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I'll have to go through all my old pics and see if I can find them.. I'm sure I have them

Been awhile since I've been on this board, and looking through my old threads.. An update on this coral is that it is still doing great, and about 50% larger than it was in the original picture.. I'll have to post an updated picture soon. It got some recent damage from some other corals, but...

Why is that confusing? He has regular/non-live sand (to rinse). He could purchase live sand.. and not rinse it. he just wants to know how to rinse the non-live sand so he doesn't put bunches of stuff in his tank! More importantly, any ideas on what he might be able to do to minimize the risk of...

re-read that and see if it makes sense. If falty water is an issue he should not be setting up an aquarium in the first place. Perhaps you mis-read this thread, so far, it seems to make perfect sense to me, but perhaps i'm missing something. And... He discussed having RO/DI. Most people do...

Originally Posted by hot883 You don't rinse live sand...................... He wasn't considering rinsing live sand. He wanted to rinse non-live sand (with less than pure water) instead of buying live sand (since it didn't need rinsing) and wanted input on any ideas on how to rinse the regular...

Unless i was mistaken, you're saying that your water is high in tds, has some nitrates and phosphate, correct? I would imagine that if you can drain the sand fairly well prior to use, you would be left with less than a ppm of nitrate and anything else that you might be adding (unless this water...

In my personal opinion, with a 300g tank, the amount of water remaining (if you drain the sand well) should be minimal. As long as you aren't planning normal additions of this, i think you'll be ok. If a test after the tank is up and running shows high levels, then you could do a water change...

You believe that the use of float valves as part of a auto-top off is questionable? I don't necessarily agree, although on the surface it can be an easy conclusion to come to. The way i use mine, is to have an electronic controller regulate the amount of water in a vesel, with a sensor to cut...

I've never had problems with my float valve and calcium deposits (most float valves are designed to have only the float sitting in the water), as it does not really come in contact with the water enough to get any calcium deposits (occasionally salt deposits if the water rises due to a power...

Some have mentioned their HD/Lowes having the material to make it, but mine never has, and I just looked around in the phone book under plastics and found someone who would cut me the appropriate pieces per my instructions for my needs.

You never really absolutely need a sump, but you can always have a sump. It's most likely not worth it on a 29, but if you have the ability to do it, it wouldn't hurt as long as it is setup well. You'd also be increasing your water volume, which never hurts. But there are a lot of potential...

I would post about this in the disease forum. Someone there might be able to give better advice on if treatment is needed if there are no fish in the aquarium, and whether or not something else in the tank could host a parasite.

I second on the air water ice, however, as many people do not bother with the fast flush and such, (up to you) you could get away with the slightly less expensive typhoon. The III has the extra little features to try and extend the life of your membrane (which i used to be good about a few...

What is the temperature of your system without any heaters? You only need enough heat to keep the tank from dropping too much at night (and kind of keep a steady temperature. I don't like using heaters unless there are 2 layers of protection (the built-in temperature control, and a controller...

Beth, Terry: Well. been a long time since this post was active, but wanted to update and ask a question on this same purple tang. He is still alive and doing great (3 years later), but hasn't grown very much (he has grown a little it seems)... This and a few other fish are all that made it...

Are you planning on having a sandbed? If so, the bacteria on the sand bed and rocks should be sufficient. Many people have problems with bioballs in the reef/fowlr setup with nitrates. I removed mine several years ago about 3-4 weeks after setting up the tanka and reading around on the...

I would imagine that both of the views are probably correct. It just depends on how you look at it. If the skimmate is collected quickly (wetskimming) then you should get a lot of waste, but also a lot of water(compared to dry skimming) with it. If you dry skim, then you wouldn't get as much...

We had a wonderful powder brown a while back and his favorite food when we first got him was flake. You may want to try a variety of foods and see what the fish is most interested in. Along with any suggestions that Beth comes back with regarding any potential diseases. That's my only input...

Might want to try some water changes and carbon.

With regards to first corals. There is something to be said for going 'easy' with mushrooms, zoanthids, and xenia, however, a difficult problem can be what to do with them once you decide to move on to acros or some other type of coral. Alhough many people have mixed tanks, many also move...