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I would suggest also that you continue with a few more 10-20% water changes spreading them out of a 3 or so days between them...also more attention to the water changes would probably be in order here as well....imagine your house being offered only filtered air...no fresh air for about 6...

Nolson...the M series number is an ANSI designation for that particular size ballast and what it is for...the M is MH, an H is MV. You will need to enclose the lighting in some sort of fixture, canopy or light hood, something to protect you from the bulb and the bulb from you and the water.

UNless the ballast specifically states it is for two bulbs, it is for only one bulb...You would probably want to get some sort of reflector, and the bulb socket (make sure it is the correct one)...You can look at one of their DIY kits and see what all you need. For mine I got, ballast, bulb...

Do you have an overflow or a protein skimmer?

go to hellolights.com and get one of their DIY setups...with an M58/H37 ballast for $51.00 you can run any 250 MH or MV. They have other wattage and types of ballast as well. The main difference between the MH and flourescent (normal, HO, VHO and compact), the MH is a single point element which...

I have a single fiji blue devil in my fuge...i feed him when i think about it...which isnt too often about once every 2-3 days...he seems to be doing fine as he has been in this situation for about 5-6 months now.

If you havent done a water change in awhile...the sudden nitrate problem probably isnt from the tap. You should use RO/DI water. Bio-balls are fine...they dont produce nitrate...the aid in bacterial growth which consumes the amonia and nitrite...nothing more...nothing less...dirty bio-balls are...

You should wait until the tank cycles...it has been said on here before..the only sure thing to happen quickly in a marine tank is disaster...patience stinks...but it is a requirement for a semi-stress free and healthy marine tank.

Overdriving?? You mean running more current through a given bulb? If that is the case...and you are talking HID bulbs..probably not too safe of a thing to consider due to the extremely high heat already factored into a given HID bulb.

Letting the tank runs its course is probably good advice for you. Good luck.

My serpent star usually sticks a leg out between rocks...i will try and get a piece of squid, clam or whatever to a close proximity of the leg..he will usually grab it and chow it out. Bacterial blooms can be caused by any number of things. Most often it is a newer tank, semi-established bio...

Catch and release into the skillet...fillet Sunfish and Crappie is some of the best eating... Walleye, Northern, Muskies (Tiger's as well) and Bass are all excellent fishing and eating as well.

If your water had a very high Nitrite content...that probably killed your fish, or at least stressed them to the point of death...they the sudden influx of "clean" water probably finished them off..as a 50% water change will usually damage your bio-filtration in varying degrees.

White milky water is usually an indicater of a bacterial bloom. What was causing it, who knows. Once the source ceased, the bacteria will die off and the cycle could continue if the source wasnt removed.

The LFS is most likely off their rocker... Every tank goes through a cycle..the degree of the cycle will vary....

Ensure you check the heat output of a 175 versus a 250 watt bulb...dont know if the difference would be that great, but could adversly affect your water temp...in any case the 175 would be fine.

The milky cloudiness is a bacterial bloom and will subside over a little time...once it starts rescinding...it goes quick.

An effective alternative to the RO is a pure DI unit either DIY or like the Kent DI unit. Wont produce any waste water either...have to stay on top of the charcoal canister in front of the resins though...possibly even add a second one.

Granted the LR and skimmer are two important parts of running a natural system. For most of the average hobbyist...the two are insufficient to provide adequate filtration for the typical system. Most hobbyist are borderline over populated and produce excessive waste matter for a natural system...

Inverts harbouring the cryptocaryon irritans is a questionable issue...some believe (as I do) they can, and some believe they cannot...I think though..I would let the tank set longer then 6 weeks...