10 Gallon Sump Saga

[mcmasterson]

I am looking for an overflow for my sump/refug/skimmer build. I have read on here that lifereef has a stellar product. I have also read that some people say the eshopps U tube type is just as good. eshopps is half the price so it seems like a no brainer. I just was wondering if anyone has used both or used the eshopps and has had nothing but solid performance and no flooding out of it.
I will pay the extra but if eshopps performs the exact same as the lifereef, then why spend the extra dough?

 

[shrimpy brains]

I can't answer your question, but I would reccomend you have the tank drilled. That is your best chance at not having flood problems and shouldn't cost more than those u-tube thingy's!

 

[btldreef]

As far as HOB overflows, the best option is a CPR.
I have an Eshoppes, it was fine, but it did get clogged, that CPR does not do that.

 

[saxman]

Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///forum/thread/381467/eshopps-vs-lifereef-overflow#post_3323141
As far as HOB overflows, the best option is a CPR.
I have an Eshoppes, it was fine, but it did get clogged, that CPR does not do that.
The CPR types are too sketchy IMO...they won't hold a siphon unless you add the optional "aqualifter" pump. If you can't drill the tank, I'd recommend the U-tube type. All you have to do is check the tube when you do your regular tank checks. Before I began using drilled setups, I ran a U-tube type for several years without one single flood or broken siphon.
We all have our preferences, but IMO, simple is better.

 

[mcmasterson]

I have an acrylic tank so i probably wont be doing any drilling on it. I have been doing a lot of reading and have come to the conclusion the U-tube is the safest option vs. CPR. I have read several reviews about the CPR types causing flooding as you have to rely on the aqualifter to always be working.
I spent a few hours reading the various forums online last night and read that while eshopps is a good option for overflow, i found a few people that said they had a few battles with air bubbles forming. I wasnt able to find a single bad review on the lifereef overflow. I went ahead and opted for the slimline lifereef today. It did cost more, but piece of mind is worth the extra $50 since i was able to find some unhappy customers with eshopps product.
The owner of lifereef, Jeff, was a world of knowledge! While i didnt go with his custom sump build, he did spend about 15 minutes on the phone with me with recommendations on how to go about building my new 10 gallon sump. I would highly recommend his company for any sump needs you might have based on his excellent customer service.
Thanks for all the input

 

[saxman]

Funny...acrylic is REALLY EZ to drill, but Life Reef has indeed been in the biz forever.

 

[mcmasterson]

I figure it is easier in terms of the actual drilling, but doesnt drilling acylic make the overall strength of the aquarium get reduced?
I just know overtime the acrylic tends to warp and bend and i thought the more holes in it the less strength it has?

 

[saxman]

We've never had any issues with that due to holes.
Our 50 gal pent had about 7 or 8 holes in it, our 100W has 7 holes PLUS a 1/2" slot to feed the external O/F box, our new 187 gal has 8 holes in the tank and two in the O/F box. However, many acrylic tanks are built on the thin side due to the cost of materials, and they tend to "bow" a bit over time, holes or no holes. We had our 187 (84" x 24" x 24") made from 3/4" stock just for that reason...we never wanted it to bow, ever.

 

[mcmasterson]

I have a 46 gallon sea clear acrylic tank. I think it is pretty thick.
I know mine already has a slot in the back for HOB filters and such. Also has two cut outs in the middle too.
is it feasible to cut them in an established tank? I definitely dont want to empty the tank. I need an option to keep the livestock inside. I also have no idea how high or low to drill the outlet and inlets.
I only have a 10 gallon for my sump which is getting a mag 7 pump and tunze 9002 skimmer and the balance area for a refugium.

