What do these fish have? pics!

badoleross

Member
I have a PB Tang that had what I thought was ich but now I am not so sure. The small white spots that had developed on him now have, for a lack of better words, small streamers coming off of them. While looking at the PBT I notice a nasty looking spot on a Yellow Tang. Both of these fish are in a 220 FOWLR tank. I can get them out but it will mean pulling the 240lbs of LR out first. There are currently 11 fish in the 220 and all I have for a QT is a 55. Can anyone tell me what I have and a course of treatment?

 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
How long have you had these tangs? Its hard to tell what is going on with the YT. Is that a wound?
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Yes, the PB, does look like ich, and perhaps the scales are protruding out due to the parasite imbeded in the flesh.
 

badoleross

Member
Here is a better picture of the PBT. The YT has been around a couple months. I have had the PBT for quite some time but the tank crashed a month ago and the PBT went through heck. The scales on the PBT are fine. The things you see of the image are the small little streamer things coming off the spots.
 

badoleross

Member
I have no idea what started the YTs injury/infection. While looking at the PBT my wife moticed the YTs injury. Any suggestions ona course of treatment? I started treating the entire DT with Parasite Stop (sorry Beth). I have heard both good and bad about this ite but I have a 220 with more fish then I can stuff into a 55 QT. Now, I have a bacteria or fungal infection on top of that. If the ich does not clear by the end of the treatment period I will be moving everyone into a QT.
 

mavgi

Member
first by the direction on stop parasite you will need to buy at least 1 gallon of the medication and even more . (5ml per 10 gallon 2 time a day for 5 days)
when you dose this medication in 220 gallon tank you will sting the tank and even to destroy everything you take a big risk. i don't tell you what to do this is your tank and your decision but i test this medication in 20 gallon QT and i can tell from my experience it's junk again i read here that some member said that the have success with it and i can said that it was just a luck for short time ,i tell this because i use with this medication and at the begin i thought wow it's work and after a while the ich show back , more then that if you have as you said bacteria or fungal infection on top of that so the risk to high and i don't want to talk about all the water parameter that will change and can kill all the tank.it's a big system and you will need to dose a lot at every time between the water circulation and the air about 30% of the medication evaporate , your ph level can change dramatic and the stress to the fish will be more high .
i am apology don't want to be the one that look like destroy your hope i am just give and say my advice and if you can treat the fish with hypo in 2 tank it will be better the price for the medication for one gallon it's about $80 without the shipping and if you have already one QT so you can buy at this price one more and do a safer treatment to your fish.
good luck
 

badoleross

Member
I welcome your advice but the meds are here and the process has started. I am at the point where I might as well see it through and see what my outcome is. Worst case is it does not work and I can pass that info on here to others. Right now, my plan is to see the Parasite Stop treatment through to the end (saturday) and if that does not work or the probems resurface, I will pull out all of the LR, catch the fish and get them in a QT. This is probobly what I shoud have done in the first place but i guess I was looking for the magic pill. Knowing the PBT does has ich is actualy good news because I can treat that. My concernat this point is to figure out what the yellow tang has. Is it bacteria or fungal? Can I treat my 220 for both bacterial and fungal infections at the same time? Please understand that in a perfect world I would place the sick fish in a QT tank and treat them. But I have a 220 full of LR, 11-12 fish that will needd to go into a 55. I have focused on the 2 fish that are my primary concern, but there are other fish that are showing signs of ich as well. I truely believe that I will end up with everyone in a QT and doing HYPO to cure the ich problem. Can I run hypo and treat for bacterial and fugal infections or is this too much on the fish.
 

mavgi

Member
once i have 2 problem fin and ich , the ich was just at the start and the white spot was in the fin. i try the stop parasite with melafix when i saw that the ich keep stay i transfer the fish to other tank and i treat him with cupramine and melafix and those work together i kept the salinity at 1.014 .if you have problem with bacteria or fungal to so you will need pimafix+melafix together with hypo and i believe those can work together but i did not test all this mix together. (and you can call to ap at this # 1800-847-0659 and ask them if it will work all 3 together , when i ask them about the melafix + cupramine they told me that they never try them medication with other company but i try that and for me it's work)
some ppl use with Furacyn or Maracyn-Two to treat the infection but i did not try or read if they do it with hypo .
it's very hard to know or to tell how or if the fish can over all together because when the fish have parasite (ich) so his immune system low and the way how your pbt look in the picture it is can be danger and develop velvet if he will more stress . but i am sure that if you do hypo at the begin the low salinity will reduce the stress and i think that you will be able to add other medication. with respect to all the member here if i was you i would ask all those advice for the treatment from beth she have the best experience and knowledge here with fish Diseases IMO , again my apology to the other members i know that there are more member here with good experience to and maybe this happened to someone here in the past and he have success so it will be good to hear , but bet with 15 years experience and i believe she can direct the best way for the treatment in this case.
p.s i know that ap have medication for ich to liquid and it's with cooper in you can ask them if all can work together. (in QT) because the cooper.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
It is not a good idea to use meds in tank. That looks like ich, and hyposalinity is the best choice. Take a look at the posts on ich and hyposalinity that are written up in the FAQ Thread at the top of this forum.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
You need to fix whatever caused the fish to become stressed before you see any kind of results from the Stop Parasite. If the fish are still stressed, the parasites/problems will not go away.
Why don't you start by posting your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, kH, salinity, and temp)?
 

