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I'm not sure how well a single Lyretail will do. They are normally in small groups. If you buy female Lyretails you will soon have a male when the dominant female changes gender.

I knew that... I'm allowed to tease you once in a while aren't I? :p

I've never purposely attempted to breed Gobies. From what I understand the most successful way is to introduce 5 or so Gobies, wait for a pair, and then remove the others. I also believe there are people that do this constantly to sell paired gobies. If it were me I would attempt to purchase...

Why do you want some of the spam to come back? There was an incredible amount of effort expended to get rid of it.

I would suggest two Clownfish (same species) instead of the Firefish. Or, wait until the Firefish kills itself and then replace it with a Clownfish.

Copper will kill all invertebrates. What size tank?

I need a clearer picture. My first thought was Cyproidea Amphipods.

In short - Hydrometers measure water density (Specific gravity eg. 1.025) which varies quite a bit with temperature. They do NOT measure salinity. Refractometers measure Salinity (PPT eg. 35ppt) which does not vary significantly with temperature. They do NOT measure density.

You are right that a hydrometer calibrated for 60F will read a slightly lower specific gravity (density). The ppt reading on a hydrometer will not be accurate and is a useless scale. In order to determine the ppt (salinity) with a hydrometer you need three things, the S.G. reading, the water...

If the mud is packaged then it can go in anytime, before, during, or after the cycle. If it's freshly harvested (from a saltwater source) then I would suggest waiting until the tank cycles. Since you already have it in hand it should go right in.

Mud should be placed in a refugium separate from the main tank. This is so that when you discover that it is detrimental you can simply unplug it from your system. As you can tell, I'm not a fan. Perhaps someone here that has had success will chime in. I would defer to their experience.

I believe it is common to Zebrasoma sp. Even if you don't feed sheets it can actually get a lot of algae scraping diatoms.

Only the ones that hang out in the substrate. O2 levels are lower there and ammonia makes it more difficult for gills to exchange Oxygen. A long term side effect of ammonia poisoning is brain and/or organ damage from oxygen deprivation.

Have you been able to test for a voltage leak? Voltage itself doesn't cause HLLE... I'm not sure it the cause is actually known, I have my own theories... Stress is a constant among fish that develop HLLE. Insufficient swimming space causes stress, Trace element deficiencies can increase...

Blue Tangs are zoo-planktivores that sometimes consume algae. Sailfins are herbivores that sometimes eat zoo-plankton. I do not know if that is the real answer. A 4 foot tank is about 4 feet shorter than what a Sailfin needs but the tank size wouldn't kill the Tang in a month. It could...

Is there a chance you have a voltage leak? Any sign of HLLE? Have you added any other fish recently?

Sure, you don't have an ammonia crisis now as evidenced by the activity level of your fish.

Starving your fish is exactly the right thing to do when you're having an ammonia crisis.

420 is just fine. The ALK is fine as well. That's not the issue I don't think. OTOH, they may have been stressed and overly inflated before and now they are stress free and looking normal... That's also possible. Do they send out feeding tentacles at night?

Just a thought, if your corals are growing larger they may have hit a threshold where you need to begin some dosing between water changes. Your ALK seems OK but on the low end. How is the Calcium level?