 

[acrylic51]

Acrylic does absorb water, but if the tank was properly built with the correct thickness of material, then "NO" it won't have the tendency to warp and bend.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmasterson http:///forum/thread/381467/eshopps-vs-lifereef-overflow#post_3323511
I figure it is easier in terms of the actual drilling, but doesnt drilling acylic make the overall strength of the aquarium get reduced?
I just know overtime the acrylic tends to warp and bend and i thought the more holes in it the less strength it has?
Can you take a pic of your tank in question??? Drilling the acrylic tank would be easy as Saxman had stated.....Besides on a 46 gallon tank wouldn't need to drill tons of holes in the tank. Of the top of my head it would just need 1 bulkhead to take the water to the sump. You could get fancy and drill the tank for water returns, but there are other options for returns.....JMHO!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmasterson http:///forum/thread/381467/eshopps-vs-lifereef-overflow#post_3323529
I have a 46 gallon sea clear acrylic tank. I think it is pretty thick.
I know mine already has a slot in the back for HOB filters and such. Also has two cut outs in the middle too.
is it feasible to cut them in an established tank? I definitely dont want to empty the tank. I need an option to keep the livestock inside. I also have no idea how high or low to drill the outlet and inlets.
I only have a 10 gallon for my sump which is getting a mag 7 pump and tunze 9002 skimmer and the balance area for a refugium.

 

[mcmasterson]

Here are a couple pictures, as you can see the GHA is out of control and i need a skimmer going asap

Top of Aquarium

Front of Aquarium

 

[saxman]

I agree with Shawn...you could lower the water level, drill for a 1" BH in the back (use an external standpipe with a T-vent), drill another hole in the top plate similar to the hole for the heater, and use a couple of U-tubes with directional returns over the back and thru those two holes. If you want to get fancy, use a SCWD to alternate the flow between them.

 

[acrylic51]

Again, I would drill the back as suggested 1" bulkhead using the external stand pipe as Saxman had suggested, and you could drill on each end of the back (left & right) 3/4" bulkheads for your returns and use the SCWD as suggested or something a little simpler, you could get movable eyeball bulkheads and return the water that way as well!!!! Basic, sharp holesaw bit is all you'd need to drill the tank.

 

[mcmasterson]

The only issue is i cant drill anything into the back as the tank is too close to the wall and i dont feel like draining and moving it.
Would drilling one of the sides work just the same?
Also how high up would you make the hole for the bulk head? I assume that would make some difference, right?
Thanks so much for the suggestions! I am beginning to believe i should have drilled. still can of course but need to return the overflow and make sure i do it right!

 

[acrylic51]

Yes drilling the side would work just the same. You would drill the bulkhead as high as possible, but not on the very edge. I still think you would benefit from an overflow box inside the tank for better surface skimming but can be done with a bulkhead and some PVC and a fitting as well.

 

[mcmasterson]

I have been searching for ideas how to make the drilling work. So you are saying it would be best to have an overflow on the inside of the tank to service the bulkhead?
I see that as a detriment to scarce space inside the tank. I thought using the bulkhead would eliminate the need for the overflow. I understand the principle of needing one to help skim the surface, but i assume there is a way to just use the PVC pipe drilled into the side w/o a BH?
I purchased a Tunze 9002 skimmer for my sump and it is in transit now to me, but i assume a 1in PVC filling the sump will suffice for the small skimmer i have.
So if i dont opt for an internal overflow, do i just drill the hole and slap the bulkhead in? Or what goes on the inside part of the tank to regulate water flow?
Thanks

 

[acrylic51]

No you don't have to have an overflow inside the tank. It just would just be more efficient that's all.

 

[saxman]

You could always add the O/F OUTSIDE the tank (I love this arrangement):

 

[mcmasterson]

Ok, so if the overflow is outside the tank, then isnt that the same idea as using the lifereef overflow and just running the line from that to the sump? With the picture you have above wouldnt you need to have the drain line hooked up directly to the outside overflow? Essentially the same idea as the lifereef?
I have a feeling I am missing something though.
Thanks for the continued comments.

 

[saxman]

What you're missing is that there is no internal O/F at all...there's only a 1/2" wide slot in the back of the tank which feeds the external box. In the box, there are twin Durso-style standpipes. All you see are the two returns from the main pump on each side because there's nothing else to see.
The tank looks like this from the front..."look ma, no box in the tank."