Treated RO DI

macchicks

New Member
Ok I have seen people suggest toping of with treated rodi water for evaporation.
I know not to use salt water but what do you have to treat the RODI with?
RODI takes out chlorine so just RODI top off should be fine right?
 
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tizzo

Guest
Correct. Top off with RO/Di and that's it.
Some people think you need to buffer top off water, but you do not! Your tanks buffers are not lost in evap, only pure water, so you only replace pure water.
 

jints

Member
Correct me if im wrong but your tap water may contain chloramine and depending on the amount....you may check with your vendor and purchase a upgraded chloramine filter. Call your local water company and ask if the water contains chloramine. Better to be safe than sorry.
 
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tizzo

Guest
Well, thanks a lot there Jints. Ignorance "WAS" bliss. Now I gotta call my water supplier and see if that's added to my water. This would suck if it were.
I did a search for...
Chloramine and the reef aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley and gathered a great deal of info on the matter...
 

rdm

Member
Originally Posted by Jints
http:///forum/post/2598584
Correct me if im wrong but your tap water may contain chloramine and depending on the amount....you may check with your vendor and purchase a upgraded chloramine filter. Call your local water company and ask if the water contains chloramine. Better to be safe than sorry.
Nothing that your water company add will be left after a pass though an RO/DI. Most RO/DI units produce lab grade water. The water is so pure it is not even recommended to drink, because it lacks trace elements and nutrients.
 

jints

Member
Originally Posted by rdm
http:///forum/post/2598608
Nothing that your water company add will be left after a pass though an RO/DI. Most RO/DI units produce lab grade water. The water is so pure it is not even recommended to drink, because it lacks trace elements and nutrients.
That is true but in speaking with a few vendors that sell RO units...chloramine in high amounts will pass through the membrane unless a specific filter (chloramine filter) is in place. Every year or so your water company will "shock" the water lines to clear out the lines. Mind you the levels are low in areas but in some thay are very high. Im just saying its better to be safe and get an upgraded chloramine filter rather than lose your tank. I have called my water company and verified what my vendor was saying.
 
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tizzo

Guest
This is pulled from the article that will show up if you google the above... It's the only info I have found, but it's worth consideration...
There has been much debate over whether commercial RO/DI systems used by aquarists are actually removing chloramine in adequate quantity. The concern is not whether they can theoretically do so, but whether the actual units allow sufficient contact time between the water and the activated carbon for the units to do an adequate job.
I have been using a Spectrapure RO/DI system (CSP25DI) for years, and my water does contain chloramine, so naturally I was interested to know if it was up to the task.
In discussing the issue with Charles Mitsis, President of Spectrapure, he said that my water was among the most difficult to successfully remove chloramine from because the pH was high, and he was not sure that the unit was adequate. The reasons for being concerned were that:
1.Monochloramine is the most difficult of the three chloramine species to remove because it is small (allowing it to pass through a reverse osmosis membrane).
2. Monochloramine is the most chemically stable of the chloramine species, so is the hardest to break down (as on activated carbon).
3.Monochloramine predominates over the other forms in tap water at pH above 7 (dichloramine predominates at pH 4-7).
4.The pores of the activated carbon may become plugged with sediment over time, reducing the effectiveness of the carbon at breaking apart chloramine.
5.At high pH, the pores of the RO membrane can swell, resulting in poorer rejection of impurities.
 

jints

Member
Originally Posted by Tizzo
http:///forum/post/2598618
This is pulled from the article that will show up if you google the above... It's the only info I have found, but it's worth consideration...
good article
sounds familiar but that really went into detail. I was also told that your RO/DI unit will do the job but for how long is the question and that depends on the amount of chloramine in the water...or in his case....what KIND. Interesting. I would rather be safe.
By the way where the heck is Land o lakes Florida?
 
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tizzo

Guest
About 30 minutes north of Tampa. I think we are on an underground well system. There is no flouride in the water so I do not think anything is added either, but I will call to be sure.
Why, you in Florida?
 
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tizzo

Guest
So your really 25 posts new then??
Betcher happy with the last Super Bowl.
 

jints

Member
Yea new to the site but not to the hobby. Im in the process of setting up a 120 (almost done). I had a 75 a few years ago and was introduced to the hobby by a neighbor who gave me bad advice and bad habits which I broke when I did my own researching.
Couldnt be happier in the last SB.
18-1
 

macchicks

New Member
my water is treated only with chlorine not chlorimine. I have verified this thru the water company by phone and the water quality report.
Thank you for all the answers.
 

jints

Member
If you plan on buying a RO/DI unit....talk with your vendor and ask if the standard membrane will take care of the chlorine. Ask questions
 

camanuch

Member
thanks guys. im in the bronx does anyone know where i can get the water clarity paper work or what ever its called?? thanks guys.
 

macchicks

New Member
Here in Ohio the Water company is required to send one out each year.
I also found it at their online site.
I am sure they would send you one if you called your water company.
 
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