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Let me say it before Flower does - these fish are devils incarnate. As they mature they will harass you fish, and attack your hand, even drawing blood, if you are so foolish as to put your hand into your tank.

DO NOT USE! It is mold resistant, which usually indicates that there is some form of toxin in the adhesive to prevent growth - it could be lethal to organisms in your tank as it leaches out. Also, the Loctite web site says:

Quote: Originally Posted by Kenman345 Awesome. If you want to donate or need help with any of that breakdown equipment or fish, let me know. I am happy to help you move items if needed. How large is your office tank? Thanks for the offer, but my son will help me. The system is a 40 gallon...

Quote: Originally Posted by Kenman345 Hmm...I guess I'll try contacting some of the local reefers I have found on the forums, maybe one of them will help. Where does one get a trap? EDIT: Hey GeriDoc.....you're local, any chance you can help me out? Give me a few days to look in my basement...

That will work for macroalgae, which actually benefit by the high current in a converted HOB. However, other organisms that you might normally want in a refugium, inverts, lf, etc, generally like lower water currents.

You can get a trap at most lfs. If you are on Long Island I could collect a few from my reef at work for you.

I do recall seeing some available somewhere on the internet, but I can't recall where. The easiest way to get some would be to contact a local fish club - any of the members would be glad to help you out, all you would need to do is supply the trap (cheap).

If you do go with the tall format, I would recommend flame hawkfish. Mine (I have a pair in my 220) constantly swim to the surface, then down to the bottom, so you would get lots of action from these personable little guys.. Maybe with jay0705's clowns you could make an interesting display.

Quote: Originally Posted by Kenman345 So what do they look like? What do they eat since they are a part of the clean up crew There are photos of bristle worms all over this site. Just use the search function. They are great scavengers that will eat left over food, dead organisms and fish poop...

There are several issues in your post. First, your nitrates are low because the red algae are using nitrates to grow, so there is no point in using up your reagents testing for them. After you get rid of the algae you can go back to testing. Second, Cyanobacteria (the correct term for red...

An emperor should do fine in the 220. I had mine in a 110 for 14 years before I upgraded to a 220. One of the best fish I ever had.

Do you have a picture? Mantis shrimp will eat anything edible, including your thumb. Yours doesn't sound very mantis-like.

The only concern is that when they die they do an outstanding job of polluting the tank. Otherwise, they are under the sand bed and out out sight.

I had a tall 90 gallon hexagonal tank that was custom made for me, and I didn't like it. The fish didn't swim up and down, the just stayed in one place since they couldn't swim horizontally. I don't think that fish are programmed to choose whether to swim a mile horizontally, and if not, to go...

My ammonia and nitrites are at 0 but I thought the bacteria needed would be different in fresh and saltwater? Have you been adding an ammonia source? If so, then the tank had gone through a "soft" cycle, meaning that bacteria that came in on your live rock/sand are sufficient to control...

A thorough water rinse should remove anything that would come ogg in saltwater. That said, I always wear rubber or latex gloves when I put my hands/arms into a tanks. This protects the fish, and me as well.

Quote: Originally Posted by mauler Im planning to start with 20-30lbs of live rock and build it up over time and can I mix live sand with some other sand That's fine, just be sure to cycle properly, and leave several weeks between fish addition since you will be a little light on lr...

No, not time for fish yet. You need to cycle the tank. Get an ammonia test kit and suspend a piece of raw supermarket shrimp in the tank until the ammonia levels rise. Then remove the shrimp and continue to measure ammonia and nitrites (get that kit too). When both levels fall to zero, then it...

And theres no kind of water conditioner that removes all that stuff and if I use RODI water do I even need water conditioner? No water conditioner can replace RODI. Those faucet water purifiers are only carbon filters that remone objectionable taste and smell, but don't purify to the level you need.

DI=deionized. The typical RODI system consists of a reverse osmosis cartridge, and additional cartridges for particulates and a deionizing cartridge that removes charges molecules like phosphates. A skimmer can be very important, especially in a reef system, not so much in a FOWLR tank like...