offshore80
Member
Mine is a Korallin. For large systems.
Sulfur Denitrification
- Thread starter nolan_nike
- Start date
nolan_nike
Member
Originally Posted by Offshore80
Mine is a Korallin. For large systems.
That explains why your nitrates are still smoking at 100+. Midwest Aquatics seeds their sulfur with freeze dried bacteria. That is why they start to reduce quicker. With the Korallin unit it could take 6 weeks for the bacteria to get going. You need to keep your drip rate very low, 1 drip per second most likely, until the effluent reads zero.
Otherwise the systems look very similar from your pictures.
Good Luck.
Mine is a Korallin. For large systems.
That explains why your nitrates are still smoking at 100+. Midwest Aquatics seeds their sulfur with freeze dried bacteria. That is why they start to reduce quicker. With the Korallin unit it could take 6 weeks for the bacteria to get going. You need to keep your drip rate very low, 1 drip per second most likely, until the effluent reads zero.
Otherwise the systems look very similar from your pictures.
Good Luck.
reefguy888
New Member
Originally Posted by Offshore80
Mine is a Korallin. For large systems.
It also looks like you have large air gap at the top. Midwest says that this means there is a lot of air getting into the filter. It could be causing the lag, as the filter needs low oxygen.
http://www.midwestaquatic.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=54
But most likely because you did not want the pre-seeded filter, you just have to just keep waiting. I don't have the Korralin, but it looks like the Midwest without the bells and whistles.
Mine is a Korallin. For large systems.
It also looks like you have large air gap at the top. Midwest says that this means there is a lot of air getting into the filter. It could be causing the lag, as the filter needs low oxygen.
http://www.midwestaquatic.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=54
But most likely because you did not want the pre-seeded filter, you just have to just keep waiting. I don't have the Korralin, but it looks like the Midwest without the bells and whistles.
offshore80
Member
Thanks, I will look into bleeding that off and fixing the problem.
offshore80
Member
OK, what's the best way to bleed that off? I tried a few things to no avail.
nolan_nike
Member
Originally Posted by Offshore80
OK, what's the best way to bleed that off? I tried a few things to no avail.
The midwest unit has a bleed valve that you open. In one of your pictures it looks like you've got a hose coming out of the top that goes to a syringe looking thing. That may be a bleed valve. If you can open it somehow you should hear air escape and water should start rising in your canister. When it reaches the top just close it off.
If that is something else - It would probably be easiest to loosen the lid slightly until the seal is broke and get ready to tighten quickly when the water gets close to the top.
OK, what's the best way to bleed that off? I tried a few things to no avail.
The midwest unit has a bleed valve that you open. In one of your pictures it looks like you've got a hose coming out of the top that goes to a syringe looking thing. That may be a bleed valve. If you can open it somehow you should hear air escape and water should start rising in your canister. When it reaches the top just close it off.
If that is something else - It would probably be easiest to loosen the lid slightly until the seal is broke and get ready to tighten quickly when the water gets close to the top.
