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In anticipation of going to a larger tank I would not add anything to the 38 gallon tank. You have 2 aggressive fish already, and they have probably already staked out their territories, so any newcomer will encounter a battle. Besides, anything you add to the 38 will have to be captured in...

Do not rely on check valves to prevent flooding - what they really do is guarantee flooding eventually when they stick. Instead, be sure you have siphon breaks shallowly placed so that the volume of back flow can be accommodated by the sump/wet-dry.

Good advice so far. the only comment I would have is that it would be a mistake to add a small hippo tang. Hippos in the 1 inch range have a terrible survival rate in the hobby. get one in the 2-4 inch range at a minimum and it should do fine if you give it greens to eat.

How long have you had the fish. My experience with lions is that they eventually snap at anything you put in the water, it just takes time.

So, no live rock? If that is so, then I would have left the dead wrasses in the tank - as they decayed they would have fed the cycle. As you currently describe the situation in your tank, it will never be ready for fish, ever. You must cycle the tank using any of the methods described by others...

Algae will eventually go away provided you do the right things to reduce its growth. The big culprit is nutrient in the water - primarily nitrogenous compounds and phosphate. Measuring phosphate will not help you because it will measure zero since the algae are using all of it. You can deal with...

I agree about the bending over (I've reached that age when bending is tough, straightening up impossible:(). That's why I am removing the sump from under my 220 and relocating it in the basement and re-configuring a 110 tank into the sump so that I can access it without calling the fire...

I agree that hyposalinity is your best approach. In addition to monitoring salinity daily, also monitor pH since there is a tendency for this value to become unstable at low salinities.

robertmathern1's solution works well unless later the position of the siphon break changes, which will change the volume of water that can siphon into the sump. Leave some margin of error to account for such changes, IMHO.

I agree - if I had to call it anything I would call it a "white&orange with some black markings percula". It is a nice looking fish, though.

the closest thing I can find to a B&W Perc has a white body with some black markings, but still has orange fins, tail and face. They list it as " Amphiprion percula".

I think it depends on what you call "significant". Chitin fibers are stabilized by calcium salts, so there is calcium present at higher concentration than sea water.

I have a friend who breeds a variety of Cephalopoda for research institutions, and he said just yesterday that in his opinion the only suitable tankmate for an octopus is a large, very heavy rock.

You should be ok for 2 hours. If it goes longer you might wrap the tank to reduce heat loss and stir the water periodically to distribute well-oxygenated water to the bottom.

I think pegasus has nailed it. That light should be fine for a nano tank, although it might have a little too much white light for my taste. If you start to get nuisance algae just get some herbivores, or use macroalgae, but your corals should do fine under that light.

Since ammonia should/must be zero, any positive reading on the card indicates a problem, so the card is fine.

That is correct. Social Security trust funds are used to purchase government bonds, as is also required in the OBRA.

No, in all of those cases the investors sued because the insurance companies lied about taking people's money and using it to prop up other interests. Insurance companies (and the social security system, too) basic function is to take peoples money and use it to prop up other members who have...

Apparently, it is OK since the entire insurance industry is based on such a "Ponzi" scheme, and they aren't being sued as such.

I like Robert Fenner's "Conscientious Aquariast".