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Whew, I need to learn to read . Totally misread your original question...Weld On #4 or #16 for your application...

Yes, 7.59 is very high for a Ca reactor, and most likely you are not dissolving any Ca at all. Of course the only way to find out is to test your effluent from the reactor for Alkalinity. It should be at least 25 dKH coming out of the reactor.

The pH in the reactor depends on the type of media you are using. Typically though the pH in the reactor is between 6-6.5. Some media brands, such as A.R.M., the pH doesn't have to be as low to dissolve the media, say 6.8. To lower your effluent pH from your reactor, you can do two things...

Octopus Extreme 200. Best skimmer for the money hands down IMO...

Silicone will work as long as you use enough. For my fuge I used acrylic baffles in a glass tank with silicone. It's now 5 years old and none of my 3 baffles have budged one bit. If you are not comfortable with doing it this way, use Weld-On 1001. It will bond acrylic to glass very strongly...

Silicone will work as long as you use enough. For my fuge I used acrylic baffles in a glass tank with silicone. It's now 5 years old and none of my 3 baffles have budged one bit. If you are not comfortable with doing it this way, use Weld-On 1001. It will bond acrylic to glass very strongly...

I've not read good reviews for this reactor. Everything I've read is that it is very cheaply made, and leaks easily. If you want a Ca reactor for a good price, I'd check out the selling/trading forum on the other site.

Originally Posted by wattsupdoc Just remember, that increasing Co2 increases PH, increasing flow through decreases it. I think you mean this backwards, right? Increasing CO2 lowers pH(with the same amount of flow), while increasing flow with the same amount of CO2 raises pH.

You test your effluent for Alk to determine when to change your media. I believe saturated saltwater will hold 32 ALK dKH. So if you test effluent and your dKH is in the teens or low 20's it's time to change your media. I typically change mine about every 5 months.

Blue78vette-I'm not necessarily saying one is better than the other as they each have advantages, it's just a personal preference and for the most part really depends if you want growth or color in your coral. Spanko-pm sent

Yes, the higher K the bluer the bulb, and typically the less PAR(photosynthetically active radiation). The more PAR a bulb has, the quicker corals grow all other factors held even. It is much easier to get corals to color up with higher K bulbs though. So, for the most part, it's a trade off...

Google: DIY reef and check out the MH retro kits. You can buy an IceCap retro(400w IceCap ballast-one of the best brands you can buy, mogul socket with cord, and spider reflector) for just $200. Then throw in a 400w (10K or 20K) XM bulb for $63, and you spent only $263 and will have a top...

Depends on the brand name of the bulb and ballast. If they are cheap knock off's-then no that's not a deal.

Sounds to me as if you have a 20k bulb. If you replace the bulb with a 10k, say XM you will see how bright MH's are.

First how deep if you tank, and what type of corals do you plan on keeping? I think you should go with at least 3 250's, but if you just plan on softies and most LPS(as long as the LPS are high in the tank) 175's should get the job done. I wouldn't worry about heat with a 240g tank one bit...

I couldn't agree more with natclanwy, as long as you goop it on with a large bead on both sides it will work. I have a 20g glass fuge with acrylic baffles, that's 5 years old now, and the baffles have not budged one bit. You can't even see the seems now, because my fuge is covered in...

Not true at all. There are many 1000w MH's available in the correct spectrum. To me though, the only reason to use something that large would be on a tank very deep, say 35+ inches. The problem is you will not get good enough spread on a 120 with just one bulb though. Google: Specialty lights

For an Octopus NW-200 you have to use 2" for it to fit over top the original standpipe. If you went any smaller it would not fit.

And the vented return. It was made entirely of 2" PVC. THe Y at the top is what vents the return so there is constant back pressure, instead of uneven back pressure associated with a stock return. It functions the exact same way though. You raise it or lower it just like a normal riser to...

Here are some more pics of the venturi. The 1/4' male to male plastic water fitting is shown in all pics. You can see in the first pic the 1/4' male to male fitting is cut at an angle, with the short side facing the needlewheel, and the long side facing the skimmer inlet.