable as well.
For now and the current money situation, Im trying to research what kinds of corals I can keep with my lighting ATM. I leave the lunar lights on at night obviously, turn on the Actinic about 1 hr before turning on the daylight ones, and leave the actinic while the daylight one is on. I leave those two on for about 12-13 hours, then turn off the daylight and leave the actinic for about 1 hr afterwards, then turn it off and lunar lights for the rest of the night. Sound like a decent light cycle?
Like I said above, I have 32 watt Dual Daylight and 32 watt Dual Actinic. Should I be able to maintain healthy zoos, mushrooms, ricordea, maybe a colt coral, and a gorgonian? I would add more light-dependent corals after the lighting upgrade is in place. So all I need to know for now is if the lighting cycle is at a good spot, if my current lighting could deal with the corals listed, and if I could possibly have a brain coral do well under stock lighting circumstances?
Thank you everyone
 

new2salt1

Member
PD, I was just saying that if Paint is going to skimp on R.O. to buy a powerhead, that is a bad idea (and a dumb move, since he knows better now)
. Plus, I could give him one for free. (PM me if you need one Paint).
Personally, I have NEVER used a powerhead inside my R.O. buckets, and I have kept Oscars and Piranhas for 10 years, and an aquatic turtle for over a year. And if anyone knows anything about Map Turtles, water quality is of the utmost importance, and YOU WILL KILL THE TURTLE if you are doing something wrong. I haven't killed anything since those stinkin brackish pufferfish when I was 18, and Im 26 now. That's 8 years of doing SOMETHING right...
I think the circulation/aeration gained by mixing the salt is more than sufficient. I have *heard* that the water should not be added right after the salt is mixed, but in the 3 months I have been reading about this hobby (and I read alot), I have yet to read anything that presents PROOF that it is harmful. Although, my saltwater tends to sit for 24 hours anyway. Personally, I like anecdotal AND scientific evidence. Here is mine:
NOTHING that I test for (amm, trites, trates, calc, alk, phos, mg, ph, sg, temp) has been adversely affected by adding water within an hour after the salt was mixed. I know this because I test my water prior to adding it, and I test my tank before and after. And as far as oxygen levels, I dont know of anyone who has tested oxygen levels in rapidly stirred RO in a bucket and compared them to oxygen levels in an established reef nano. Although, I am interested in hearing if this WAS done, because I think the bucket of rapidly stirred RO water would be much more oxygenated than a BioCube with a stock pump.
As you can see Paint, some of this stuff is opinion and individual experience. But what PD and I agree on it you CAN NOT use tap water with or without water conditioner.
Let me know if you need a pump for your RO buckets. You show me a pic proving you bought RO water, and I will overnight you the pump, scouts honor.
 

new2salt1

Member
As for the lighting, I dont own any of the corals you mentioned except for zoanthids, and they do well under my stock BioCube lighting (see pic).
However, I think everyone would agree that almost all corals could benefit fom MH lights, but there are some that don't necessarily need it to survive.
The corals that I have that are thriving under stock BioCube lighting and flow are:
1. elegance
2. pulsating xenia
3. zoanthids
4. finger leather (doing well - polyps almost always fully extended - but could probably use a little more flow, which he doesn't get right now because of his position in the tank).
5. some species of acan growing on base of finger. very cool green coral.
 

