Search results

A UV sterilizer may lower populations of ich but will not usually cure an established infection. Many of the trophonts fall to the ground in a specific area near where the fish sleeps. When the fish goes to the same area to sleep again, the new generation attaches to the fish again so the...

Welcome to the Boards! Falling apart within the first several weeks is very common with acclimation stress. How did you acclimate? Starfish usually need very long acclimations. I usually try to do a six hour acclimation with starfish if possible. They also need good water quality in a mature...

There are lots of unproven treatments. Here's the ones that are most likely to get your fish into remission. 1) Improve water quality. HLLE is the one disease that seems to occur more commonly with high nitrAtes. You may have to do a water change or remove a fish. 2) Improve the diet - If...

You also do not have to purchase another one. Some of the older books suggest that bristleworms are harmful, but the truth is that most of these are quite beneficial. (Just don't touch one with bare hands).

Cleaner shrimp and fish will also not work. They will not be able to eradicate an ich outbreak. The wrasse would also likely starve before too long. These forms of biological control will limit certain ectoparasites. They rarely can treat the gills (where a good percentage of the infection...

Nice pictures. I think your fish is normal. It appears to be only a minor color variant. I would watch the fish as I would not expect the white line to grow much.

Any chance of getting a picture? That would help a lot. How are your water readings. Sometimes poor water quality will show up with whitish growths on the fins.

I would agree that these may only be scratches. Hippos love to squeeze in tight places in the live rock. He probably got stuck and removed some of his slime coat. You probably should just watch this. However, if you feel a need to treat, a product such as Stress-Coat may help heal this up more...

Fungal infections are actually rare in saltwater aquariums. (The salt prevents most species of fungus from growing.) However mold-like cottony growths are common with bacterial infections. It is usually best to avoid putting any medications into a display tank. Sometimes these infections can be...

Here's another one to try: http://nolink.org/cgi-bin/pBs.cgi I know people who have their computer access limited at work use this server to play Astrowars! :D

If the guy has been raising them, he knows that the females are more valuable than the males. The males also tend to be more aggressive. You may actually have three males. Don't expect too many babies if this is the case. :D

After your tank has been up and running for a year, you might push that recommendation (perhaps to a maximum of 1 inch of fish per every 2 gallons). However, remember that these recommendations are based on the usual adult length of your fish - not their current size.

:) I am not an expert in this area but I will take another stab at this. I imagine that this would take effect over months to years. I do have some experience on the board of directors of a local fitness center. Almost all electronic equipment (e.g. stereos) in the pool rooom is usually...

A uv sterilizer will not eliminate an ich infection. It will lower the population of free simming ich so your fish may be able to survive a low level infecton. Most of the free ich (not attached to fish) in your tank is in your substrate where a UV filter can have no effect. There are no...

It may be safe. However, it is unlikely to be effective. There are NO medications which are recommended to be used within a display tank. The only reliable treatments for saltwater ich are hyposalinity and copper (neither of which are safe for inverts or live rock).

Welcome to the Boards! With a freshly cycled tank, I would be suspicious about water quality issues. The cycle is finished when there are enough bacteria to break down nitrogenous wastes. However, there are many other wastes which may have formed from the rotting which triggered the cycle. A...

You are using a calibrated refractometer to measure your salinity, aren't you? I believe that ich can survive down to ~1.011 specific gravity. Any other method is not accurate at these low ranges. It is possible, that the small spots are tiny ulcers where the trophonts had been attached. If so...

It sounds like you are having a normal cycle. The film on the dead shrimp is just a bacterial slime (which will break down the shrimp and then generate ammonia which will then allow the beneficial bacteria to live. You added your live shrimp too soon. Your water chemistries will not be healthy...

YGM Otherwise you can try me at elfdoctors@hotmail.com I don't check that account very often as I tend to use it just for MSN messenger.

YGM. You may not have seen my first e-mail so I will send a second with elfdoctors-swf.com in the subject line.