Search results

#1 - that really doesn't make sense. The flow rate through the overflows is determined by the return pump. If the pump is sending 100gph to the tank the overflows will send 100gph to the sump, if the pump sends 500gph to the tank then the overflows will send 500gph to the sump. #2 - HOB would...

I don't understand this statement. #1 - I don't get it. #2 - Have you considered a skimmer that doesn't have to be in the sump? #3 - Please describe why it can't deal with a power outage.

What species of Clownfish?

Long term is the issue. You can keep almost anything together for a week or two until they sell. There's a big difference between keeping 50 juvenile Ocellaris in a tank vs a mature female Tomato with a mature female Maroon. Sure, it's possible, just not likely.

What kind of algae? Chaeto is going to do better with more flow but most type of Caulerpa will be fine with 8X.

I'm not sure why you would want it heated until just before you use it.

Either my old 155 bowfront or a 200DD.

Green Star Polyps do not need active feeding. They will receive all nutrients by either directly absorbing micronutrients from the water column or from hosting zooxanthellae. They do like a lot of waterflow though. The Button Polyps will eat zooplankton. They will not eat phytoplankton...

I have a freshwater tank now. Strongly considering going back to saltwater.

The question I was asked was what is a good flow to propagate Harpacticoid Copepods in a 6 gallon refugium. That is the question I answered.

All I can say is I hope you beat the 1 chance in 200 where it works out. I'm surprised you still did it after everyone who has ever kept Clownfish said it's not going to work.

Is the sump pump the only waterflow for the entire system? If so then that inadequate for the display tank. I would add 200 - 400gph in the display tank. A closed loop or a powerhead will do it.

What would happen if you had tiles and a carpet backing between the aquarium stand and the wood floor? I'd think the tiles would look attractive and the carpet backing could prevent water from seeping from the tile to the wood.

My information might be out of date but I had thought Starphire glass was low iron, not lead free.

Do you chart your Alkalinity levels? Do you know if the Anemone was captive propagated or wild caught? It's probably just one of those things and there's no real answer. It would be nice to find something though so you can prevent a repeat with the next Anemone. Since the Carpet is still...

They can handle salinity fluctuations easily so that's not it. Temperature fluctuations can stress them though. Alkalinity stability is important as is PH. I don't remember your lighting but I assume it's adequate. Is it possible the foot was damaged before you got it?

Dang :mad: Sorry for your loss...

Did the math - 35.00ppt would drop to 33.97ppt

:cool: