Ugh do I feel like an idiot...

wartooth1

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/385813/ugh-do-i-feel-like-an-idiot#post_3386338
Nothing is more frustrating than to give advice and it not be taken. In the end it's your tank and you have to make your own mistakes. So you have decided to use two things we tried to guide you away from, crushed coral and an UG filter. So forward from that point....
First thing to address..weight, I'm not sure how well UG filter grids can hold up to the weight of live rock. The grid was designed for gravel and some ornaments. Not the 35 to 40 pounds of rock your 40g tank will need. It's very possible it can do just fine because some folks on the site have used egg crate to place their rock on rather than the glass bottom of the tank. The grids caused different issues but I believe it had to do with gobies that couldn't get to certain areas to clean the sand.
It has been addressed that tiny bubbles caused from air stones get into the saltwater fishes gills and causes problems, to avoid this problem you can remove the airstone and just use the air tube down the UG tubes making the bubbles larger. I will still do the same job of pulling from the bottom without the tiny bubble issue and remove the threat they may cause.
Crushed coral and the underground grid....I don't THINK (I am not sure) you can use live sand with an UG it is too fine, the CC is large like gravel, that's why it works with an UG filter but it's not good for certain fish. So when you stock your tank be careful to not get any burrowing fish like certain gobies or wrasses. The larger substrate is harder for snails to clean up and you may land up with cleaning the substrate yourself.
For me, one of the most wonderful part of a SW tank was having a CUC, and me not doing stuff like vacuuming the substrate...so you may have made more work for yourself. I say may because I have not used an UG filter ever, but I know how horrible CC is to keep clean and looking good. I removed it from my tank after 3 months.
You do need power heads. The bubbles may bring oxygen to the tank and move the water surface a little, but it does not create a current. The current is the life of the ocean and your SW tank. Corals feed from the water passing across them, they can't move on their own, the current is what makes the corals dance..without it they just lay there and starve, the current also carries away their waste. The current also passes over the live rock keeping it clean and healthy.
I have two bubble lines in 30g my seahorse tank which is loaded with soft corals. Still I use three spray bars and a small power head to create my water current. Its hard to see the bubbles in the picture but it should help with a visual of what I'm talking about.

/>I'm sorry you feel this way. For the record, I didn't choose to have an UG filter, it was already set up in the tank when I got it. It is also not using airstones. It is currently connected to a mechanical pump which is both sucking water through the coral sand and providing some circulation. There are no air bubbles. When I went back to the store to see if I can swap out the UG filter for an alternate kind of filter they told me how the UG filter is the best and its a bad idea to not use it. So I may go to a different store after weekend and get something I can replace the UG filter with from people who are willing to show me my options.
As far as the other filter goes, they said it is a wet/dry filter. Water gets sucked up into the roof and passes through two compartments. One compartment is full of little ceramic pieces and the other compartment is full of bio balls. The water then is returned to the tank on the other side.
If I remove the UG filter and only used the other filter thats in the tank, would I need to remove all of the coral sand or can I just put the live sand on top of it?
The tank doesnt have any paperwork, so I'm only going by what I see and what was described to my by the fish store.
 
S

siptang

Guest
Wow, flower very extensive!
love your horse tank!!!
OP, I 100% concur with everything flower said above. Couldn't have said any better then that!
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wartooth1 http:///forum/thread/385813/ugh-do-i-feel-like-an-idiot/20#post_3386366
I'm sorry you feel this way. For the record, I didn't choose to have an UG filter, it was already set up in the tank when I got it. It is also not using airstones. It is currently connected to a mechanical pump which is both sucking water through the coral sand and providing some circulation. There are no air bubbles. When I went back to the store to see if I can swap out the UG filter for an alternate kind of filter they told me how the UG filter is the best and its a bad idea to not use it. So I may go to a different store after weekend and get something I can replace the UG filter with from people who are willing to show me my options.
As far as the other filter goes, they said it is a wet/dry filter. Water gets sucked up into the roof and passes through two compartments. One compartment is full of little ceramic pieces and the other compartment is full of bio balls. The water then is returned to the tank on the other side.
If I remove the UG filter and only used the other filter thats in the tank, would I need to remove all of the coral sand or can I just put the live sand on top of it?
The tank doesnt have any paperwork, so I'm only going by what I see and what was described to my by the fish store.
Hi,
The UG filter is fine, my only concern would be tiny bubbles...since what you discribe won't cause that, you should be good to go. You must stay with the crush coral if you use it because the other sand will be sucked up into your pump and ruin it.
The finer sand will land up on the bottom falling through the CC creating a problem so choose one or the other.
The wet/dry would be plenty of filtration without the UG, you don't need anything else as long as it's the right size for your water volume. The biological filter in your tank is the substrate and rock and it is the most important. The mechanical filter and it's media gets out large particals to give the water a clear polished look. Pure RO mixed with a good salt for the best water quality, plenty of live rock and sand..a good current and your tank can thrive with a hang on the back penguin filter...the cheapest filter out there.
Just remove the UG if you want to go with sand instead of CC. Regardless you need a couple of power heads to create your water current. Tanks don't come with instructions only the equipment...LOL.... according to each of them their product is the very best for your tank.
To make matters even more confusing...every person has a different idea on what equipment is best to use. Some live by the rule you need a skimmer, others will say you don't. For every different person you ask you will get another way to set up your system. The best you can do is patiently listen to opinions, look at the pros and cons of running your tank like that and decide which is best for you. You can set it up to tweak it daily or run it automatic with little done on your part.>
Here is an example of a few I have used:
Hang on the back...PROS: easy to swap out media, creates surface movement, easy to clean and cheap to buy. CONS: Creates saltcreep, media is premade and expensive because you must purchase what goes with your brand of HOB..God forbid if you can't find it or it gets discontinued.
Canister: PROS: lots of space for different media, runs silent, you can add a spray bar to move the surface water a huge plus. Cons: Maintainance gets old because it should be cleaned every two weeks to keep nitrates from becoming an issue. Its runs quiet and it's easy to forget about it.
Sump: PROS: extra water volume, a great place to put the heater, and other unsightly stuff, changing media is a snap and it does not need to be cleaned, just wiped down. CONS: loud bubbling brook kind of noise ( some like it, others it drives them crazy) very open under the stand so little kids must be watched. Must be vigilant that nothing gets clogged or if a pump stops working causing an overflow.
I'm sorry I don't have any insight on a wet/dry or an UG filter since I have never used them. However from what I have been told, a wet/dry is sort of a combo of a canister and sump. If you go with the wet/dry you can get rid of the bioballs and use rock rubble in their place, increasing the natural filtration which is a good thing. One the very top of the new hobbiest section are 101 tips for setting up. Follow the basics and you will be fine.
 

