What's the best way to get rid of hair algae?

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae#post_3413065
I can't post links to other forums here, but do a search on the web about dosing Kent Tech M (Magesium) for hair algae control as well. It is safe, we've done it. I'm not a fan of resorting to chemicals, but the Tech M treatment really does work. The problem with using a blenny, or a sea hare or a ton of snails is you have to figure out what to do with these creatures once the algae is gone, because they very often will starve. Some sea hares/blennies will accept frozen or algae sheets, but many do not. I tried a sea hair, it cleaned my rocks of other things, but not the hair algae that I wanted it for. Tried a baby fox face, and while he is working, he's now discovered that there is a supply of good being offered daily and doesn't seem as interested in hunting for his algae.
How does raising magnesuim affect the fish...or in my case....sea horses?
I read the article on hair algae you are talking about. My Seachem test kit says my mag. is 1350, the article says to boost it to 1600....that's a big swing..I have a bottle of "ions" for reefs raises magnesium fully dissolved....maintains strontium and boron..contsins no ammonia..... It isn't the Kents brand, but it will raise magnesium.

 

[btldreef]

I'm honestly not sure why it works, but it does. It hasn't shown any ill effects on fish or corals. I have read that it can upset snails.
Kent Tech M is the only one that will work. I do not know what it is that's in there, but everyone claims it's the only one that does the job.
I would definitely do a lot of research before I used it on the seahorses, but I've seen fragile corals do fine with it.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3414279
I'm honestly not sure why it works, but it does. It hasn't shown any ill effects on fish or corals. I have read that it can upset snails.
Kent Tech M is the only one that will work. I do not know what it is that's in there, but everyone claims it's the only one that does the job.
I would definitely do a lot of research before I used it on the seahorses, but I've seen fragile corals do fine with it.
From what I read it affects the algae' ability to photosynthize, on a molecular level, it can't absorb the light, it's like putting it in the dark. The algae is affected before other more complex organisims are. I noticed my neon green kenya tree coral is skinnier and not so bright, the finger leather frag is fine and so are the mushrooms. So I'm pretty sure anything that needs light to survive is affected.
I wouldn't recommend this method for reef tanks loaded with light needy corals. The Sea horses, snails, shrimp and fish have shown no ill affects.
I stopped the daily water changes because I would defeat trying to raise the magnesium. I took some gauze wrap and cut it into squares (cheap) this stuff is sterile so I'm not putting anything into the tank, but it gives me a grip to pull the HA out. I removed the rock and scrubbed it in saltwater with a brush getting most of the HA off of them.
So I'm finally making a dent on this stuff...I will never seed another sandbed with nutrients to help sea grass or macros thrive. Here I was blaming my little messy eaters.

 

[tirtza]

Do you think using Kent M would be a wise move for me? Everyweek I pluck as much as I can out of the sand but it always returns! Here's some info. on my tank...
This Sunday it will be week #5 since I first set up my 29 Gallon Oceanic Biocube. It's fully cycled (for about 4 weeks now). It's had live rock and zoa coral (it hitchhiked on the rock) in there since day #1. I've had a Lawn Mower Blenny and a Mexican Turbo Snail in there for 2 week. I've also had 3 Scarlett hermit crabs in there for a week (they've finally started to 'slowly' move around eating my snail/LMB poop).
The water parameters have remained steady at
Salinity = 1.025
Temp = 76.5 - 77.6
pH - 8.1
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = 0 (is it strange that this hasn't gone up? or is it just because I have a very low bio load?)
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I only keep the lights on for 5-6 hours a day. I've been topping off the water level (RO water+Kent Salt mix) when it goes below the 'Maximum' mark on a weekly or bi-weekly rate.
I changed the stock carbon filter from chamber #1 last weekend, as well as the carbon filter pad (the cut to size type) that I keep over the bioballs in chamber #2. I also just rinsed the new carbon filter from chamber #1 yesterday.
*I've been plucking the long hair algae from the sand 1x per week, and my Mexican Turbo Snail and LMB have been slowly eating their way through the algae on the rocks and back of the aquarium. The LBM is getting very fat but right now there is plenty of algae. When the snail and LBM clean off rock it's not long before more algae grows back. I'll resort to nori if/when there isn't enough algae for him to eat. He's quite the pig!
Thanks for your help!

