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This is a reef forum isn't it? With that in mind I have just 2 comments. 1) You can't have Caulerpa 2) We have Southdown Nuff said!

If I understand your post,You are adding a Part A and B System? I'm assuming that you get the "snowflakes" when you add Part A?If that is the case ,your water is probably way to hard.Have you checked Dkh?

What's the PH of your top off water? What chemicals do you use now?

Killafins, I think you've been watching to many horror movies. LOL

You mean there is no such thing as the immacu-reef conception?

If your tank was well established prior to the changeover,and you used all the same water,you might have gone through a mini-cycle and missed it. Check the nitrates for sure. OOps,I just saw that you used only 5 gal. of old water. You probably have NOT cycled yet. But still check "trates.

LOL Bang Guy, I wouldn't even know if you just made that up.

If salinity is 1.023,I assume your high PH is not coming from the salt mix. Check the PH of the water you used to fill the tank in the first place. If it is not 8.8,you probably need a new test kit. Normally holding your finger over the vail would produce a lower PH(from acidity).

Don't forget the obvious--Regular (green ) algae won't grow over coralline.

One of my advertising people recommended the Minolta Dimage S414. It's a 4.0 that goes for about $300. Anyone have any experience with this model?

Sorry if this seems like an unusual question,but nothing surprises me . Are you painting the outside of the glass? There will certainly be salt at some point that gets on the glass. With the variety of removeable backgrounds that are available today,why paint?

If the tank is 5 days old you probably don't have any "gunk" yet. Most skimmers,you want the water to go right to the base of the collection cup.

That's a 55?? That's 60 lbs. LR? What am I missing?

Feather duster probably O.K.. Scallop probably not. Of course,even that depends on your water conditions. What are they?

Magyk,Welcome to the board. You want to have somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 watts of light in a 75 to support a reef (for hard corals and clams you need even more). Live rock should be about 125 lbs. . I would also rethink the use of a UV in a reef as it's job is to destroy bacteria(even...

Test the water for everything. If it's O.K.,it's O.K.,right?

RO/DI will have no phosphates,and for sure,no copper. Copper is a major no-no!!

Mixed reviews here. Some say that if you do frequent water changes you never have to add iodine. Others say that if you have a large population of shrimp or other iodine consuming animals,you should add 1 drop per 50 gallons per week. Somewhere in the middle is where I stand.

Emeralds will indeed eat coraline,but in a good system it's hard for them to keep up with the growth they cause by spreading spores(like Clarkiiboi said). Of course,it depends on how many,but 2-3 in a 55 should be fine.

I guess the big question is--What are you calling too hot?? I never did see a temperature mentioned.