swlover

Member
I think, by the pics it is ick and flukes..I have seen those little streamer parasites before but in FW. And that is what they look like, you may have both. If you are going to treat them treat them for both. I don't know enough about what medications will treat flukes, you'll have to do some research. It may not be flukes but it sure looks just like those. Hope this helps
 

swlover

Member
Ok In did a quick search on treatments and it sounds like it could be any or all of the following: flukes, ick and or lice. This is what I found out on three different sites:
One of the simplest and fastest ways to reduce and eliminate the numbers of all types of ich organisms, as well as flukes and lice that are parasitic on saltwater fishes is to give them a quick freshwater dip or bath. This method of hyposalinity is very effective, takes little time to prepare for, and is strongly recommended as the first step in treating ich diseased fish prior to placing them into a QT for long term treatment with the proper medication for what ails them.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: Less than 10 minutes
Here's How:
1. Fill a plastic container of choice with an appropriate source of freshwater, such as RO/DI filtered water. If you have no choice but to use tap water, be sure to dechorlinate it first.
2. To prevent unnecessary shock and stress, try to match the pH and temperature of the freshwater to that of the aquarium water the fish will be removed from.
3. To prevent ammonia from building up in the treatment water, add an ammonia eliminating product. AmQuel by Kordon is highly recommended for this purpose, and it is a dechlorinate as well (shop & compare prices).
4. Although an optional step, it is recommended that some type of antibiotic medication be added to the treatment water as well. Because fish will be confined in a small amount of water, probably with other fish, the freshwater will cause them to expel waste, which in turn will most likely foul up the water. A nitrofurazone based product works well to help protect the fish from being exposed to their own waste during the procedure.
5. Keep the water vigorously aerated during treatment. The simplest way to do this is to insert an air stone into the container.
6. Remove all the fish from the infected aquarium and place them into the freshwater. If you have a large number of fish to treat, do not overcrowd the container. You can do small groups at a time, changing the water after each group has been treated.
7. For the best results fish should remain in the freshwater for a duration of 3 to 4 minutes. If any fish is showing signs of undue stress after a minute or two, remove it.
Tips:
If when you initially put the fish in the freshwater they settle to the bottom on their sides and do not move about, don't worry, they usually upright themselves and start moving around within about the first minute. If concerned you can nudge them a little bit to stimulate movement, and if any fish looks to be overly stressed, remove it.
Sometimes during the dip/bath the water can become extremely fouled with waste. By making up and setting some extra treatment water aside it can be used to do water changes during the procedure if this occurs.
If you do not plan to quaratine new fish prior to placing them into the main aquarium, and as long as there are no signs of stress from being in transit, it doesn't hurt to give them a quick freshwater dip or bath as a preventative measure.
What You Need:
Plastic container
Ammonia destroying product
Nitrofurazone based medication
Air pump and air stone
Freshwater
QT
Has anyone tried this method??? It's worth a try if you think all else will fail.
 

mavgi

Member
yes for fluke formalin bath fresh water dip and cooper can help hypo suggesting to an if it was from the begin in QT it was better .but he want to check the stop parasite medication and already put it in his tank and can make all worse . he want to see till Saturday the test with the stop parasite in this point we can just said what we think.....
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Mavgi, could tell me how the Stop Parasite is going to make the fish any worse? If anything, it will help them with their immune system and metabolism.
 

mavgi

Member
as you see in the picture he have more then ich in his tank i sure you agree with that.
in stop parasite there is a note : "make sure you only have parasites , not a secondery infection,ie.bacteria. and has he said that he think that he have some type of other diseases in his tank.no one know what is the water level (or parameter) in the tank and what type diseases more exsit there .
there is warning in the stop parasite medication about the ph can drop when you dose this product in the tank , since it's 220 gallon tank the dose will be in big quantity "if you follow the direction" it can change the ph dramatically between the dose and he will need to fix it , the way how this 2 fish look from the picture shown that the pbt are infect very good with the ich and the yellow infect with fluke or flatworm diseases which stop parasite "not work for" the tang can develop in this position a velvet and again no one know what are the other fish in the tank infect .
i want to ask you it's 220 gallon tank with some type of diseases do you think or do you will suggest to treat it with stop parasite ? please let me know i am very interesting to know if you or any other person will suggest to do this in main tank with 220 gallon and more type of diseases
 

mavgi

Member
one more question lion_crazz if this was happened to you did you do that in your tank with 220 gallon and take this risk please let me know.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
I have never had ich in my 210 tank, so I have never needed to do that. I had velvet once (introduced from a piece of CURED live rock), and I bought neon gobies to get rid of it. It was gone in 4 days.
And yes, all of those things are on the bottle, so Ross is already aware of them. He is already aware that it is not for secondary infections. He also already knows that the pH and kH are very important when using this product.
If somehow I had a parasite in my main tank, I would not have a problem using Stop Parasite in my display tank because I know it works and it is totally safe for my fish, inverts, and rock. There is no way of getting the fish out of the display tank to re-quarantine them all, since I do not have a 210 gallon QT tank, and there would be absolutely no way to catch all of them (gobies, squirrelfish, etc.)
I have personally talked to the maker of this product several times, and he is someone that I would trust. That is why I took the chance and used it in my 75, and I never had any ill effects from it, and I never lost a fish to ich. That is the only "medication" I have ever trusted to use in any of my own tanks.
 

mavgi

Member
so i beileve that all of us want to see that it's work and help to cure his fish diseases personal i hope and wish it for him and by the way all of us try to help here and every one give some from his knowledge and experience without any interest for money we spend from our private time here and just try to help i wish you right and i hope to hear that he have success with that as you have and unfortunately i didn't have with this product.we just can wait and see the result .
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Yes, you are certainly right. We all want the best for his fish, and we are all here on our own time because we share a common love for fish and marine life.
 
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