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those dont need to be removed. I on the other hand have the kind that do

thats definately RTN and there's not much that could have been done other than fragging the uneffected areas before they were affected and hope they stay unaffected (I've got a peice now that 95% RTN'd but I was able to save a 1" frag I've had for 6 months with no ill effects). thats the...

calcium and alk weekly magnesium monthly salinity monthly phosphates monthly everything else never once cycled

what your talking about are harmless. those are hydroid jellyfish. they come and go from time to time especially early on (the first year) these are the hydroids that can sting I was referring to

I dont know what they are specifically (and there are several types) but the ones I have stay small. the problem is they can proliferate to plague numbers and sting corals. I have had little luck irradicating them but the usual aiptasia treatments (boiling vinegar, kalk paste ect) put them down...

which maxi-jet? the small propeller doesn't match up well with the maxi-jet 1200 and vise versa. I tried it on the 1200 but ended up using it on a maxi-jet 400 which was much quieter. Likewise the small propeller was noisy on the maxi-jet 1200 but the large propeller on the maxi-jet 1200 worked...

google search reveals: 1. only 100-150 US cases per year 2. only 0.27 per 100,000 adults infected 3. does not spread well or thrive at temps above 90deg (read does not affect most humans even with exposure and usually limited mostly to external areas as the human body is regulated at 98.6ish...

well yes and no. they are supplemental since you have metal halides so the difference cant really be considered a big deal as far as coral health BUT all three spectrums look way different. true 420nm (I say true because many pc bulbs like coralife pc actinics are nowhere near true 420nm bulbs)...

is this your first time looking at night? many sps show better extension at night. my torquois stag has long streamer polyp extension at night but you'd never know if you didn't look at night.

between those choices 250wx2 WITHOUT QUESTION if you are planning on mostly sps. After having 175w x2 on a 20" tall tank and now 150wx2 on a 16" tall 3ft 30g both with sps I wouldn't recommend 150w for anything but nano cubes unless you are going to use lumenmax 3, cayman sun or other high...

Originally Posted by Shrimpy Brains What!? Your tank broke!! How'd that happen??? How horrible. Were you able to save your fish, or were you away from home when it happened? Your gonna give me nightmares. I was home, I accidently dropped the canopy door (heavy home made) and the...

well I had VERY successfully before my last tank broke. 1 male and 3 female lyretail. never lost one. I fed mysis, san fransico brand reef plankton, ect. they ate anything meaty. even flakes eventually. I fed them small portions 2-3 times a day. tank size was 6ft 100g prehistoric video in the...

Originally Posted by Flower Stanlalee, in picture #2…there is a big long worm….submit your picture to Cranberry for an ID, it looks like a coral eater to me. I am no expert, but just to be sure…she is. hitch hiker brittle star. been in the tank for a year and has trippled its size. not a...

yes deresa's are not rock dwellers like croceas and maximas. sand is fine and yes they grow. deresa's have a max size of 20" though you never see them that big. matter of fact the reason i have a crocea is because its the only one that stays relatively small (6"). though I did have a 3" deresa...

never spot fed mine a thing. when I first got it (first cora in this tankl) 1.5yrs ago. Now (how I hope it stays. dont want it much if any bigger)

I havent had supplementals since I started using MH. First 175w now 150. Definately more a desire than requirement. I desire them but it just aint going to happen. I'd have to change too much.

if no corals are in it simply leave the light off. If the temp doesn't drop within 24hrs its not the light. As stated especially without a heater there should be a noticeable drop and rise with the light cycle. perhaps the fans are defective if its not the pumps/powerheads.

if water is coming out its working and just as effective but it may clump and salitify hendering flow and contact if not moving. only way to know is to give the reactor a shake.

yes a mild boil of the top layer. the only purpose is to keep it from solidifying. too much flow will cause it to grind. I guess "tumble" was interpreted as something more. it shouldn't just lay there though, you should get some top layer movement.

phospure like all DFS brands are just a rebadged name brand. Its simular to mangrove phoslock but most of the wet GFOs (phospure, phoslock, rowaphos) are simular just as most of the dry GFOs (TLF phosban, warner marine phosar, bulk reef supply) are simular to each other (warner marine and bulk...