Where to put Overflow in New tank?

[lutz493]

Hello-
I have a 150 coming next week and will need to add an overflow.
The tank is acting as a room divider and will be seen from all 4 sides. I do not really want to have a hang-on Overflow because it maybe too visible. Putting the holes for a built-in in the corner will also be to noticeable so I am thinking.....
Can I drill in the center of the tank? Can I get clear PVC anywhere and have the Overflow/Return go up the center of the tank, put some LR around the lower half and then grow Ricordia mebbe up the rest so you cannot see?
Any of you have the same situation and can tell me what you did to solve it?

 

[thomas712]

Not looking to solve your problem but do have a thought for your consideration.
Eventually the spherical overflow box would get covered with coralline algea anyway, at about that time you could add mushrooms or polyps of many kinds to it, afraid that might take a while though.
Another thought, if you have your sand you can also get some portland cement and make your own circular wall around the acrylic pipe/overflow that you are making, not sure how it would adhere.
Now for the major problem, I think drilling the center of the aquarium is one of the worst areas, possible but worst. Once again not sure but I would think it would be a structual weekening of the bottom that might not be a good Idea. Not that I haven't seen a tank like that but it was made of acrylic. Maybe someone can tell us both if it is possible or risky with a glass one.
Thomas

 

[lutz493]

Yeah, I was worried about drilling in the center and losing support on the bottom of the tank.
Has to be a way to do it, I've seen free standing tanks online just gotta figure out how they do it )

 

[lemonshark]

Here is what I would do:
Disclaimer: Drill at your own risk. I should not be held responsible for any damage, bla bla, all actions you take with your tank if you decide to fallow this diagram, you are there for responsible for your own actions. Bla, bla…
So! with no further delays, here it is! :

 

[jumpfrog]

Is it too late to cancel your order? There are several manufacturers outthere who do center drilled tanks with weirs already built-in. Ocea is one that comes to mind.

 

[lutz493]

I was going to buy a tank already pre-drilled that way Lemon, but the problem is you can see that corner - Basically the tank is going to be sitting in the very center of a high traffic area between what is my living room and my Breakfast Bar so I do not want my overflow to be scene, best I can think is to put the overflow in the very center of the unit try to surround it with some LR and then the Coraline will grow and I'll try to grow Ricorida around the box for a more natural look.
_________________________________________________
Yes I can cancel it.
What is that web address?
Can email me at lutz493@ameritech.net
Thank you.

 

[shanev]

LemonShark
I dont think Oceanic does a true center overflow.
The do middle overflow along the back, but not one centered from front to back and left to right that I know of.
I have seen 4 sided overflow boxes so I know it possible.

 

[lemonshark]

This is a DIY Project.
If you don't want to drill on the center, you then need to improvise.
Tough crowd… but here is something I would do if I don’t want that acrylic box on one conner:

 

[shanev]

Thats a good design LemonShark. One thing I would do for sure with this design is use some sort of prefilter sponge/ or strainer. You wouldnt want to get a snail stucj in the piping as it would be a major pain to remove and clean under rock and sand.

 

[lemonshark]

A prefilter is a must have. Placing a sponge in the cup will help prevent that from happening. The good thing about using silicon to seal the pipes is that you can cut it with a knife to replace the pipes then you can scrape the remaining silicon. Putting the rocks in a bucket (with water of course) will help by allowing the sand to be pushed to the side where there are no pipes. That will allow easy work on the pipes. Using curve elbows pipes for the corners are a must too.

 

[lutz493]

Lemon...
Thanks.
That might just be the way to go.
Question now is can I buy Clear PvC anywhere?
Could I not just run the return to the middle as well? I am going to have a fairly deep sand bed it would cover 2-3 inches of pipe with little problem.
I suppose only thing I would need to worry about is if I needed to replace any of the pipes under the sand. I suppose as long as I have a very nice pre-filter set-up I should have little worry.
Thanks, Lemon.
That may save me money on the extra cost of paying for those holes.

 

[lemonshark]

If you want to run the returning water through the center, you can do it too. But slightly shorter than the overflow. About 2" or 3" shorter. You can even run the pipes on the back of the tank. That's both pipes. Then to the center. I really don't know which will work best.
Look at this layout:
Two pipes are running next to eachother. The same thing can be applied to the image above. Either way it will work. It depends on how you will give the pipes maintenance if one goes bad. Study both diagrams. They both can be use to return the water as you asked.
Another thing you should consider its the power lines. Where will you be running them from ?
Try the sealing. Just like a sealing fan. The cable should go all the way to your canopy.

 

[lutz493]

That is the idea I am going to go with, thanks Lemon.
I think I will just use Ball Valves so if I do need to change a pipe peice I can shut off water, take out the pipe and replace without getting sand into the sump.
My biggest concern I think is going to be if my Diamond Goby digs it up and exposes it (

 

[lemonshark]

That it’s why I though of running the pipes through the middle because the LRs are usually placed on the middle. Your Goby might not be able to expose the pipes.
Good Luck with your project!

 

[shanev]

Lemonshark-
Im interested on knowing why you think the return should be 2-3 in shorter than the overflow? I always thought it should be same/ slightly higher and then use loc-line to point it down. The concern I have is pulling 2-3 inches off the top of a 150 gallon due to back siphon. There better be a big sump.
Thats another issue make sure that both of these have no leaks as the tank could drain to the point of the leak given enough time. (and no power).

 

[lemonshark]

Ok… ShaneV, Lutz493 asked if he could have both pipes together and release the water from the center together with the overflow. There is no problem with that but you need to consider some possibilities that something might go wrong. You can do this experiment to see if it will cause a problem as fallow:

 

[lemonshark]

The problem might cause noise because the overflow might be sucking in air. I was just thinking before regretting. Always think before you build. It’s very important for me. Consequences, possibilities, etc are just part of any project. What he will be building might as well be called “Experiment” and it is not guaranteed to work. It is an idea that came to my mind when he asked the question “Where to put the overflow?”. Necessity is the mother of inventions.
If he didn't want the returning water at the center, then he could use the first image I posted. The pipe won't need to be shorter.
The cup that will act as an overflow will only allow the water to go down as long as it reaches the grids. A power failure will cause the water to siphon down and empty the tank to the end of the grid where no more water goes into the cup.

 

[shanev]

Makes sense, thanks for the explanation.
If it were me I would combine your 2 ideas. I would extend the return pipe up to the surface in the corner and tee off and go under the sand and up in the middle. The only thing I would have the corner piece do is go straight up and have one small hole drilled in it right below water level to prevent a back siphon.
On a standard size 150 72x18x28 2 inches below the overflow would pull back ~11 gallons into the sump before it breaks siphon. If the sump can handle this its no big deal.

 

[lemonshark]

It is true that he will need a very big sump to hold that much water in case of a back siphon from the returning pipe. But there are parts of pluming that will prevent this from happening.
I don't know where to get it or how is it call, but it works like this:
The water is pushed through the pipe one direction ==> and the pressure opens a small cap door then if there is a power failure the cap closes when there is pressure coming back. It’s like a door that it only opens to the outside not to the insede. That will prevent the water from pushing down to the sump. But, if he can’t get that piece, then he will have to invent something else.
I do agree with you on combining both ideas. The returning water pipe should be placed away from the overflow so it can be placed heigher.

 

[lemonshark]

Another good ideas, is to extend the returning pipe about a foot then raising it to the top… something like this: