S
spsaddict
Guest
just your friendly neighborhood "bump" for a most beautiful tank
54 gallon bowfront corner mixed reef profile
- Thread starter brooklyn johnny
- Start date
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Hey Ryan... I'd recommend a kalk reactor on any tank... The benefits of kalk are huge, and being able to deliver them in such a simple way, while at the same time having autotopoff, is a great advantage.
One thing I would recommend and recommend for all is a pH monitor. Being able to continuosly monitor pH on any tank is important, but even moreso on a tank where kalk is being used. I can go into this more if you like, but suffice it to say spend the ~$80 on a Pinpint pH monitor and you will be happy with it.
I currently have my Nilsen on my 65 gallon/20 gallon frag setup and it is in conjunction with a calcium reactor. I add 6 level tablespoons a week to the Nilsen. This is enough to keep the pH up in the tank, which tuns low due to the calcium reactor. When I setup the one on the corner tank I will need to look more closely at the amount I add because that will be the sole method of delivering calcium and alk to the tank.
If you do get one it is best to tune it to the uptake of the tank, which can take some time at first. Having B-ionic, or any other 2 part additive is important at first in order to get levels to where you want them and fine tune them. It's no exact science, BUT KEEP IN MIND THE MAJOR LIMITING FACTOR TO ADDING TOO MUCH KALK IS pH SPIKE. Therefore the pH meter is important. An immediate pH change of up to .2 (ex. 8.0 to 8.2) is acceptable. Remember to tune your kalk reactor to either drip or send a very fine stream into the tank, with again the limiting factor being pH change.
If you have more Q's just ask...
Johnny
One thing I would recommend and recommend for all is a pH monitor. Being able to continuosly monitor pH on any tank is important, but even moreso on a tank where kalk is being used. I can go into this more if you like, but suffice it to say spend the ~$80 on a Pinpint pH monitor and you will be happy with it.
I currently have my Nilsen on my 65 gallon/20 gallon frag setup and it is in conjunction with a calcium reactor. I add 6 level tablespoons a week to the Nilsen. This is enough to keep the pH up in the tank, which tuns low due to the calcium reactor. When I setup the one on the corner tank I will need to look more closely at the amount I add because that will be the sole method of delivering calcium and alk to the tank.
If you do get one it is best to tune it to the uptake of the tank, which can take some time at first. Having B-ionic, or any other 2 part additive is important at first in order to get levels to where you want them and fine tune them. It's no exact science, BUT KEEP IN MIND THE MAJOR LIMITING FACTOR TO ADDING TOO MUCH KALK IS pH SPIKE. Therefore the pH meter is important. An immediate pH change of up to .2 (ex. 8.0 to 8.2) is acceptable. Remember to tune your kalk reactor to either drip or send a very fine stream into the tank, with again the limiting factor being pH change.
If you have more Q's just ask...
Johnny
rkm
Member
Man you are a big help. I want to set up an auto top off system. The problem being is that the RO DI unit will be 40 feet away from the tank. I was trying to figure out a way to hook up the RODI put in a holding tank, and then have it pumped over to the tank/Kalk reactor for top off's. My basement is finished off. I have a drop celing so the line would not be to hard. Just figuring a way to push the water 40 feet through a small line might be the hard part.
How about a small condinsate pump from a AC unit on a float switch?
Ohh and I will buy a PH meter.... I want to get this going. The reactor I am using is from Pro Clear Aquatics. I hope it will do the trick.
How about a small condinsate pump from a AC unit on a float switch?
Ohh and I will buy a PH meter.... I want to get this going. The reactor I am using is from Pro Clear Aquatics. I hope it will do the trick.
sparky0028
Member
Brooklyn Johhny
Great tank, awesome colors and corals. If you don't mind I have some questions. How do you know when you should start to drip kalk or is better and easier to use a reactor instead, also can you use a kalk reactor withou a calcium reactor. Space is limited and I would like to keep more sps corals.
Thanks
Sparky
Great tank, awesome colors and corals. If you don't mind I have some questions. How do you know when you should start to drip kalk or is better and easier to use a reactor instead, also can you use a kalk reactor withou a calcium reactor. Space is limited and I would like to keep more sps corals.
