Quote:
Originally Posted by
pfcbizz http:///t/388846/starting-my-cycling-today-on-my-85-gallon-tank/40#post_3433487
Ok, I was reading online different methods of cycling a salwater tank, and one of the methods is with LS & LR, and another way to cycle is with raw shrimp, so if I have raw shrimp in my tank already why would I go buy LR & LS if it's not needed ? and it will take the same amount of time for both methods to work, I don't understand why people say you can't really cycle the tank without LS & LR because if its said you can somebody is LIEING I'm confused.
Cycling a Saltwater Marine Aquarium
Unlike most freshwater fish, saltwater fish are very sensitive to water quality and the presence of chemicals such as ammonia and nitrites. As a result, it is a bad idea to set up a saltwater aquarium in one day and toss fish into it. Some fish might survive, but there is a good chance that they won't.
When a new saltwater tank is set up, it must provide for the filtration of the ammonia from fish waste. This is accomplished by seeding the water with bacteria that will convert the ammonia to nitrites and, from there, to nitrates. These bacteria won't be present in fresh saltwater that is made from a mix, however.
Where can you get this bacteria? Some people put a hardy fish such as a damselfish into the aquarium, triggering a cycle, but not without subjecting the fish to poor water quality and suffering. A more humane way to cycle the aquarium is by using one of the fishless methods. The more expensive, but more effective, route involves purchasing "live" rock and/or sand and placing it in the aquarium. The needed bacteria will be provided by the rock and will cycle the aquarium to fish-ready status within 4-6 weeks in most cases. If you are too cheap for live rock or sand, you can also put a raw shrimp in the water for a few days, then let the aquarium sit for the 4-6 weeks.
How do you know your aquarium is cycling? The only way to know for sure is to get test kits for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Take measurements every day or two and record the values in a notebook. You should see a large spike in ammonia levels, which then goes to zero as the nitrites spike. The nitrite spike should then drop to zero as the nitrates spike. After the level of nitrates drops, your tank should be cycled and fish ready. Many aquarists choose to do a large water change at this point to get rid of any foul remnants from the cycling process.
What is going on during these spikes? The ammonia spike encourages the growth of a certain type of bacteria that breaks it down into nitrites. The spike in nitrites encourages the growth of another type of bacteria that breaks it down into nitrates. These different types of bacteria are a key to a healthy aquarium that will effectively eliminate chemicals that would otherwise harm your fish.
Some companies have begun offering packets of bacteria that can be dumped into the aquarium to cycle it in a matter of days, as opposed to the typical weeks. Some people have reported success using this method, although it is not the most popular and has also received negative reviews. It is certainly not as natural as cycling with live rock and sand, but some people may find it more to their liking.
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