 

[travelerjp98]

Does the LMB eat algae off of the sand? Do the snails or hermits eat off the sand?

 

[btldreef]

I think it might be to your benefit to at least look into the Tech M treatment, especially while your tank is still young.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Make sure you buy a reliable test kit before you start dosing magnesium. You don't want your levels through the roof and then add to it.
I have found that the more traditional means of removing hair algae are perhaps the better ones. Dosing a chemical to get rid of algae is usually the wrong way to go because you haven't fixed the source of the problem, you've only temporarily prevented it from growing. But that's just my opinion...

 

[tur4k]

Research ways to lower your phosphates. The hair algae won't grow without phosphates and phosphates are bad for corals. Low levels of phosphates interfere with calcification in stony corals. High levels of phosphates can harm corals.
Personally I control phosphates by doing regular water changes, keeping macro algaes (chaetomorpha) in my refugium and with a Phosban reactor. I also rarely use pellet food. Never use flake food. I rinse PE mysis when I use it.

 

[kiefers]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tirtza http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3415483
Do you think using Kent M would be a wise move for me? Everyweek I pluck as much as I can out of the sand but it always returns! Here's some info. on my tank...
This Sunday it will be week #5 since I first set up my 29 Gallon Oceanic Biocube. It's fully cycled (for about 4 weeks now). It's had live rock and zoa coral (it hitchhiked on the rock) in there since day #1. I've had a Lawn Mower Blenny and a Mexican Turbo Snail in there for 2 week. I've also had 3 Scarlett hermit crabs in there for a week (they've finally started to 'slowly' move around eating my snail/LMB poop).
The water parameters have remained steady at
Salinity = 1.025
Temp = 76.5 - 77.6
pH - 8.1
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = 0 (is it strange that this hasn't gone up? or is it just because I have a very low bio load?)
I only keep the lights on for 5-6 hours a day. I've been topping off the water level (RO water+Kent Salt mix) when it goes below the 'Maximum' mark on a weekly or bi-weekly rate.
I changed the stock carbon filter from chamber #1 last weekend, as well as the carbon filter pad (the cut to size type) that I keep over the bioballs in chamber #2. I also just rinsed the new carbon filter from chamber #1 yesterday.
*I've been plucking the long hair algae from the sand 1x per week, and my Mexican Turbo Snail and LMB have been slowly eating their way through the algae on the rocks and back of the aquarium. The LBM is getting very fat but right now there is plenty of algae. When the snail and LBM clean off rock it's not long before more algae grows back. I'll resort to nori if/when there isn't enough algae for him to eat. He's quite the pig!
Thanks for your help!
Why hello......... Personally, i'm not into the chemicle aspect of this. I would go get a NEW cheapy toothbrush and brush the H.A. off the rock, lightly, 2) go get yourself
emerald crabs. They will assist you in getting some of the H.A. down. Be carefull tho, take out to much anf the critters you have in there now may have nothin later. H.A. is normal in a new set up, stress not my young aquarist..... all will be good....... or should I say....................

 

[xcali1985]

I battled hair algae and the only thing I did was wash food and and increase water changes.
You will also need to increase flow, especially where the hair algae is. Keeping it from trapping food in itself will go a long way towards helping.
But, with you cycling, I would wait until nitrites and ammonia are at 0 before doing anything. Finish the cycle. Adding livestock to fight algae is hit or miss. I would concentrate on reducing waste. Remember that when hair algae. Dies it provides more nutrients to the rest of the hair algae.

