Water change procedure?

spyderreef

Member
I am going to do a 10-15% water change. Does it matter if the lights are on or should they be off? I am making my water in a large container with a powerhead and a heater. Does it need to sit for a couple of days after I mix it or can I use it the same day?
 

jim672

Member
spyderreef,
I don't think it will matter to any of your livestock, but for safety's sack, I always have my lights/hood off the tank when doing a water change. Water and electricity don't mix!! ;)
Roughly a day before use, with the powerhead and heater running, should be fine to thoroughly mix the new sw. (Assume you're using RO/DI or distilled water, right?)
Jim
 

mr . salty

Active Member
Actually the lighting should be OFF,and remain off for the rest of the day after a waterchange...
This is to reduce stress.
And as we all know,STRESS can and will cause BIG problems.
 

spyderreef

Member
Thanks for your reply. I have a RO/DI unit that I have fixed to automatically top off my tank. When I want RO water I just move the tube to my collecting tank. I usually have what I need by the next day.
 

jim672

Member
Mr. Salty,
I confused. I have never left my lights off for the whole day following a 10% water change and have not, ever, had any negative reaction from any fish or corals. My actinics are set to come on at 11:30 and I'm always finished cleaning and changing water right before that.
As a matter of fact, I would have guessed that leaving the lights off for a whole day would cause more problems with corals than changing some water.
Jim
 

jim672

Member
I'm really confused by your previous answer. Never heard that before. Can you elaborate?? Thanks.
Jim
 

ntvflgirl

Member
Not only that, are you supposed to let your water sit for a day before you put it in? I just mixed mine up and put it in after I knew the salt was dissolved. Can someone clue me in on a correctly done water change? Before I hurt something....
 

bheron

Member

Originally posted by spyderreef
Thanks for your reply. I have a RO/DI unit that I have fixed to automatically top off my tank. When I want RO water I just move the tube to my collecting tank. I usually have what I need by the next day.


Spdyerreef - I like that idea of having an RO/DI unit automatically topping off your tank! Please tell me more about it! How do you do it? Did you rig it yourself or did it come that way?
Thanks!
 

spyderreef

Member
It is very cool. Wish I could have designed it myself. I have a SpectraPure RO/DI unit. You will find what I bought on their website. It is a small pump that hooks up to you RO unit. There is a small float valve, similar to a toilet valve, that I put in my sump. When the water get to a certain level the pump turns on and it starts to make water which feeds right into the sump. When the water reaches a specific level, it shuts off. If I want RO water for other things, (I have a wall fountain in my office) I place the tube in another container. I do need to wait until my sump calls for water. I need to be very careful not to forget what I am doing. The way I have it set up now is not dummy proof but it beats hauling water the way I use to.
 
S

simm

Guest
I think mixing salt and waiting to put it in is a personal pref. Iv always for the last 5 years always mixed in a 5 gallon bucket, put in any dechlorinator. Let the salt disolve and add.
 

col

Active Member
If he wants to do a 10% water change for 125G, how and where can he pre mix 12G of water?
 

broomer5

Active Member
I'm a firm believer that being successful in this hobby is directly related to how one pays attention to the small details.
Water changes included.
I'm sure everyone has their "way" of doing things - and that's cool. No one can say what is the "right-way", only what works for them.
I'm very detail oriented when it comes to water changes.
There's a mental checklist that I go through each time.
I ran water tests on my procedure - and made corrections along the way. It works for me - the tests say it's right for me - and the tank supports my thoughts.
I'd be glad to discuss this mental list ( basically cause I'm mental to begin with :rolleyes: ) and discuss it with others.
I'd like to hear what others do as well. Maybe a new thread ?
That being said ....
If you want to read a good article ( I think it's good ) read the following. It opened my eyes to a lot I was unaware of.
I love the way Craig Bingman writes - he covers his topics well and supports his views with science - not just opinions.
mixing saltwater
 

ntvflgirl

Member
Broomer, I read the article you posted. My question is, do you test your new saltwater's ph before you put it into the tank, and do you test the new water for anything else? Besides sg, of course.
 

broomer5

Active Member
ntvflgirl
Not as much as I used to, but I used to test each and every batch for pH, alk, calcium and phospates.
I've tested for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as well.
This is how I found out my tap water was crap.
Phosphates and nitrates were present - but unpredictable.
This of course was after fighting nuisance alage coming out my ears.
It also led me to forking out the dough for a RO/DI unit.
Testing for pH, alk and calcium led me to rather funky conclusions with newly mixed saltwater too.
This is how I found out how important it is for ME - to aerate my RO/DI water overnight - BEFORE mixing in the saltmix.
This tooks months to figure out - and I wasn't sure what was going on until I spoke to the tech department at Aquarium Systems-Instant Ocean in Mentor Ohio.
I spot check newly mixed saltwater now only when I open a new bucket of Instant Ocean. If all tersts check out following my same exact mixing procedure - then I move ahead.
I don't like doing water tests anymore than most people. Sometimes it's a pain in the you-know-what.
But ....... it's the only way to have a good idea on what's going in the tank. Learning it the hard way stinks - but will change my behavior fast. Got too much time, effort and money wrapped up in the tank to take too many short cuts.
Once you get your procedure down - and follow it each and every time, and do a series of tests once or twice - as long as you don't deviate from the procedure - I feel it's safe to skip some of the tests.
Testing stinks, but not near as bad as trying to "fix" something wrong with the tank - ya know;)
sorry for long reply - simple question - not so simple answer.
 

jim672

Member
Broomer,
Thanks for the additional info. I think I've known all of that and do try to follow about the same procedure you do.
BUT.......Mr. Salthy's initial response to my first response still has me baffled! I've never heard of turning the lights out.....and leaving them off for a full day.....when you do a water change.
Salty has not responsed to me........do you do that when you do water changes?
Thanks!
Jim
 

angus

Member
Here's my water change procedure for my 30 gallon, I hope it helps.
I use a 10 gallon tank to hold the water, and I make up my water about a week before I use it.
1. Add water, run airstone, power head, heater for a day without salt. (warm water dissolves the salt faster and better)
2. Add salt, wait a day.
3. Test salinity, adjust salt.
4. Before you add new water, test ph and adjust.
You can do this faster if needed, skip the initial saltless day, but I try to give the salt as much time to get dissolved and aerated, heated to the same tank temp. etc...
I change about 20% a week as I don't run a skimmer on this tank. I usually do the water change in the morning before the lights go on. This seems to work fine, the fish don't seem overly stressed.
This tank has been set-up for almost two years without any fluctuation in parameters
 
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