Thanks
Sparky
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Ryan I have my Nilsen hooked up using a float switch, with the makeup water in a five gallon rubbermaid trash can. I'm sure you know this, but many people hook up their topoff straight to their RO unit which is a big nono. Float switches fail, and if mine does only about two or three extra gallons (at the most) will go into the tank, which is no problem. I carry water over from the sink daily, which is a small price to pay for having the peace of mind knowing that my tank will not be toast if my float fails...
Sparky on my corner tank I will run a Nilsen (kalk) reactor alone, while on my other system I run the Nilsen with the calcium reactor. Using a Nilsen reactor and dripping kalk essentially achieving the same result, while the Nilsen reactor is much more convenient. I would recommend one of these on any tank. As to when you need to make the step to a calcium reactor that's personal and tough to say. A tank with just a few sps will be fine on a Nilsen, however with a full tank load you will probably want a calcium reactor. Calcium reactors are never 100% necessary, as I've seen fully stocked tanks run just on B-ionic, yet the dosing schedule was crazy. Basically we all have different points where we will get fed up to the point where we'll invest in a reactor, if you know what I mean...
Hope that helps...
Sparky on my corner tank I will run a Nilsen (kalk) reactor alone, while on my other system I run the Nilsen with the calcium reactor. Using a Nilsen reactor and dripping kalk essentially achieving the same result, while the Nilsen reactor is much more convenient. I would recommend one of these on any tank. As to when you need to make the step to a calcium reactor that's personal and tough to say. A tank with just a few sps will be fine on a Nilsen, however with a full tank load you will probably want a calcium reactor. Calcium reactors are never 100% necessary, as I've seen fully stocked tanks run just on B-ionic, yet the dosing schedule was crazy. Basically we all have different points where we will get fed up to the point where we'll invest in a reactor, if you know what I mean...
Hope that helps...
sparky0028
Member
Thanks Brooklyn Johhny
I have been looking at diy plans for a reactor and lit ooks like the way to go. Do you you think a SpectraPure Liter Meter will work and keep up with daily evaporation and supply the reactor with enough ro water.
I have been looking at diy plans for a reactor and lit ooks like the way to go. Do you you think a SpectraPure Liter Meter will work and keep up with daily evaporation and supply the reactor with enough ro water.
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Hey guys sorry for the delay... I was in Hawaii for work (Sub base in Pearl) and the wife and I went to the Big Island after for some vacay in Kona... man if I could have taken frags...
Anyway... I'll post some more pics...
Sparky, if you want to list your e-mail I'll give the exact specs on equipment I use and where I got it...
Neowind I have no pictures regrettably when I set it up. The best advice I can ever give regarding setup is use the largest pieces of live rock and avoid the "uniform pile of rocks" look... I have a higher than average bioload, but I've always run that in my systems with no problem. Lots of live rock, good live sand, refugium, good protein skimmer, and religious maintenance habits combine for an ability to push the envelope a bit more. Mind you the two tangs I have in the 54 are not there long term, as our house will be ready late this year where I will get the 180 going again, and as mentioned my dream tank in a couple of years as money allows. This WILL happen though, as I'm already having the builder put in $2,900 in additions just for the big tank. My wife and I are just 26 though and are going from 700 square feet to 2950, and I'm thinking the furniture for the entire house will cost almost as much as my dream tank
. I'm still devising a strategy of how to break the expendetures down to the wife . Anyway...
Mr. Tuna... Believe me I thought about the 92. Congratulations on having that awesome tank. These corners should be more popular IMO, as they allow for truly awesome reef setups...
viet-tin thanks... where are you in Hawaii? Living there would be sweet but I'd die without my reef tanks...
Anyway to the pics... here's a better shot of my three babies...
Anyway... I'll post some more pics...
Sparky, if you want to list your e-mail I'll give the exact specs on equipment I use and where I got it...
