Search results

how deep is the tank? If it is 24 or less inches...the 250 should be fine.

Prior to attemtping to treat your algae with snails...locate the source of the nutrients for the algae...then augment your efforts with the snails.

no he wouldnt be ok...you have a large bio load in there already and the fish you have would probably out compete and stress the seahorse out...Seahorses are better suited in a species only tank. They require great care with continuous attention to feeding and such.

If you are going to dose calcium you need an alk test as well as a calcium test... If you are going to maintain a marine aquarium...you need to read, read and read some more...you need to research every speciment you plan on getting as for feeding, what it does, what it doesnt do and so on...

Yes, to store just RO/DI water you dont really need anything in it as far as circulation, heat or air..i keep 64 gallons of fresh ro/di water on hand at all times and have never had a problem with it.

you can take the rock out and scrub it in saltwater with a nylon brush...make sure you rinse it well in another container of saltwater... or you can just harvest it...sometimes we over react with anything green in the tank that isnt an invert of fish...but it is a personal decision on what you want.

The bound copper will slowly release into the water column over time. As for the higher amonia...it will stress the fish...it is something to keep an eye on. You could also use a commercially available detox like amo-lock or something to aid in keeping it less lethal. Water changes will work...

What are the light green strands right above the layering ones?

The layering one is probably coraline as well...there are many different varieties of coraline algae.

Also, if you are just going with fish...just do the normal flourescents...your fish do not require any certain amount of light, the bulbs are cheaper, and far more variety.

If you were willing to go 130.00 on those used lights...go to hellolights,com...you can get DIY kits and parts for about that price.

Unless you put the rock in saltwater...the bacteria growth within its pores will die...if you place the rock in freshwater...they will die rather quickly... You should never treat your main tank with copper...copper binds with most items in the tank, including the glass... The high amonia was...

You dont use mixed saltwater for top offs...just water...as for keeping your pre-mix saltwater sealed...I wouldnt think that to be too good of a way to keep it...circulation and air will help the water obtain a proper gas exchange and continuing it keeps it in proper balances.

Good that your EX is performing now...that seems right with the pump being closer...The pump loses pressure with the increased distance. As for the bubbles back into the display..I do not know...I have 2 of the 36" EX's..but they are both in sumps...I do not see how they could be put where there...

You are correct with the overflow...it skims water from the surface. Also, do a search online for fish supply places and look for the Eheim overflow...online retailers are more apt to have things which a local LFS doesnt just due to the volume and variety of sales they do. When I set my first 90...

Racoon... There is no hard-set rules for water changes...mostly personal preference...many will say that a smaller, more often change is better then a larger, less often...I prefer to do 15-20% about 2-3 weeks myself.

Which EX did you get and what pump are you using for it?

It doesnt look like hair algae to me either...possible to get a closer pic?

Hair algae is not the sign of a healthy tank...hair algae is a nusiance algae which needs certain elements to thrive...most of which we strive to keep out of our marine tanks...of these...Nitrates, Phosphates and poor lighting are usually the cause... Remove the nutrients and the hair algae will...

Doesnt Eheim have a surface skimmer for their canisters? I believe they do..if you cant find one, the powerhead suggestion towards the surface is the next thing to do as mentioned.