Zero Nitrates.....how Is That Possible!

crzyfshygy

Member
If you have zero nitrates out there....LETS HEAR ABOUT IT!!!!!!
HOW DO YOU DO IT?
ZERO NITRATES IS WHAT EVERONE WANTS...SO LETS GET TOGETHER AND HEAR HOW TO DO IT!
 

murph145

Active Member
100G reef tank 0 nitrates
i have 150lbs LR a skimmer 2 fluval 404's running high grade carbon and i do a 15% water change every 2 weeks.... clean the fluvals every 2 weeks and replace carbon then too
nitrates have been zero for a long time i dont even check them anymore only thing i check for anymore is my calcium my alk and my magnesium for the sps corals
 

iiinadav

Member
I run a 10 gallon FO and 29 gallon reef. Both tanks maintain a pretty low nitrate level, because I'm well below the possible fish/bio-load. Skimming and weekly water change will also help attain low nitrates levels if you hit or go overboard on your bio-load.
 

ktsdad

Member
250 gallon reef and fish - been zero since day one!
50 sump with Bio-Balls
, EV240 Skimmer, Nu Clear cannister with carbon insert (changed monthly), 225lbs of live rock, 225lbs of live sand, 10% water changes weekly and feed once a day (minimal amount of home made food)
I currently have what I would consider a light bio-load.
Good Luck
 
T

tizzo

Guest
0 trates here...
Everything logic says that shouldn't be possible, but it's true.
crushed coral, measly canister filter, and 6 fish in a 90 gallon.
My secret... I DEFINATELY do not overfeed and I have 180 pounds of LR.
 

escape2thewater

Active Member
I have had zero NO3 for a couple years now in my 120g reef. I think it is b/c I only feed a few times a week, NOT everyday and a light bio-load(of fish), also over 200lbs LR & DSB has to help too
. I run ROWA-phos & carbon 24/7 too(only change it every other month or so at best though). Equipment is wet/dry sump w/bio balls, 16g fuge w/lots of caulerpa & mangroves, berlin turbo skimmer, 3 return closed loop, 2 maxijet 900's.
Escape
:happyfish
 

jonnywater

Member
0 nitrates since day one? That tank is eventually going to cycle, LOL.
I'll be honest and say that I do not have a freakin clue what I do. And my nitrates are 0. I have a bottom spray bar pushing water across 70 pounds of Argalive Fiji Pink in my tank. I have a powerhead in the other corner that pushes 295 GPH along the top. I have about 9 pounds of actual live rock. However I am running an Emperor 400 Bio-wheel that I change the filters out on once a week (filter floss should be changed atleast once a week - it is a dumpster). I do a 22% water change once a week with Tropic Marin. And I clean my Aqua C Remora twice a week. Whenever my bio-wheels are not in use, I float them in my aquarium. Here is my tank inhabitants
35 Nassarius Vibex (breeding)
12 Trochus Snails (breeding)
1 Sand Sifting Sea Star
20 Hawaiin Dwarf Zebra Crabs (breeding)
2 Percula Clowns
1 Yellow Eye Tang
I am thinking of adding a scribbled angel within the next week or so
1 Kenya Tree Coral
1 Purple/Green/Yellow center star polyp
1 Neon Green Feather Duster (weirdest thing I have ever seen)
1 Yellow Plate Coral
All in a 55 gallon and I have not seen a single thing that is bad go over 0.00 (except for cycling and the first few weeks there after). My biggest concern over the last 2 weeks is trying to balance out my magnesium. Since as we all know alk and calc effect PH and magnesium plays a vital role in there. Along with the addition of strontium and molybdenum being needed for the proper abosrbtion by corals. Once I got past the phophates, ph, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and silicates it was all a freakin wreck to get 10 chemicals all balanced in exact proper propotions. My KH (alk) and Calc, PH and strontium are all holding steady with daily "droppers" of the same proportions though - 30 drops of calcium per day, 45 drops of marine trace per day, 4 drops of iodine per day, 14 drops of a strontium/molybdenum mix per day blah blah blah.
I find it odd that someone could have 0 nitrates with a wet/dry. I have read that those things are notorious for producing nitrates. You figure that you have all that free floating food getting caught in the bio-balls. Then sure it does a HECK of a job breaking down ammonia and nitrites, but isnt supposed to control nitrates much at all. Parameters have been the same for about 6 weeks now (thanks to most of the members on this board
:cheer: ). However I keep hearing about overfeeding in tanks. I never heard of nature proportioning out food, so why should it happen in a tank? I feed atleast once a day and still do not have a single problem because every single bit is consumed (including fish waste) and digested UNDER the sand by most of my tank inhabitants. So it is broken down before I can even detect a problem in it. As in the vibex snails eat it, or the waste from others and then burry themselves in the sand. I stir my sand bed once a week also.
I just figure that if you are going to have a tank, it should be as close to nature as possible. Including the ready availibility of food.
 

