Sump plumbing

florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2958021
Yeah maybe, and Joe seems to be okay with it.
As the president of a company I worry, because, well, that's what I do!
Henry i am only ok with is as long as he adds the piece butting from one divider to the other and Nihoa please read post #58
 
N

nihoa

Guest
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2958021
Yeah maybe, and Joe seems to be okay with it.
As the president of a company I worry, because, well, that's what I do!
hahah, as a grad student i say eff it and call learning from my mistakes science!
 
N

nihoa

Guest
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2958010
please read my last post before you buy anything let me run your influent system around in my small brain for a bit. Start at your sump refug and work backward. Ask your self if I had to remove the sump/refug what would be the easiest way to do it. That will give you an idea where you need couplings in your plumbing do the same all the way back to your DT
ok, so the point of the coupling is to provide a more secure connection to take apart than pulling the plumbing apart at the pvc elbows? we may have a diff definition of coupling as well. what i understand a coupling to be is a pvc joint with 2 smooth female ends which would join 2 pieces of pvc much the same as an elbow would minus the bend. are we talking about the same thing?
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Nihoa
http:///forum/post/2958195
ok, so the point of the coupling is to provide a more secure connection to take apart than pulling the plumbing apart at the pvc elbows? we may have a diff definition of coupling as well. what i understand a coupling to be is a pvc joint with 2 smooth female ends which would join 2 pieces of pvc much the same as an elbow would minus the bend. are we talking about the same thing?
I would glue any connections I have so I am sure they will not come apart unexpectedly and cause a major problem especially if you are not home. A coupling has 4 individual parts you have a female part, locking ring O-ring and mating female part. Each female part goes on each end of the pieces you are mating, one female part is threaded the other part has the locking ring. when joined both mating parts connect and you have a water tight seal
 
N

nihoa

Guest
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2957975
Henry I feel any pressure is going to be from left to right (influent to return pump) if need be he puts a small piece of egg crate on end in between the two, that butts from one divider to another
i added a piece of pvc between the two dividers that i cut a tiny bit wider than the distance between them. there is enough pressure on the dividers that the pvc isnt going anywhere but it shouldnt be pushing enough to cause them trouble.
 
N

nihoa

Guest
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2957915
Consider blue/white filter material wrapped around it (cut to size and held in place with zip ties) in my own custom set up I did not glue the cap on the influent so I can slip the custom made filter off the end when it needed cleaning
is blue/white filter material a common product i should be able to find easily or can i use any type of sponge or mesh. did you read 125gs post about my cap restricting flow? drill more holes?
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Nihoa
http:///forum/post/2958529
is blue/white filter material a common product i should be able to find easily or can i use any type of sponge or mesh. did you read 125gs post about my cap restricting flow? drill more holes?
you can get the blue/white on line. the cap will not restrict flow any added pressure will force the water out of the holes at a faster rate then you are supplying
 
aquarium125g

aquarium125g

Member
the angelfish is a Vermiculated Angelfish. and filtering cloth is very easy to find any aquarium place should have it. its very cheat its about $5 for like 4 feet.
 
aquarium125g

aquarium125g

Member
if i where you i will remove that cap, and let the water flow as freely as possible, remember the more water you can move in one hour the better.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by AQUARIUM125G
http:///forum/post/2958549
if i where you i will remove that cap, and let the water flow as freely as possible, remember the more water you can move in one hour the better.
With the cap off he will just have flow out the bottom disrupting any sand bed. The added pressure with the cap will force water out the holes at a higher pressure but they will be going longitudinally. All he is concerned with is turn over rate and he can adjust this with the valves but I am open to debate
 
aquarium125g

aquarium125g

Member
ok the cap can stay. i think he is going to have a very hard time adjusting the flow rate with the pvc valves. thats not new for me i try that already before and i ended up buy the overflow box. he can make work but every day he will have to readjust. if he uses the overflow box he would not have to worry about that. now he does not want to spend money on the overflow box but he has bought two brass valves and two pvc valves, the pvc valves cost him about 5 dollar each, so thats 10 plus the two brass valves, they would probably more that five dollars each, so thats like 25 dollars total, now with 50 dollars more he cam get the overflow box.
 
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