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Originally Posted by mrtgman me 2 please mrtgman@yahoo.com Mail call.

you've got mail

The ASM comes with the Sedra 5000, I believe that is why they rate it higher. My Eureo-reef also has a 5000, but I cant find specs on it anywhere with that pump.

Not to hijack the thread, but is the spa flex or PVC better to use? Obviously the PVC takes more time (cutting and glueing), is the PVC worth all that work compared to spa flex?

just sent you the web site link.

One other thing, My CS6-2+ has the Sedra 5000 pump (not the standard 2500), This is why I'm wondering if it would be the same rating as the G3 with that pump.

Euroreef lists the recommended tank size for this skimmer to be 125G, While ASM G3 (Virtually the same skimmer) is rated for up to 225G. I already own the Euroreef CS6-2+ from my 90Gal, will it be able to handle the 180Gal?

OK, I've read the 101 thread, and some others, and have a few plumbing questions. First: My tank is a 72x24x24 180g, overflows(2) are built in, pre-drilled 1" drain, 3/4 returns. How do I know what flow rating these holes/overflows are? Second: My Sump box is being made for me, I will put...

you may not need a chiller, if your house is kept cool, and you have good air circulation over/around your lighting and top of tank, it may stay at a good temp range. set-up the tank and lighting first, and see how the temp is before you put anything live in it. Do it right the first time, fewer...

If you can afford it, definately go with MH lighting, I had 2x250W on my 90Gal, and will have 3x250W on my 180Gal plus two 6' VHO actinics. You will want alot of light for nice colorful clams (who want's ugly brown ones?), and anenomes. The MH will give you the option of putting them anywhere in...

I kinda like my acrylic set-up better than my glass, for clarity, weight and durability. Most LFS that i've been to also use acrylic, mainly because the fish and coral look better in acrylic than in glass, it is just that much clearer. I believe the clarity is because the light diffusion of the...

with the drilling, and overflow set-ups, it came to barely over $1000, they were also having a holiday sale at the time.

No, they were fine with me making my own, he just went through some basic construction suggestions (2x4, - 2x6 studs, center supports, etc).

What do you recomend putting between the tank and stand? Tenecor said to just put it on the plywood.

I purchased my 180G acrylic tank online, the site offers free shipping on all acrylic tanks in the US.

nice wood detail, like the molding.

I built my stand, and polyurethaned all the wood (including the plywood the tank will sit on). Will the chemicals (solvents) in the polyurethane have any long-term effect on the bottom of the acrylic tank?

I have a TDS meter, I will check it and go from there. Thanks

First off, nitrates are more harmful to corals than to fish. In a reef tank, the combination of water flow (from power heads, and filter), and cleaning crew should remove the bulk of the larger waste, so if done right, you shouldn't need a screen/floss material. On a fish only tank, it will help...

Originally Posted by DSkidmore You really want to cause debate, don't you? :) MH will cause the least debate, one pendant for each opening between the braces, I'd guess that's 3 for you, 400 Watts apiece should satisfy any need. You could use VHO supplimentals for your actinic lights. On the...