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IDE RAID is really, REALLY cheap now. You can get a cheap one for around $50, and a new drive for around $100. IMHO, this is the safest, simplest, and by far the least worry of all of the options. If you have a failure, the second drive will take over. Then, when you have the time, replace...

Sounds like bubble algea. I would remove it as most people think of it as a "bad" algea... David p.s. If you pop it, it will release spores and grow many more if a preditor is not present in your tank.

Not sure how long you can go without your lights... but I would suggest you get a brush and start scrubbing your rock. That was the only way I was able to get it knocked back enough that my critters could do their work. IMO. David

Here is a pic I love. Wish I had a better camera! Mine eats anything and everything I put in the tank... although he definately prefers meaty things. David p.s. Hope the picture comes through, first time for putting one out there...

I agree with the above, plus a plenum with a deep sand bed. I have a 150 with the bio balls that had continual nitrate problems. I cleaned the whole thing out, added 400 lbs of sand with the plenum and havn't been able to detect the nitrates since. Just my 2 cents. David

If you are going to use a check valve, do not get the ones from the plumming section. They get dirty very quickly and cannot be cleaned. I know, because I had a very bad leak! I use both, the hole near the top of the line, and a swing valve. I have about 90% confidence that the valve will...

i would put a heater in there... My work turns off the AC/Heat at night and the temp changes about 10 degrees. A temp change like that, with that small of a tank, will definately add to the die-off in the tank. Also, I moved my 150 gal twice now. (300 lbs of live rock with 500 lbs of sand.)...

Not to muddy the water any, but you can cool the water in the tank by blowing air across it. It is the same thing as a "Swamp Cooler" and they work. Boomer, what you said is correct; the act of evaporation does take energy. That energy, in the water vapor, being removed from system is what...

Writting from experience, and a very wet floor... I would not use the closed kind of check valve, like you would find at Home Depot (all white with no way to see the valve). I would use the clear kind where you can see the valve. The one that I now use has a HUGE flap which closes with little...

I really like the needle and thread method. Just thread the needle with some thread, poke it through the base of the new frag... then tie it onto the rock. So far (5 out of 5) I havn't lost a frag yet. (when using this method) Just make sure you tie the thread tight around the rock. David

I got one when my tank was young and it didn't live that long. Now that the tank is established... (tons of pods everywhere) the new goby is nice and fat. If your tank is young, I would not waste your money. David

If you have a Kent RO/DI, I would get the kit. It should come with a device that when the presure in the system gets too high, (i.e. the float is shut off) that it will shut off incoming water. This will stop your "dirty" water from running when your clean water is stopped due to the float...

Gig'em! BQ Class of 94 here. I would definately swing by Houston. I like aquarium world but I also like the store on Jones Road (On the way to Aquarium World from CS) The prices are a little better but the staff good only about 60% of the time. I know this is not going to sound right, but...

Thanks for the opinions. After reading everything I can find and thinking over what everyone has said, I think I am going to get one... I'll let everyone know if it looks the same as the blue-line and if it produces the same kind of heat.... Thanks again David

(bump) Has anyone used an expensive MH ballasts and a cheap MH ballasts and compared them? Do they really produce less heat? Do their lights last longer? Do they produce less light? etc....

When I fragged my colt, I just used small pieces of rock or large shells. I also tried the glue thing, but found that needle & thread were easier to handle. I just poked the thread through the base of the new cutting, and tied it onto the rock. Best of luck David

I currently own 2 Blue Line 400W E-ballasts (electronic ballasts). (On my 50 gal.) I am wanting 3 ballasts for a 150 gal... I found this 400W ballast for only 42$, much better than the 260$ I paid before. http://www.1000bulbs.com/shopping/sh...t=Metal+Halide The Blue Line E-Ballast claim they...

I feed mine every once in a while. It won't hurt (Mine is over a year old)... and I think it makes it grow a little faster... David

I am in the process of designing a new tank. A friend of mine gave me his 55 that sprung a leak on him. What I am planning on doing is using the Front glass and sides but extending the tank back about a foot (Extra room for overflows) and down about 4 inches, such that my 5 inch DSB only...

I think your problem is not going to be supporting the tank with 4x4 posts... because I am reasonably sure that if its built correctly that a stand like this could support the tank. I believe that the issue is what is holding up your stand. With that much pressure going into 4, 16 sq. inches...