tur4k

Member
I agree with pretty much everything Flower said except for replacing bioballs with rock rubble. Some people do it, but I personally don't see the benefit. Bioballs and rock rubble accomplish the exact same thing. Surface area for beneficial bacteria. The only difference that I can see is that bioballs are easier to keep clean.
If you are worried that the bioballs are going to cause a nitrate problem then don't use them, but I wouldn't replace them with something that has the same potential issues.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tur4k http:///forum/thread/385813/ugh-do-i-feel-like-an-idiot/20#post_3386873
I agree with pretty much everything Flower said except for replacing bioballs with rock rubble. Some people do it, but I personally don't see the benefit. Bioballs and rock rubble accomplish the exact same thing. Surface area for beneficial bacteria. The only difference that I can see is that bioballs are easier to keep clean.
If you are worried that the bioballs are going to cause a nitrate problem then don't use them, but I wouldn't replace them with something that has the same potential issues.
I didn't think you had to clean rock rubble....we never clean our tank rocks so I assumed rock ment no cleaning. I never used anything like it so I'm no expert by any means.
 

tur4k

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/385813/ugh-do-i-feel-like-an-idiot/20#post_3386895
I didn't think you had to clean rock rubble....we never clean our tank rocks so I assumed rock ment no cleaning. I never used anything like it so I'm no expert by any means.
We have clean up crews in our tanks. The potential problem with bioballs is that uneaten food can get stuck in the bioballs and start producing nitrates. Same thing can happen with rocks. You can't really make use of a CuC for the wet/dry since the balls (or rubble) aren't submerged, but instead have water trickling over them. Any organic matter that makes it into the wet/dry is going to stay there until it rots away or you clean it out. That is why you need to keep a clean piece of filter floss before the bioballs and why you should take the balls out and float them in "dirty" water from a water change every now and then.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemmy http:///forum/thread/385813/ugh-do-i-feel-like-an-idiot/20#post_3386916
I clean my rock in my DT. I blow off any detritus that may form with my turkey baster.
The only time I ever had anything on my rock to blow off is when I didn't have enough water current. Now in my seahorse tank I blow off lots of stuff from the back wall. I am working on making the flow back there better. The turkey baster method does work and the corals always looked so happy after..LOL
Tur4k, that makes sense. I never used a wet/dry I had no idea.
 

xcali1985

Active Member
I had a wet dry filter when I started my 55 gallon 2 yrs ago. It was pretty much impossible for food or pretty much anything else to get lodged in it.
It had a tray that had filter floss in it and holes underneath it that allowed water to drain how onto the balls. So if any food was to get sucked into the overflow it was caught by the floss.
 

wartooth1

Member
Hey Flower thanks for your advise. I feel a little more confidant about my UG filter now lol. I found a neat artilcle online that had some great tips for running a UG filter in a saltwater tank that honestly does not sound like there's really any additional work other than what I was expecting to do anyway.
Everyday since I've set up the tank I've been checking to make sure all of the invilved chemicals were in thier ideal parameters (which they were) so yesterday I let my wife pick out 2 small fish. Once they were acclimated they immediatly hid in the rocks and when I could see them I could tell they were stressed, but today I am happy to report that now they are out of hiding and swimming around and eating the food I fed them this morning. A pair of happy fish they seem to be! :)
As far as all my equipment goes, I'm going to keep everything as is. Like I've said in the past, several fish stores in my area told me it would be impossible to set up what I wanted for under $2000, but I was able to get what I wanted for under $600 (well... $750 after adding the rock) using the setup I have now... if a little extra work saved me around $1300 then thats great. Who knows, if this all works out, then maybe by next year I can give some advise to new people looking to start a new tank on a budget lol.
I'm just going to take things extra slow when it comes to any additions or changes to the tank, but at the moment everything is running smooth! 8D
 

wartooth1

Member
Well... I FINALLY decided to get rid of the UG filter... I didn't realize it but someone explained to me how the UG filter prevents live rock from doing it's job... and also the other day when I went back to the store that sold me the tank to buy some more live rock, I noticed how even their saltwater tanks they were not using UG filters so I thought to myself if they insist the UG filter is the way to go in my tank, why do they not use it for their tanks hmm...?
 

deejeff442

Active Member
what is a ug filter? under gravel like from 25 years ago?
i think they are still used in fresh water but not sure?
 
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