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a TDS meter. I just got mine for $24.95 and it does TDS and temp. There is a guy on ---- there is a guy selling one for like $18.xx plus shipping, no temp reading if you want it. It is a good investment I feel. http://cgi.----.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...941599003&rd=1 Ok, so you pump is fine but is...

how big is your tank.I think the 201PH is only like 110 GPH. When the RO membrane gets depleted the TDS go up. I am not 100% positive but like 015 ppm for a membrane is bad. So if you are getting like 30 for example, time to replace. The life span is integral the water supply. If you have bad...

ok, it looks like you need some major water flow, cleanup crew, or are over feeding. Or maybe some bad lights. Maybe your Ro membrane is "gone".

buy a TDS meter. They are like $20 to $24 and worth it!

What do you mean by real ocean water?

the PC lights are about 6 months old so maybe time to change. I had them on 8-hours and so far the 4.5 hours per day is doing ok. But I think I am still going to get new bulbs, just to have.

just got done doing my tests and so far I love all my Sailfet's except for Ph. The Sailfet Ph test is "more general" , on the scale to read, then my old Red Sea one. Weird. But all the other Sailfet's test are more accurate I think...and cheaper in the long run.

I got my TDs meter in. My RO/DI water is zero!! :) My tap water for kicks is 039ppm..Pretty good. Just messing around with it. So water is out so it is either from food, lights or lack of flow.

cyano can be casued from many things. This was started since I have a cyrano issue. #1 I hope you are at least using Ro water. Ro/DI is better. https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...hreadid=140714

450 is not bad, yes on the high side but that is the max I would go. Yes, I would stop adding a "that stuff" and would not even bother with iodine. dKh is related to Alk. dKH should be from 7 to 11 and Alk should be 2.5 to 4. And as noted before me, they are all integral to eachother. Ph can...

what size tank do you have?

sounds like stress. I would add some zoecon to his food.

I agree with beth on this on. If it was 1 or 2 I was say some some internal bleeding but a bacterial might not be far off. I check this from time-to-time so here is the link: http://www.gbasonline.org/disease_chart.htm It is not the best, but I use it and this board....Beth knows her stuff...

Mine is about 2.5 gallons to every 1-gallon of good RO/DI water. I could careless about the waste.....

I will make the short and sweet. Wet/dry do not cause nitrates. Nirtates are caused because people do not clean there tanks. 99% of the time it is because people are lazy. I have used bio-balls for years and my nitrates are below 0.00. Read this. Thomas712 knows his stuff...

I found another for less but the Resolution is : 1 ppm

I found this one for $31 shipped to my door. Look like 2% is 0.02 Temp. Range: 0-80 degrees Celsius TDS Range: 0 ~ 9990ppm (mg/L) Accuracy: +/- 2% ATC: Built-in sensor for Automatic Temperature Compensation of 1 to 50 degrees Celsius (33 to 122 degrees Fahrenheit) Power source: 2 x 1.5V...

Mine is not that bad. The black is only like 3" up from the bottom. So I guess that is out. I will get a TDS today. If not that, it has to be my lights, lack of flow or overfeeding. I think feeding is out. So onlu lights left. This all started like 1.5 months ago. It was fine before that...

yes they do. Do you have a pix of a bad resin filter? I am going to buy a TDS today. I found some online for like $30

I am using, in order of stages (normal 4-stage): 1- 5 micron sediment (looks brand new) 2- 5 micron carbon (orange in color) 3- membrane (no clue) 4 -resin silicmax filter (top band is light in color when comapred to rest of filter) 1- flush kit that gets used weekly for 30 seconds I just...