The 120 Gal build......

[returnedreefer]

Alright folks... This the beginning of my 120 gal Reef build. This should be a pretty decent thread as I am starting from scratch and will be documenting as I go as well as plenty of pics. I will be asking for lots of opinions as that is what makes this experience great....
The beginning....
I now have in my posession a 120 gal (4x2x2) drilled display (pic to come) as well as a 55 gal long for a sump. I found a good deal on a light set (Deep Blue Sea Quad Solarxtreme 48') and will be doing a DIY stand in the coming weeks. I am currently searching for good deals to complete some of my needed equipment... Here is what I am thinking....
2 - 250W Heaters (Jaegers or Hydors)
1 - Danner Mag 1800 (Actually a better deal then the 12 and I am planning on splitting the return in 2 and then again so actual flow heads in the tank will equal 4)
2 - Koralia 550 or 725's
Sump will include a protein skimmer (eventually), a refugium, and return (actually toyed around with adding a HOB Filter in the Sump just for running Carbon and such since I got one hanging around but didnt know if I would gain much with the flow being what it is)
1 - switchboard for ease of use
100#s of Live Rock to start
100#s of Sand
Any and all comments are appreciated and I hope to get a few starter pics up in a day or 2...
Thanks again and Happy following!

 

[meowzer]

YAYYY...Looking forward to a new build

 

[returnedreefer]

Here is the display tank I am going to use... Still got it cleaned up and looking for ideas on the best means of overflow... As you can see, it is drilled for corners but lacking the acryllic boxes (which seem to be scarce for some reason). I am thinking of a couple different options as to what is best.
1 - DIY some acryillic boxes and use the corners as intended.....
2 - Snake suggested going simple with black (painted) pipe in a Durst configuration and leaving them open..
3 - Also thought about a DIY Skim pipe to run across the top from 1 side to the other to allow maximum surface skim...
Thoughts?

 

[returnedreefer]

OK.. Now that I am thinking about sump design and what I want to achieve, I am thinking a Mag 9 is probably more suited for my system (keeping the flow through the sump lower) and making it for it with pumps in the display... So the configuration may be Mag 9.5 in sump @ 4' up feed ( ~800 gph), 3 koralia 750's for a total flow rate of ~3000 gph... That would put me at the 20x flow and achieve the lower flow in the sump that I think may be better...
More thoughts?

 

[returnedreefer]

Ofcourse the other option is (looking at all the accesible drill points on the tank) getting creative with a CLS, maybe even a split return up the bottom center into the middle of the live rock... Looking for ideas!

 

[sweatervest13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReturnedReefer http:///t/392703/the-120-gal-build#post_3488925
OK.. Now that I am thinking about sump design and what I want to achieve, I am thinking a Mag 9 is probably more suited for my system (keeping the flow through the sump lower) and making it for it with pumps in the display... So the configuration may be Mag 9.5 in sump @ 4' up feed ( ~800 gph), 3 koralia 750's for a total flow rate of ~3000 gph... That would put me at the 20x flow and achieve the lower flow in the sump that I think may be better...
More thoughts?
Looks good but why not go with some bigger koralia's like 2 Evo 1050's or even the 1400's. It should not cost that much more and it gives you a lot more flow. Just a thought (I like a lot of flow, LOL). I have a 125g (6 foot) tank and I used to have 4 Evo 1400's and run a Mag 18. I would not say that I had too much flow at all.
IF you do go for a ton of flow go for a larger grain of sand. Sugar fine will blow around like crazy.
I am following... It looks like it will be a fun thread!! Keep the pics coming.

 

[returnedreefer]

I will definitely consider the upgrade on Koralia's as I agree flow is very important. I think a great amount of flow in the DT is of great importance and my hope is if I go will quite a bit in the DT, I can slow down the flow in the Sump to ensure the water spends enough time in their to be skimmed properly and interact with the Refugium I plan on having... Seems like a good concept I guess..
Thanks for the info!

 

[meowzer]

I use to swear by Koralias...NOT ANYMORE though....IF you can afford it look into MP40's
It seems like 50% of all the Koralias I have purchased want to run backwards....that means everytime I have a little power blip...I have to beat the CR$$$$ out of them to get them to run right....and I have changed inside impellers too

 

[snakeblitz33]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReturnedReefer http:///t/392703/the-120-gal-build#post_3488929
Ofcourse the other option is (looking at all the accesible drill points on the tank) getting creative with a CLS, maybe even a split return up the bottom center into the middle of the live rock... Looking for ideas!
You don't want to use a split return into the middle. When the pump stops, it will backflow into your sump and you don't have that much room in your sump - and on the off chance your not home - you don't want to subject your corals to being out of water for longer than a few hours.
I suggest looking more into a closed loop system and you might could save yourself a little money from having to buy some vortech MP's by using an oceans motions 2 way or 4 way unit on your closed loop and putting a sea swirl on your return.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Yeah, I have been noticing that the quality of the koralias are lacking - especially when compared to vortechs or tunze powerheads. If you have the money, always buy quality in this hobby.

 

[returnedreefer]

The magic word is always "money" in this hobby... I am curious to how you would suggest going about a CLS on this particular tank Snake... Any chance you could throw out a synopsis based on the picture?

 

[snakeblitz33]

What I would do is not necessarily what you might want to do. lol
I would take a piece of glass and silicone it into a triangle into one corner of the tank. Then, I would use a standpipe with some slits cut out in it for the drain. That way you could drain a lot of water down it and have a high turnover rate through your sump without ever having to worry about buying an actual overflow. Given time, the glass will be covered with coralline and you won't even see the standpipe in the first place. OR, you could use black silicone and smear it all over the back of the glass to make it appear black. Either way...
Then, I would take and use the other side on the bottom pane as a closed loop drain. I'd put a strainer in it and let it go down to a Reeflo Barracuda/Dart pump and pump it up to the tank through an oceans motions two way unit - and use the two holes on the back of the tank as the returns for the closed loop. I would use split Rainbow (brand) loclines to adjust the flow. The oceans motions will give you a lot of random flow which is what corals and especially SPS corals like. It looks like there might be a bulkhead hole drilled into the side of the tank as well. I'd seal/cap that sucker off and forget about it unless you are looking to set up an easy water change system.

 

[returnedreefer]

I had threw around that very idea as far as the CLS on one side is concerned. I didn't know how breaking it up (one side sump, one side cls) would affect skim but it doesn't sound like it would.... good news... I am assuming the return from the sump would just be HOB back into the tank, correct? And as far as size of pumps, and with this type of cls, do u still see poeerheads in my future?