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I agree except for the salinity estimate. Your salinity would probably drop from 35ppt to 35ppt. Seriously, there would be no effect.

To determine how effective Beaslbob's methods are all we need is a picture of his beautiful tank.

As they die their mouth gets slack (gaping) and they begin to dissolve fairly fast.

My thought on the possible population explosion. These worms are generally limited by food and predators. You have no predators at the moment, or not many, so they are food limited in your tank. Let's say the population suddenly triples. This means that the food source has tripled, right...

Featherdusters are just another type of Bristleworm so...

A Horse Conch will eat them but they'll eat all of your snails too. Coral safe though. Have you considered getting another animal that will compete for food with the Bristle worms and reduce their population that way? Cerith Snails for example.

The Thread subject says 75 but earlier he said he had a 110 so I'm thinking multiple tanks.

They will probably do fine with just scraps. You can tell over time as they are one of the animals that actually start to shrink in size if they don't get enough food. I didn't want to mention it before because I didn't want you to further stress your Anemone. If you feel like they are in...

To be honest, I believe the Ocellaris will not live a full life.

This could explain why the Ocellaris is still alive. If it were me I would never consider two pair of Clownfish in anything less than a 6' tank. With Maroons or Tomato Clownfish in the picture I would increase that to 8'. The fact that your Ocellaris is alive means that you have an above...

What part of the tank does the female Maroon hang out at?

The ball valve is fine but only on the output side of the pump. Never restrict the input to a water pump.

get a large bucket mark it at a certain number of gallons (ie mark a 5 gallon bucket at 4 gallons). Direct your overflow to the bucket and time how long it takes to get the water level to your mark. Do the math.

Oh, ok, that's good. You shouldn't need such a big pump, as you already know. The 1/2" plumbing should be fine. There would be no problem with going bigger. What I was saying is that if you increase the size of the overflow plumbing that's not going to increase the flow rate. The flow rate...

That's an issue for integrated Sumps. With a separate refugium you can simply split the overflow and control the flow to the refugium independently. The size of the plumbing will only limit the maximum flow, it doesn't control the minimum flow. The flow ratefor an integrated sump is 100%...

yep.

My calculations are based on the actual water volume in the container. So if you have 6 - 7 gallons in the refugium a good water flow through the refugium would be 48 - 56 gph.

Based on my experiments 8X was the sweet spot for the Benthic Copepods living there.

8X directly from the display with flow only across the refugium surface gave me the best results for Harpacticoid Copepods. If you have a free-swimming or non-benthic variety you will want a lower flow rate. You might want some other animal in there to help clean up detritus like Hair Worms or...

I've done extensive (non-scientific) testing on refugiums, I can look at my notes on best results but I first need to know what you are protecting in your refugium.