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It has been times my top layer of coral has been out of the water for up to 20 minutes, but as stated above make sure they don't have a chance to dry out. If you are doing your water changes from a bucket to the tank use a pump or a power head with a tube to make it a little faster.

The tank I want to put this fish is mostly stony coral I know it will eat some soft coral, but what about LPS & SPS ?

Originally Posted by thelameball Ahhhh, look at the little idiot babbling along his pointless tip to the other lowlives here. Too bad your name is what you are. I'm not going to play your game KID

Originally Posted by baloo6969 Silly question... Airports require all liquids to be in one quartsized ziplock bag...obviously because of the thousands of liquid explosives or flamable materials out there...totaly understand, and agree with it. But, what if I were to stumble over a coral when...

I can't believe this went on as long as it did...In this misguided souls defense it's like trying to put out a fire using gas and all of us that feed into it should feel alittle dumber for letting he prove his point.

Originally Posted by jplace003 I have read that actually keeping it higher around 1.025 would keep parasites at bay. I could be wrong though. At 1.025 the parasites would thrive and more then likely will show up in your tangs first. So pet stores keep there tank on the low end.

Originally Posted by nissan577 i used this and it works like a charm!!!! velvet sea slug-reef safe Eats flatworms (Planaria), an eyesore to the marine aquarium that eventually becomes plague proportions. These flatworms will quickly cover all the live rock in the aquarium and spread rapidly...

Originally Posted by spanko ^ This. And some LFS owners feel that keeping lower Sg is a way of saving operating costs. Have never done a study on the real savings here but I have been told that by a LFS owner. Not only this reason but some I know of one that keeps it around 1.019 to keep...

I think I'll try the holes maybe on the back side of the elbow. You all had some good ideas so thanks for all the input...I didn't have to worry about this before because I always had room in my sump just in case, but by redoing my return line I lowered the the pvc in the tank and I added a turf...

Originally Posted by GeoJ I have read that coralline algae will compete for growing space with other nuisance algae. And supplementing calcium will also help lower phosphate by making calcium-phosphate. So sps tanks with high calcium high alk and low phosphate should not have much GHA. And I...

Originally Posted by Bang Guy Check valves often fail in reef tanks. It will slow the water down but a few Spirorbidae worms and it will never seal well enough to prevent flooding. What do you suggest my friend? The problem is if for some reason I loose power my return pump starts to back...

Originally Posted by ali19 Should be fine, Stainless will only rust when it is infected, like scratched with wire wool or another metal. Nothing in your tank could cause it to rust. Thanks.

I found a 3/4" cpvc check valve I need in case of a power outage and I'm not home, but it has a stainless steel spring in it. Can I trust that in a salt water tank?

Originally Posted by jackri More info will be posted later but if you own a reef and have green hair algae I want to know 1) how bad of a hair algae problem 2) What is your alkalinity at? (use the 5-12 dKH scale please or whatever it's at) 3) what test kit are you using? I'll be testing mine...

Originally Posted by Garick I only have 2 corals at the moment and they are in 125 gallons of water. The new Kenya tree and my Cabbage Leather. I am not certain of how the cabbage is doing though. It stands up just fine and has all sorts of frills. The kenya is still laying over though I did...

Originally Posted by dc2mlbsm I plan on having corals in my 20g whenever it finishes cycling and I was wondering what would I need to feed the corals? I plan on keeping soft corals, lps, and polyps. Marine Snow and Mysis Shrimp, Seachem Reef Plus to add vitamins and amino acids. Just keep in...

Originally Posted by Chrisnif The best thing to do is drill a small (like 1/8") hole just below the water line, and then another one like 1/4" below that. I actually have mine with a series of 4 holes and it loses siphon once the first is fully in the air, but I prefer safe to flooded (never...

Originally Posted by Scopus Tang I believe they make what is called a "check valve" for this exact purpose. Thanks I've seen check valves for like air line tubing just didn't know if they made one for 3/4" pipe.

I want to play 75gal. LPS' & SPS' 2x moded maxi-jet and 2x Koralia# 4's on wave maker 2x 400 watt MH with 20k bulbs 20gal sump 5gal turf scrubber.

Originally Posted by lovelive I have had my 55 up for almost a year. All I test for is amonia nitrates and nitrites. Is this all I should test for? After reading some threads I see that there is more things to test for. Ph,Phosphates, Nitrates,Nitrites. I don't know about anybody else, but I...