 

[slice]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3416344
I battled hair algae and the only thing I did was wash food and and increase water changes.
I would concentrate on reducing waste. Remember that when hair algae dies it provides more nutrients to the rest of the hair algae.
+1
When I was battling HA, the most effective action I found was to feed quality foods that are rinsed before entering the tank. All outbreaks I've had was a direct response to sloppy feeding habits.
When using a tank dedicated toothbrush to knock down the length, I would use a spare power filter (an Aquaclear 70) to pickup the bits and pieces.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Brushing hair algae off of rocks releases spores back into the water. If you pluck them out by hand, then dip your fingers in fresh water, it kills the spores before you put your hand back into the tank.
I wouldn't use any chemicals, including phosphate absorbtion materials, to deal with your phosphates. Proper husbandry, care and maintenance is all that is required.

 

[kiefers]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3416360
Brushing hair algae off of rocks releases spores back into the water. If you pluck them out by hand, then dip your fingers in fresh water, it kills the spores before you put your hand back into the tank.
I wouldn't use any chemicals, including phosphate absorbtion materials, to deal with your phosphates. Proper husbandry, care and maintenance is all that is required.
That is very true, by scrubbing the rock in the tank will indeed free up the pores into the set up. However, if you brush it off in the old water from a water change the spores will not infect the DT. IME always scrub the rock during a water change and brush, yet again, carefully in the old water. Swish the rock a few times to ensure no pores are hanging on there. JMO

 

[tur4k]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3416360
I wouldn't use any chemicals, including phosphate absorbtion materials, to deal with your phosphates. Proper husbandry, care and maintenance is all that is required.
Say's the guy using a turf scrubber. Your turf scrubber is a method of exporting phosphates. So is my Chaetomorpha and Phosban. Telling someone that "Proper husbandry" is all that is needed to combat phosphates while running a turf scrubber is hypocritical in my opinion.
I absolutely recommend using a high quality phosphate absorbing media like Phosban, Ecophos or even Chemipure elite. Phosphates are evil and cause nothing but problems in a reef tank.

 

[meowzer]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tur4k http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3416626
I absolutely recommend using a high quality phosphate absorbing media like Phosban, Ecophos or even Chemipure elite. Phosphates are evil and cause nothing but problems in a reef tank.
YUP...I use Chemi-pure elite and GFO in a phosban reactor for my 225G...and BELIEVE ME.....I am always maintaining my tank

 

[kiefers]

with all do respect tur4k, what you say is correct however, the scrubber also contributes to much more than phosphates. It helps house pods, lower ammonia and trates. What Snake stated may have been taken out of context but the point is good husbandry habbits do help alot.
I do agree with you as well utilizing the assistance of the chem. elite. I do not personally have the room for the other equiptment but my phosphates (personally) are well under control with just the H2O changes and the elite.

 

[tur4k]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiefers http:///t/387539/what-s-the-best-way-to-get-rid-of-hair-algae/20#post_3416631
with all do respect tur4k, what you say is correct however, the scrubber also contributes to much more than phosphates. It helps house pods, lower ammonia and trates. What Snake stated may have been taken out of context but the point is good husbandry habbits do help alot.
I do agree with you as well utilizing the assistance of the chem. elite. I do not personally have the room for the other equiptment but my phosphates (personally) are well under control with just the H2O changes and the elite.
I agree with what you are saying. My macro's contribute to more than just phosphate removal, but the main reason that I use macro's is for nutrient export. I just didn't like the statement that one shouldn't use phosphate absorbing media and that good husbandry is all that is ever needed.
Some people can get buy with just rinsing food and water changes. Others need to supplement that with addition forms of nutrient exportation. Growing and harvesting algae is a good method. High quality iron based phosphate absorbing media is another good method. Personally, I feed pretty heavily because I like my fish fat and happy. I also have some SPS in my tank. So I use all of the above.