Sump plumbing

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by ludakris_123
http:///forum/post/2955837
i was wounder what size pump i would need for my return..i have a 55 gallon tank with a 30 gallon custom made sump..please help..thanks
is your question how powerful of a pump do you need to push water back to your display tank? aquarium125 was talking about total turnover and all your pumps, powerheads and filters should add up to at least 700gph as i understand it.
for your return the size of the pump will depend on the difference in height between your tank and sump as well as the diameter of the plumbing you use. the pump im using to return to my tank is 270gph and it is pushing the water up about a metre and a hlf through 3/4" pvc. i was told that you get more efficiency hard plumbing (pvc) vs soft plumbing (clear plastic tubing).

 

[florida joe]

sorry but i am back in your thread. can you post some pics of the new divider set up before you add the water again

 

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2956268
sorry but i am back in your thread. can you post some pics of the new divider set up before you add the water again
glad to have you back. i had to silicon 2 pieces of glass together to make the divider and that is curing now. i should have it settled into the tank tonight and ill post pics in a few hours.

 

[aquarium125g]

hi again, you also have to get a new pump and new 1 inch tubing (pvc) its better, it will not restrict flow, your pump wil perform better.

 

[nihoa]

k, new pics with the second divider added and i modded the influent pipe so there are many little holes rather than a single outlet. the new divider runs from about and inch and a hlaf off the bottom and clears the next divider by about 3 inches. i also shortened the parts in the tank so my syphon will break sooner.
sorry the pics are dark but we dont have much light in the living room.

 

[aquarium125g]

the divider looks good. now you need and overflow box. that pipe that runs from the tank to the refugium you need to take take that cap off cus you are restricting flow. you also have to put some type of tray to put that filtering cloth. remember you need a bigger pump.

 

[florida joe]

I am a very big believer in making things easy to take apart. Please consider putting couplings in places where you can easy remove sections if need be

The vertical influent looks real good. Consider blue/white filter material wrapped around it (cut to size and held in place with zip ties) in my own custom set up I did not glue the cap on the influent so I can slip the custom made filter off the end when it needed cleaning

 

[spanko]

Joe take a look at the added divider. Looks like Nihoa siliconed two pcs. of glass together in the middle. That's not gonna hod up to the pressure is it?

 

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by AQUARIUM125G
http:///forum/post/2957907
the divider looks good. now you need and overflow box. that pipe that runs from the tank to the refugium you need to take take that cap off cus you are restricting flow. you also have to put some type of tray to put that filtering cloth. remember you need a bigger pump.
i dont know what you mean about the tray. i want to make a small catchment at the bottom of that pipe that has filtering cloth in it? i thought i would be wrapping the whole pipe? if i pull that cap off the bottom there will be nothing to force flow through the small drilled holes? rather than remove the cap should i just drill way more holes?
i may wait a bit on the overflow box. what i have now will work without overflowing anything and i eventually want to build up to an overflow but not right yet i dont think. overflow boxes are $100 + and i dont have the money for that right now.
and what about the pump? the pump i have returns the water at the same rate it is syphoned out.

 

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2957930
Joe take a look at the added divider. Looks like Nihoa siliconed two pcs. of glass together in the middle. That's not gonna hod up to the pressure is it?
you are correct, thats what i did. but the majority of pressure should be on the last divider as it goes all the way to the bottom no?
man you saved my tank up above. i had the brass fittings all in and i was about to crank the water on but refreshed this thread at the last second. saw your 'brass is made of copper' post and near died!

 

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2957915
I am a very big believer in making things easy to take apart. Please consider putting couplings in places where you can easy remove sections if need be

The vertical influent looks real good. Consider blue/white filter material wrapped around it (cut to size and held in place with zip ties) in my own custom set up I did not glue the cap on the influent so I can slip the custom made filter off the end when it needed cleaning
alright so wrap the whole pipe covering the little drilled holes and all? the only parts that do not come apart easy are the pieces fed into the ball valves. everything else can pull apart.

 

[florida joe]

Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2957930
Joe take a look at the added divider. Looks like Nihoa siliconed two pcs. of glass together in the middle. That's not gonna hod up to the pressure is it?
Henry I feel any pressure is going to be from left to right (influent to return pump) if need be he puts a small piece of egg crate on end in between the two, that butts from one divider to another

 

[aquarium125g]

ok man shoot yourself am just trying to avoid you a headache besides you will never be able to control the amount of water syphoned using does valves, you will always have to be adjusting every couple of days if not every day. you can get a overflow box for alot less that $100 for your 55 gallon tank. mine cost me $80 and my tank 125 gallons, belive me you will be spending more at the end when you realize that what you have does not work. if you like i can make a short video of how mine works and you will see that is not that complicated or spend alot of money

 

[florida joe]

Originally Posted by Nihoa
http:///forum/post/2957962
alright so wrap the whole pipe covering the little drilled holes and all? the only parts that do not come apart easy are the pieces fed into the ball valves. everything else can pull apart.
I leave a few sctions of holes uncoverd . I would much rather see you glue all your mating pieces (for safety) and add couplings

 

[florida joe]

Originally Posted by AQUARIUM125G
http:///forum/post/2957985
ok man shoot yourself am just trying to avoid you a headache besides you will never be able to control the amount of water syphoned using does valves, you will always have to be adjusting every couple of days if not every day. you can get a overflow box for alot less that $100 for your 55 gallon tank. mine cost me $80 and my tank 125 gallons, belive me you will be spending more at the end when you realize that what you have does not work. if you like i can make a short video of how mine works and you will see that is not that complicated or spend alot of money
I have another idea, I have to go but I will think about it. What if he installs his powerhead in such a way that he can turn it off and continuer to have gravity feed his sump/ref as I do mine from my overflow boxes? Then he will have no problem controlling the flow

 

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by AQUARIUM125G
http:///forum/post/2957985
ok man shoot yourself am just trying to avoid you a headache besides you will never be able to control the amount of water syphoned using does valves, you will always have to be adjusting every couple of days if not every day. you can get a overflow box for alot less that $100 for your 55 gallon tank. mine cost me $80 and my tank 125 gallons, belive me you will be spending more at the end when you realize that what you have does not work. if you like i can make a short video of how mine works and you will see that is not that complicated or spend alot of money
yeah, if you dont mind spending the time id like to see a vid. im in a bit of a sucky town for fish shops and everything is pretty expensive. i can find it online much cheaper but then im dealing with shipping and tariff if it comes out of the states. ill look into it.

 

[nihoa]

Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2957987
I leave a few sctions of holes uncoverd . I would much rather see you glue all your mating pieces (for safety) and add couplings
couplings join 2 pieces of straight pipe? where was it you were suggesting adding these?

 

[florida joe]

Originally Posted by Nihoa
http:///forum/post/2958004
yeah, if you dont mind spending the time id like to see a vid. im in a bit of a sucky town for fish shops and everything is pretty expensive. i can find it online much cheaper but then im dealing with shipping and tariff if it comes out of the states. ill look into it.
please read my last post before you buy anything let me run your influent system around in my small brain for a bit. Start at your sump refug and work backward. Ask your self if I had to remove the sump/refug what would be the easiest way to do it. That will give you an idea where you need couplings in your plumbing do the same all the way back to your DT

 

[aquarium125g]

ok i will make the video now and post it on youtube i will let you know when i have it

 

[spanko]

Originally Posted by Nihoa
http:///forum/post/2957954
you are correct, thats what i did. but the majority of pressure should be on the last divider as it goes all the way to the bottom no?
Yeah maybe, and Joe seems to be okay with it.
As the president of a company I worry, because, well, that's what I do!