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Cryptocaryon irritans often first infect inside the gills due to the softer tissue in the area...often times this will throw a tank owner off due to not seeing the encapsulated cysts attached to the exterior portion of the fish. You mentioned you treated the tank with copper...depending on the...

Alot of people like the AquaC's

If you work for pentaire...why would you be asking us for that info? Besides...if you bought anything else...you would be a trator to your company... :)

I use Little Giant pumps...I pump my water from the basement up to the first floor where the tanks are. They are nice, durable, quiet, and do a great job. I am thinking of switching one of them with a Rainbow Seahorse pump though to centralize one of the setups with one pump instead of one for...

Dont know about the prices you mentioned... The MH bulb sounds more like a 10,000 Kelven, not watts. Couldnt even imagine the size of a 10,000watt bulb. The two PC's are probably (or should be) Actinic 03 bulbs. Combined, depending on the wattage of the MH and the depth of your tank...should be...

If you had gone to Duke...hehehehe

You should always clean your bio-balls...just rinse them out during a water change with the old water. With 80ppm..a 33% water change probably wont show you to drastic of a change...do a few of those about 1-2 days a part if you are looking to lower them in that manner.

Chromis are not generally as tough as other damsel fish...sounds like you did create a cycle of some degree by doing what you stated. Installing a RO/DI setup is not cutting into a waterline...it is attaching a saddle valve and penetrating the pipe with a small diameter screw/valve. When you do...

Bleach the coral in a solution of about 10-20% bleach...dont use any scented bleaches...soak it for about 24 hours or so. Rinse until you do not smell the bleach any longer. Sodium Hypochlorite dissipates pretty quickly and easily

What kind of star is it? What are your water chemistry levels? And as asked...how did you acclimate it?

Look up products titled as Reef Dips..and see if they will kill the bugs you have.

It is totally dependant upon what you are desiring to accomplish...if you are looking for the benefits of a deep sand bed...then generally 4 inches is the minimum depth...for looks...then about 2 inches.

When looking to lighting...the amount and quality of light penetrating the depth of your tank is what you guide by. I do not know the measurements for a 40gallon...but my 45 is 24 inches higher and I opted for the 250w MH.

Most will stear you away from airlines in the marine environment...they tend to create excessive salt creep with the bubbles bursting. As mentioned...powerheads or internal water pumps will do what you need. Some of the better ones are the mag drives, the Marineland line and myself, I have had...

Sounds like Cyanobacteria, thrives on excessive nutrients usually located in low circulation spots. You may just try increasing your water flow in the area as to where it is.

They are indeed a beautiful fish..and when I get a bigger tank...I will get one for it.

I dont know about the with gell part...but the frozen foods I feed I usually thaw in a small cup of clean RO water...stir it up and then pour it in slowly and little at a time....this is also where you can fortify it with vitamins as well. I believe the gell part was a creation to enable the...

Try not to think too hard... Stirring the sandbed after it has already been up is hardly the cause for the high nitrates to begin with...

A "normal" 75 has a base of 48x18 inches...I believe the 55 is like 48x13.

Doing water changes will only dilute the nitrates...nitrates are created as a process in the nitrogen cycle...they accumulate in most tanks due to the lack of water changes, and/or nothing to naturally remove them...be it macro algaes or the DSB. You need to address the issue of where the...