if you attach the frag with a rubberband and leave it for a few days it will attach itself to the LR and you wont have to spend the few bucks for super glue.
I have been told by many people that xenia does not ship very well. I am sorry for your loss. I'm sure they will give you credit for your next order. I would try calling if the e-mail is not working.
I just ordered m new test kits. Should get them somethinme next week. I hope everything checks out. Anyway thanks for all the opinions on salt mixes. I know what eveyone is talking about with IO not disolving well. I might gve reef crystals a try :thinking:
My lawnmover does not eat algea sheets for some reason. He likes to much on the rock work and when it is time for feeding he eats a majority of the falkes that i out in.
Originally Posted by zman1
Add at least these addtional test kits for a Reef: Alk, Ca, Mg, and PO4.
so thats alkalinity, calcium, ...I dont know what the other two are.
Ok, so what I have gathered so far is that salt really does not matter. It's all about prefrance. My goal is to have a thriving reef aquarium. Besides the basics (trates, trites, PH, amonia) what should I be testing for?
I'm curious now. I have always thought that yellow polyps produced their own food. I have never spot fed any corals...on to my question. How can you tell that the corals are eating the food? It's unlikly but perhaps a video may be in line? (sorry about hi-jacking)
Originally Posted by ninjamini
Real ocean water will always be comprised of exactly what you will find in the ocean.
There are never any variances in composition.
It contains all of the trace elements.
Its the only way to go. Why would you want synthetic?
Are you saying actual ocean water...or...