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It's not an Anemone. It's a soft coral (Sarcophyton sp.) commonly called a Toadstool. Very popular in the hobby.

200 - 400gph in my opinion but as Beth mentioned, distributed as evenly as possible throughout the tank. For many types of corals a circular flow works and is more efficient than a chaotic flow but there are also lots of coral that do not appreciate a constant laminar flow in only one...

I agree with Beth 100%. A variety of worms are crucial to keeping live rock healthy and beneficial. If you don't want any worms at all in your system then a fish-only system is more appropriate.

I do not see the red dot that is normally present on the inside of the main claw elbow. I do not believe this is an Emerald. I think this guy is a full on predator. Most crabs are virtually impossible to identify through a picture. There are a few very common exceptions but most really have...

Click on the Galleries tab at the top of the page. Then over to the right there will be a button for "Upload Photos".

This will sound dumb coming from a mod but how do I get to your picture gallery? Here's a link to my fish album ---> https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/c/index.php/galleries/my_album_photos/fish.661612 Tell me if the link works or not for you

Regarding advice, look at tank pictures of people responding to your questions to see if they have a tank you would like to replicate or at least have something similar in mind. You're going to get dozens of different answers to your questions. I suggest you rely on the people that have the...

Once the Maroon matures and turns female in a 20 no other fish are safe. Female Maroons typically claim an area of four square feet. In a 29 that is the entire tank.

They are the same species, just different colors. What species of Clownfish do you have? BTA host most types of Clownfish so you're good there. You do not need an Anemone to bond or breed Clownfish. They do require some special care so research before you buy (which is what you're doing here...

Now there's an old thread dredged up from the abyss.

Do you mean you moved them once they hit the 2 - 4 inch mark? I've seen a lot of 4 foot systems with odd acting Tangs, especially Hippos and Powder Blues. They "pace" across the glass and are overly aggressive. Not always, but I've seen it happen a lot. They never seem to recover to become...

I just wanted you to know I didn't mean to direct anything at you. I'm just disappointed that hobbyists are still advising those new to the hobby to use live fish as an ammonia source to start a cycle.

It's a Milk Snake. It played dead until the cat got bored with it.

In my opinion you will have better success making your own frozen fish food. The issue isn't that flaked food isn't nutritious, it's how much nutrition is delivered to the fish vs how much is simply dissolved into the water to pollute the tank.

There are hardier fish that can survive a cycle. Chromis are just not one of them. To say they survive "no problem" is stretching the truth a bit. I can believe "survived" especially for a Domino or similar Damsel but a high ammonia level will do permanent damage.

I can assure you with 99% certainty that the two Chromis will not survive. It's your choice of course but I really don't understand why you would put fish, in your care, under that type of suffering when all you need is fish food. No offense taken nor intended, I really just don't understand.

Nitrate isn't what you should follow. The presence of Nitrate does mean that the cycle has started but to keep the cycle going all you need is an ammonia source. A piece of uncured live rock followed by ghost feeding will accomplish that just fine. It will take 4 - 8 weeks using the live rock...

Just cycle with uncured live rock and you're all set. Fish food works equally well.