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Had my 110 gallon tank up for 19 years without doing anything other than using a turkey baster to blow off the rocks, and siphoning some detritus off of the bottom during water changes. The only reason I took the tank down was to replace it with a 220 gallon tank, converting the 110 into the...

Two words: "emerald crab". These interesting little creatures love bubble algae, and will eat it happily. that said, an algae scrubber will help with bubble algae, and with many other problems in marine aquaria. IMHO highly rrecommended.

IMHO algae scrubbing, whether via chaeto or a dedicated algae scrubber, is the best way to control not only phosphates and nitrates, but all kinds of contaminants in the water.

Don't get frustrated if your tests for nitrate or phosphate read zero - if algae are growing then those nutrients are there, it is just that the algae itself are using the nutrients, so you don't measure any in the water. As others have said, do regular water changes, you can add a chemipure to...

I am a big fan of using macro algae to remove nitrates. They are very efficient in removing nitrate and other toxins from the water, and their presence allows you to use bioballs, which are very efficient in removing ammonia and nitrite. Its a win-win.

It is just below skin temperature, so it will feel neutral to slightly cool.

If you will be adding live rock then, as jay0705 said, plain old dry argonite is fine, and less expensive.

I am a great believer in the theory that constant conditions are more important than the actual value of a water parameter. So you don't really have to worry about what the pH is, just whether it is fluctuating too much. If Nitrogen waste levels are low and there is good circulation then the pH...

There is "live rock", then there is "live rock"! What is the difference, you ask. Good question. If you just put dry rock into a tank it will eventually host the bacteria necessary to process nitrogen waste, but little else. Good live rock obtained from a good source will already contain...

It doesn't really matter. If you added too many bacteria some will die or go inactive until there is sufficient nutrient present to feed them. Bacterial loads have a wonderful ability to grow just enough to do the job.

Take a look here for bulkhead flow rates.

For an interesting and unusual blue fish take a look at the purple tilefish.

Having spent many hours trying to capture fish in a corner overflow, I can't even imagine having a center overflow layout. Just sayin...

"not picky" translates as "will eat anything not nailed down, then will eat the nails."

You don't need to add more rock to make a habitat for the eel. You can just bury a length of 1 or 1 1/2 inch pvc with one end sticking up out of the sand, and the eel will be very happy to move in.

As long as the tank is fish only I would just turn on the lights when I was home so I could enjoy looking at my tank. the fish don't care, and when you begin to stock corals you can worry about light timing.

I put a 220 in my living room, but put steel support posts in the basement, too. The beams in your house "should" hold the tank, but it becomes a matter of weight distribution. All too often all of the weight of the tank is communicated to the floor through 4 legs, putting a great strain on...

That lion would attack the black plastic end of the algae scrubber, too. The only reason he didn't eat it was that my niger trigger was busy also attacking it in defense of his territory.

Yeah, blended, then poured into ice cube trays and frozen. This was 40+ years ago, before much in the way of frozen foods were commercially available.

Yeah, once they become c\accustomed to a primate putting food into their world they will eat pretty much anything we throw in. I have had triggers and lionfish eagerly consume nori with nary a complaint.