I asked him what is the ideal temp for a reef? His response:
"Hmmm, good question. Well, I would say that what "ideal" is depends on what the goals are. If the goal is maximize coral growth in addition to providing a temperature that is suitable for other organisms I'd shoot for a temp. of 27-28.5 C (80.6-83.3 F). Most corals experience a optimum for linear extension in that range and many experience a calcification optimum in that range too. Some corals have calcification optima at higher temps, but most are pretty close to max. calcification at about those temps. These are also very comfortable and normal temps for any of the animals in out tanks, even those from cooler places like Hawaii. These are, essentially, summer-time temperatures from cool places and mean year-round temps for average and warm places. So, I wouldn't necessarily call this ideal for every contingency, but I'd shoot for a mean temp of 80-83 and call it good enough."
Then I asked him if he feels that temperature fluctuations of say 5 degrees in a day are acceptable? Or do he feels it is better for a reef tank to stay at a constant temperature with little to no change? His response:
"I think that's probably fine to have some fluctuation. I've never had problems with daily fluctuations of up to 4-5 F (e.g., min. 79-80, max 84). I would try to keep the daily fluctuation from exceeding this as I don't think allowing the temp. to fluctuate more than this is necessarily a good thing. Is it tolerable? Yes, most definitely. Is it stressful and less than ideal? Probably. Something to keep in mind is that nature does not necessarily offer an ideal environment. There are storms, freshwater deluges, extreme low tides, slack waves from doldrums, etc. which all kill corals. Yes, corals and many animals can tolerate environments like reef flats with lots of daily variability, but they may be growing in spite of these conditions, not because of them. For that reason I wouldn't advise draining a tank twice a month and letting the corals fry under the halides for an hour, even though corals in nature might tolerate similar conditions. Having said all that, a little variation with a range of say 5 F daily is fine IMO. Also, a little fluctuation tends to desensitize corals to bigger swings if something goes wrong (chiller fails, AC breaks, etc.). Sometimes folks try to keep the temp. rock solid (e.g., 78+/-0.1 F) only to find that when the temp. does spike for whatever reason temps. that are normally tolerable (e.g., 84 F) cause severe bleaching. A mean temp. +/- 1-2 F daily is fine IMO and maybe even desirable."
BangGuy was correct about the lagoons having drastic temp fluctuations, that is where he was diving in the Caribbean when the temp rose 8 degrees in one day. I was unaware of the differences, and asked for a greater description of both.
"Most of the corals we keep live both on forereefs and in lagoons. The lagoon is really part of the reef though. We can separte lagoon from forereef sure, but I'm not sure how we could talk about the 'reef' without including the lagoon it forms. Water motion is generally the most powerful structuring agent in determining which corals are present (light intensity is a close second). Water motion is strongest on the uppermost part of the forereef, on the reef crest, and onto the reef flat for a distance. The further down the forereef you move or the further over the reef flat (and into the lagoon) the calmer the water flow. You'll find corals that grow well at mid-depth on the slope also growing in the lagoon where water motion is similar. Corals that grow deep on the forereef will also grow in the lagoon if it is calm. Corals and other animals are collected from all over these environments. Generally the only limitation to collection is that people rarely go below 30 m (98 ft) or so to collect, so animals that occur only at depth tend to be pricey and sporadically available. Diving to 200 or 300 ft. requires special equipment and training, afterall, and is dangerous if not done correctly."