new2salt1

Member
Originally Posted by TriGa22
Wow that coral is huge!
Coral big or tank small? Haha, she is (sadly) set up for a new home.
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by New2Salt1
PD, I was just saying that if Paint is going to skimp on R.O. to buy a powerhead, that is a bad idea (and a dumb move, since he knows better now)
. Plus, I could give him one for free. (PM me if you need one Paint).
Personally, I have NEVER used a powerhead inside my R.O. buckets, and I have kept Oscars and Piranhas for 10 years, and an aquatic turtle for over a year. And if anyone knows anything about Map Turtles, water quality is of the utmost importance, and YOU WILL KILL THE TURTLE if you are doing something wrong. I haven't killed anything since those stinkin brackish pufferfish when I was 18, and Im 26 now. That's 8 years of doing SOMETHING right...
I think the circulation/aeration gained by mixing the salt is more than sufficient. I have *heard* that the water should not be added right after the salt is mixed, but in the 3 months I have been reading about this hobby (and I read alot), I have yet to read anything that presents PROOF that it is harmful. Although, my saltwater tends to sit for 24 hours anyway. Personally, I like anecdotal AND scientific evidence. Here is mine:
NOTHING that I test for (amm, trites, trates, calc, alk, phos, mg, ph, sg, temp) has been adversely affected by adding water within an hour after the salt was mixed. I know this because I test my water prior to adding it, and I test my tank before and after. And as far as oxygen levels, I dont know of anyone who has tested oxygen levels in rapidly stirred RO in a bucket and compared them to oxygen levels in an established reef nano. Although, I am interested in hearing if this WAS done, because I think the bucket of rapidly stirred RO water would be much more oxygenated than a BioCube with a stock pump.
As you can see Paint, some of this stuff is opinion and individual experience. But what PD and I agree on it you CAN NOT use tap water with or without water conditioner.
Let me know if you need a pump for your RO buckets. You show me a pic proving you bought RO water, and I will overnight you the pump, scouts honor.

The information I give/gave is soley based on science. Unless prefrenced by MO or ME here is the proof asked for. "When it comes to salt water itself, one should always remember the caustic nature of saltwater, especially the unnatural artificial salt mixes we use. While these mixes are really the best solution to a long-term conundrum of the hobby, when they are freshly mixed up, they are extremely caustic and can even harm your marine charges by their caustic nature. There is a simple way around this, and its by mixing your saltwater prior to use, and allowing it to stabilize and find equilibrium before adding it to your tanks. This is truly the underlying importance of creating a water holding system to fit your needs.Letting your water circulate, aerate, and 'age' for a few days to weeks before use, it will allow the water to reach an equilibrium between dissolved oxygen content and carbon dioxide content, as well as giving newly mixed saltwater a chance to age and complete its internal reactions. Freshly mixed saltwater has far more caustic and corrosive properties than that of aged water, both to equipment and livestock. After mixing saltwater, it is also a good idea to test your new source water for biomineral content, such as pH, calcium and alkalinity, and adjust accordingly. Buffering your water beforehand will help allow for less maintenance in the display tank, and more stability for your aquatic charges."
Salt water is completly different than fresh water and you really cant compare the 2 when it comes to this sort of thing.
FYI this information was provided by Bob Fenner a known expert in marine biology, and author of the popular book "The Conscientious Mmarine Aquarist" among others.
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Ah ok well I agree with you both on letting the newly mixed saltwater stabilize before adding it. When I first mixed a batch for the water I first filled the tank with, the results were very scattered and hectic, as far as going from one end of the chart to the other.
So this is what I have so far...1) Use RO water 2) Use a PH to circulate the water and get the oxygen levels up, and to help the salt get distributed and dissolved well so we can tweak the levels accordingly 3) NO TAP WATER!!
Haha ok got it. No free PHs will be necessary, but nice of you to say New2Salt1, Ill be picking one up this weekend. Im going to the LFS to get some stuff, PH and new water mainly. Also to gawk and awe at the corals they have and dream. Ill be getting a powerhead, water, and to see what other little goodies they might have. Also to New2Salt, yours is one of the cleanest tanks Ive seen, nicely done.
And to get a little off-topic, tonite I saw a tank at a friends house where he had it set up with some LR and some fish despite the fact I think the tank was still in the final stages of cycling. Yellow Tang and an Arrow Crab significantly, but his dad gets it wholesale so I guess he can kill what he wants, but some of the LR had some mushrooms and zoos on it. The mushrooms were like the size of a nickel and looked really unhealthy, same with the zoos. It pains me to see tanks with such neglect and to take such things for granted. Ill be more than happy to give them a good home
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Well Im slightly shaken up because I was looking at some of the algae on the back divider between the tank and filter area, and noticed some very tiny white things moving around.
I would take a pic but theyre so small they wouldnt capture it. Theres quite a few, but if I could measure, theyd be about 1/2 a millimeter long, and they go around the wall, and sometimes swim short distances to my LR. No idea what these little hitchhikers could be, any help?
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Most likely pods of some type Copepods amphipods etc... common inhabitant no worries. If your really worried try to get a pic..
 
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