Neowind I have no pictures regrettably when I set it up. The best advice I can ever give regarding setup is use the largest pieces of live rock and avoid the "uniform pile of rocks" look... I have a higher than average bioload, but I've always run that in my systems with no problem. Lots of live rock, good live sand, refugium, good protein skimmer, and religious maintenance habits combine for an ability to push the envelope a bit more. Mind you the two tangs I have in the 54 are not there long term, as our house will be ready late this year where I will get the 180 going again, and as mentioned my dream tank in a couple of years as money allows. This WILL happen though, as I'm already having the builder put in $2,900 in additions just for the big tank. My wife and I are just 26 though and are going from 700 square feet to 2950, and I'm thinking the furniture for the entire house will cost almost as much as my dream tank
. I'm still devising a strategy of how to break the expendetures down to the wife . Anyway...Mr. Tuna... Believe me I thought about the 92. Congratulations on having that awesome tank. These corners should be more popular IMO, as they allow for truly awesome reef setups...
viet-tin thanks... where are you in Hawaii? Living there would be sweet but I'd die without my reef tanks...
Anyway to the pics... here's a better shot of my three babies...
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Good shot of two of the three squamapinnis anthias... the male is the red towards the front...
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Better shot of one of the females...
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Best shot I've got of my yashia white ray shrimp goby...
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Blackcap basslet eating my cleaner shrimp... ... in reality it's a good example of cleaning behavior...
... in reality it's a good example of cleaning behavior...
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Scarlet hermit on Acropora yongei... one of the most popular acros know as the "green slimer"
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
A nice shot showing the left of the tank...
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Last pic for now... this really shows how corners are made for this tank... it's nice because both couches have different but equal views of the tank... Anyway I'll update soon as I picked up a bunch more wild zoanthid colonies today... Enjoy!!
sparky0028
Member
Great shots and two great tanks. I am in the process of gathering material for a kalk reactor and I have a few questions if you don't mind. How do you know how muck kalk to put in the reactor, the more you put in the higher the saturation is and the more will go into the tank. Won't this cause the alk, ca and ph to be too high or am I missing something. I realize I am going to need a PH meter to know when to fill the reactor but I am confused on the amount.
Thanks again for your help.
Thanks again for your help.
brooklyn johnny
Active Member
Sparky, every tank is different and so are it's requirements. The simple way is to start with less and work your way up as you test water over time and fine tune the amount you need for your system. If you drip kalk you will have a good idea of where to start. As I said before the main worry in the short term is the change in pH the reactor causes when it adds kalk water. My reactor adds water in a slow stream, just beyond a fast drip, when the float turns on. Do not allow more than a .2 fluctuation in pH in a short period of time. If you surpass this, just turn the flow into the tank back. Depending on how sensitive your float switch is, a very small amount of water will be added at a time, so this won't be a problem. If calcium and alkalinity readings went too high this would be over a longer period, and a regimen of weekly testing would spot this before it became a problem.
It's no exact science. Start with a small amount and test every couple of days, increasing the amount you add slowly while keeping an eye on your ph.
You could also vary the time that the kalk powder is mixed within the reactor. I currently do mine at 6 times a day for a half hour.
Neowind I have just about exactly 50 lbs of a nice rock I found locally that I think is from Vanuatu. It's very porous, which is good for the tank and the pocketbook, so it appears as more. I've always bought rock locally, as you may save a few dollars online but the added expense is worth it when you're able to cherry pick. About 40 lbs of it is from three major rocks that make up the majority of the structure. Larger rocks not only allow for better aquascaping, but fill more space.
It's no exact science. Start with a small amount and test every couple of days, increasing the amount you add slowly while keeping an eye on your ph.
You could also vary the time that the kalk powder is mixed within the reactor. I currently do mine at 6 times a day for a half hour.
Neowind I have just about exactly 50 lbs of a nice rock I found locally that I think is from Vanuatu. It's very porous, which is good for the tank and the pocketbook, so it appears as more. I've always bought rock locally, as you may save a few dollars online but the added expense is worth it when you're able to cherry pick. About 40 lbs of it is from three major rocks that make up the majority of the structure. Larger rocks not only allow for better aquascaping, but fill more space.