jr2857

Active Member
i used to buy the chemicals that lower trates and trites in the store. now i do water changes till it's low
 

rubberduck

Active Member
Originally Posted by jr2857
i used to buy the chemicals that lower trates and trites in the store. now i do water changes till it's low
some of those chemicals that "supposably" lower nitrates, only hide the nitrates from the test strips... they make it seem like they are not present only they are. keep in mind this is most of them but not all the chemicals. be careful and imo stay away from them ad find the source of the problem.
 

tim_12

Member
I'm in the same boat as jonnywater. I just dont question it and accept that I must be doing something right. I have a 46 BF, 15 gallon fuge that's plumbed but not running, and a 5.5 gallon sump with a Coralfe Super Skimmer. I do 10% weekly - biweekly water changes, 66lbs LR and 2" sand bed. Other than that, I dont do anything else really. I buffer Calcium and Alkalinity as needed.
I guess I'm just lucky.
 

caomt

Member
i have a 29 gallon.. 0 nitrate...well i noticed when i did my water change with pure R/O or start it off with R/O i have no problems with nitrate..been quite a few weeks now no water change.. you know how it goes.. if it aint broke dont fix it.. lol
 

murph

Active Member
Zero nitrates is impossible in the enclosed system.
Undetectable with the typical testing equipment used by most home aquarium keepers. Yes
Completely confused or assuming inaccurate readings due to stale kits, kits of poor quality, wishful thinking, pessimistic thinking and difficult to discern color scales. I would say about half of us.
 

caomt

Member
how many fishes you got? i got about 200 snails 50 sitting in my tank and about 150 in my sump.. i need to off some..
 

offshore80

Member
I can't get below 50 ppm... I've tried... Lord I've tried.
I have a 300 gallon system. 300 lbs of LR, EV180 skimmer, Aquapure denitrifyer, 2 lbs of carbon, fuge and weekly 30 gallon water changes. Still 50ppm.
Bioload:
1 hand size purple tang
1 hand size sailfin
1 13" SS puffer
1 hand size Huma
1 hand size Clown trigger
1 4" maroon clown
2 hand size banner fish
1 hand size Lunar wrasse
I feed once a day 2-3 full squid diced up. If I don't feed daily they will eat each other. They live for supper time.
 

caomt

Member
what type of water you top off with? if anything i use to have my nitrates in 180+ deadly... then id id a 75 % water change after i returned some fish.. its all at 0 now
with reverse osmosis water that they sell at the store for about 35-45 cents a gallon.. or elseyou can get a R/O machine for a hundred and up..
 

stanlalee

Active Member
Originally Posted by Offshore80
I can't get below 50 ppm... I've tried... Lord I've tried.
I have a 300 gallon system. 300 lbs of LR, EV180 skimmer, Aquapure denitrifyer, 2 lbs of carbon, fuge and weekly 30 gallon water changes. Still 50ppm.
Bioload:
1 hand size purple tang
1 hand size sailfin
1 13" SS puffer
1 hand size Huma
1 hand size Clown trigger
1 4" maroon clown
2 hand size banner fish
1 hand size Lunar wrasse
I feed once a day 2-3 full squid diced up. If I don't feed daily they will eat each other. They live for supper time.
Its just going to be harder if even possible to keep nitrates as low in this type of tank as in a reef tank. Zooanthelle (sp) in corals do utilize carbon dioxide, nitrates and phospates just like any other algae/plant along with the fact most reef tanks are purposely kept at a low bioload and alot of the fish are algae or low comsumption eaters. Ever since I've converted from FO to reef nitrates of 5ppm or lower is the norm and all I have is 1lb of liverock per gallon and a skimmer. No fuge and crushed coral. Carbon run thru a skilter 250 (skimmer/bubbles turned off). I feed the fish every other day and corals every sat and tue alternating phyto and zooplankton. 30 gallon with 30% water changes every two weeks.
 

caomt

Member
hey stan.. what kinda lighting do you have? i want to get some corals but im afraid of lighting..
 
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