Water Tests + Skimmer Question

1guydude

Well-Known Member
the water dispencer units at my local grocery dispence R/O...eventually im sure ull find everything ur lookin for lol. R u dying for fish yet?
 

swisswiss

Member
man forget about it! im itching! i love all animals though and id rather wait than see one die from my impatience. once the system well thrown im def. getting a mandarin. started reading about them now, seems feeding them is a problem as they love live bait. but im still eons away from getting any fish anyway
 

bang guy

Moderator
If your tap water has no phosphate, nitrate, copper, zinc, cromium, silicates, or tin then it's probably safe to use but I would still agree that if you can get distilled to use it. You might also consider buying an RO filter yourself. If the water really is that good then the RO membrane will last a really long time.
I tend to do water changes during the cycle to keep ammonia below 0.5ppm. This keep more of the life that's inside your live rock alive and has long term benefits. Super high ammonia levels during the cycle can create a nusiance algae issue that can be frustrating to resolve.
I would not even test PH during the cycle... it will fluctuate wildly during the cycle and if you try to fix it there's a good chance you'll just be wasting your time (best case) or cause damage (worst case).
 

swisswiss

Member
noted thx bang. didnt know about the algae ammonia relation, at the moment my ammonia levels are off the chart guess a w/c could be in order
 

bang guy

Moderator
h
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwisSwiss http:///forum/thread/386641/water-tests-skimmer-question/20#post_3397913
noted thx bang. didnt know about the algae ammonia relation, at the moment my ammonia levels are off the chart guess a w/c could be in order
Many hobbiests like to have high ammonia levels during the cycle. The belief is that it cycles better and faster. I believe the exact opposite, that a low constant ammonia level cycles better and faster.
I just wanted you to know that there are a lot of opinions in this hobby so it's your responsibility to do what makes the most sense for your situation. I can tell you that in my 30+ years of experience, the best long term solution is rarely the easiest and often the more expensive solution is the cheapest in the long run.
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
+1 about expensive being cheapest in the long run. You buy crappy equipment and later you go out and buy the more expensive unit, so you end up wasting ur money in the first buy anywayz!
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
LOL its all good...i filled my bowfront tank up with tap when i first started....than i used distilled for awhile....finally i found a R/O dispencer and i use that now!
I NEED AN RO/DI UNIT BAD!!!
 

swisswiss

Member
here is what is in Geneva tap water;
http://www.sig-ge.ch/eaudegeneve/eau-et-bien-etre/composition-eau/index.lbl
where i live i get the "eau du lac" (lake water)
and from what I'm researching all these elements are bad for the tank, but wont a well set ecosystem handle this?
 
S

siptang

Guest
nope, they won't handle it well.
phosphate = algae.
metals & copper = poison for the fish
Not the optimum condition for your fish to thrive in.
I noticed this during my cycling also.
I did 50% water change on my first week, another 50% on the second and 25% third and fourth week.
(I also added more then 100lbs of live rock in my 72g bow front tank)
Then stuck to my 10-15% usual weekly change.
I still can't control my phosphate even though I use phosban.... I blame the tap water for this.
 

swisswiss

Member
so turns out there was somehting wrong with the ammonium test unit, got a new one today and the results are between 0,05-0,1 mg/l
 
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